tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-42199581253892655462024-03-21T08:17:58.521-05:002StoryProps2Story Propshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08842638503613162138noreply@blogger.comBlogger70125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4219958125389265546.post-13729510734099072872016-09-24T22:05:00.000-05:002016-09-24T22:05:30.388-05:00Mark Watney Part 2: The Torso<p>Most of the costumes I have built typically consist of a few notable pieces that could fit anybody. For example, a proton pack is effectively one size fits all, and a mau5 head is nominally 14” wide. The torso presented a very unique challenge because it had to fit me just right, and the only way I could do that was it would physically need to be designed and built around me.</p>
<p><center><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/29264562672/in/album-72157665406897591/" title="DSCN9048_edit"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8855/29264562672_6f78aa3059.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN9048_edit"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center></p>
<p>Since I can’t wear a prop and work on it at the same time, I finally had an excuse to use the duct tape mannequin David and I made back in 2014. Using duct tape, I created a general outline of where the armor would cover my chest, then transferred the pattern to poster board so I could make it symmetrical and try a test fit. Once satisfied with the poster board mock up, the pattern was transferred to styrene and glued around the mannequin. Note that the mannequin has been covered with plastic wrap to prevent damage to the fabric.</p>
<p><center><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/27153630885/in/album-72157665406897591/" title="DSC01624"><img src="https://c6.staticflickr.com/8/7009/27153630885_e56877eb16.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="DSC01624"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/27058460502/in/album-72157665406897591/" title="DSC01637"><img src="https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7779/27058460502_faf195e896.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="DSC01637"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/26879359690/in/album-72157665406897591/" title="DSC01643"><img src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7634/26879359690_db6c646a31.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC01643"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p></center>
<p>The next part was very tedious, and while I’m sure someone has a better way to do this it got the job done and I am very happy with the result. Using various thicknesses of styrene left over from my R2-D2 build, I started building up layers of plastic on the torso to replicate the shape of the screen used one based on images I taped to my wall. Each layer was given thickness by gluing strips of thicker plastic as supports and then covering it with thinner plastic. Panels were cut based on how the plastic needed to bend. Additional shape and rigidity were added by filling the edges with ApoxieSculpt</p>
<p><center><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/27085272071/in/album-72157665406897591/" title="DSC01654"><img src="https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7149/27085272071_b436c2178c.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC01654"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/27058377722/in/album-72157665406897591/" title="DSC01667"><img src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7600/27058377722_2438899921.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC01667"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/26879303820/in/album-72157665406897591/" title="DSC01670"><img src="https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7675/26879303820_53501d373d.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC01670"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
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<p>At this stage I couldn’t do any more sculpting on this form as the plastic was too thin to be carved and I needed to access the inside. After carefully removing the structure from the mannequin, and molded the whole thing in Rebound 40. The mold is actually 1 piece with a seam in the back, which minimizes clean up, plus I could mold the whole thing at once. With the mold done I made two castings. One was used for fit check (it fit!) and the other was refined into the final sculpt. The placement of the back pack mount was fixed, recessed areas created, and the panel lines were carved in using wood carving tools. There entire torso was then molded with a Rebound 25 base coat to allow stretch in the recessed areas, then a Rebound 40 over coat to help hold the shape.</p>
<p><center><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/26547687804/in/album-72157665406897591/" title="DSC01703"><img src="https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7562/26547687804_345ccb6b07.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC01703"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/27085049011/in/album-72157665406897591/" title="DSC01743"><img src="https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7617/27085049011_139ab9d08b.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC01743"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/27153283135/in/album-72157665406897591/" title="DSC01784"><img src="https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7001/27153283135_7c56c2b037.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC01784"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/26548770673/in/album-72157665406897591/" title="DSC01787"><img src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7797/26548770673_d0fc06f483.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC01787"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p></center>
<p>The torso is cast like the helmet from EpoxACoat, Freeform Air, and EpoxAMite with glass cloth. In order for the front and back halves to line up, I need to add alignment tabs. When the casting was pulled from the mold, I cut the front/back seams on the right side only. I then covered the front half of the seam with clear tape, and added several layers of resin and cloth over the whole area. Because the resin won’t adhere to the tape, when I cut the left side to two halves easily separated. The two halves were re-clamped using the right side and the same process was used to make the left side tabs. The two halves are held together via snaps and elastic bands.</p>
<p><center><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/27120207386/in/album-72157665406897591/" title="DSC01849"><img src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7520/27120207386_8b6259ca71.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="DSC01849"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/29908386445/in/dateposted-public/" title="DSC02087"><img src="https://c6.staticflickr.com/9/8054/29908386445_2abfbc0815.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC02087"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p></center>
<p> The back pack sculpt was considerably more traditional. I made a positive using foam and MDF, then a one part Rebound 25 mold. Note that you can see the seam line for the camera arm. Because the width of the dremmel cut off wheel is larger than the seam, I had to cast the full pack, then cast just the arm so I cut on the correct side of the line and end up with both pieces. The back of the torso was trimmed out, and the back pack was permanently joined to the torso using several layers of fiberglass and bondo to blend to the two together. The interior of the camera arm was built up using plywood and styrene.</p>
<p><center><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/27153408335/in/album-72157665406897591/" title="DSC01728"><img src="https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7484/27153408335_518802c5c3.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC01728"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/26547589264/in/album-72157665406897591/" title="DSC01763"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7680/26547589264_d8f0b70d75.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC01763"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/27914489583/in/album-72157665406897591/" title="DSC01946"><img src="https://c8.staticflickr.com/9/8591/27914489583_6d836c943b.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC01946"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/28452671991/in/album-72157665406897591/" title="DSC01891"><img src="https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7665/28452671991_f116763e47.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="DSC01891"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p></center>
<p>On the film costume, there is a duct system behind Matt Damon’s head that pumps air into the helmet. On my suit, this was accomplished with two squirrel fans, each of which is connected to a ¾” air hose. This set up works really well and actually makes the suit colder with the helmet on that with the helmet off! In addition to the squirrel fans, the pack houses two 12V li-ion batteries and the dimmer for the helmet. All the lights and the fans are controlled via three button switches that Velcro to the front of the suit. I can easily access them with my gloved left hand.</p>
<p><center><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/28557124262/in/album-72157665406897591/" title="DSC02015"><img src="https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8779/28557124262_e1d2455d61.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC02015"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/28046435684/in/album-72157665406897591/" title="DSC02005"><img src="https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8657/28046435684_a4283b6c8a.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC02005"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/28452922471/in/album-72157665406897591/" title="DSC_1537"><img src="https://c8.staticflickr.com/9/8057/28452922471_9c14ef224e.jpg" width="281" height="500" alt="DSC_1537"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/29281940953/in/dateposted-public/" title="DSC02088"><img src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8554/29281940953_322035e9a5.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC02088"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p></center>
<p>As for greeblies, David laser cut the connector on the chest and I sculpted the lever from wood and plastic, then cast in resin. The two knobs are actually parts from the wand on a proton pack! The buckels were attached with Velcro and will be discussed in detail in part 4.</p>
<p><center><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/28047219023/in/album-72157665406897591/" title="DSC02027"><img src="https://c8.staticflickr.com/9/8014/28047219023_7acd62ace9.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC02027"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/28047212033/in/album-72157665406897591/" title="DSC02029"><img src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8720/28047212033_1343c238e0.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="DSC02029"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
</center>
<p>With all the electronics figured out it was time to paint. All the paint on the torso is Krylon paint. For graphics, I decided to make them myself using power point. Yes, you read that right, power point. All the labels you see on the torso were drawn up using power point then printed on Testor’s clear water slide decal paper, then applied to the torso. I also put my name in one of the labels because why not? The “ARES III” and the “2”s were cut from vinyl at Maker’s Local 256. The entire thing was clear coated and weathered with acrylic like the helmet.</p>
<p><center><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/28424741822/in/album-72157665406897591/" title="DSC_1559"><img src="https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8816/28424741822_0f96f569d9.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="DSC_1559"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/28452853121/in/album-72157665406897591/" title="DSC_1585"><img src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8510/28452853121_ed09bf8321.jpg" width="281" height="500" alt="DSC_1585"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/29042871210/in/album-72157665406897591/" title="14138491_10100335887286763_576436231_n"><img src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8288/29042871210_7c481be9f5.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="14138491_10100335887286763_576436231_n"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/29372703065/in/album-72157665406897591/" title="DSCN9023_edit"><img src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8520/29372703065_fb6a05f341.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN9023_edit"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/29372695625/in/album-72157665406897591/" title="DSCN9025_edit"><img src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8248/29372695625_2dc87754f4.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN9025_edit"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/28751339163/in/album-72157665406897591/" title="DSCN9046_edit"><img src="https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7530/28751339163_ee3af7b948.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="DSCN9046_edit"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/29085197730/in/album-72157665406897591/" title="DSCN9060_edit"><img src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8048/29085197730_c67dd9e1ac.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="DSCN9060_edit"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p></center>
<p>Typically, if the costume has gloves I don’t get to take pictures at conventions while I am in them because I physically cannot operate a camera. Watney has an interesting solution to this as the costume is designed with a GoPro on the costume. I went with accuracy and purchased the same model of camera and case used in the film. I am still playing with settings (straight recording vs time lapse) but one notable gain was the ability to record the masquerade skit from my perspective.</p>
<p><center><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="270" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/--P8epCtaVo" width="480"></iframe></p></center>
<p>Next week I’ll cover the remaining armor pieces, and then we will follow that up with the soft goods. Stay tuned!</p>
<p> To stay up to date with our other projects, be sure to like out collaborative page<a href="https://www.facebook.com/2StoryProps/"> 2StoryProps</a> and my personal page <a href="https://www.facebook.com/A7LProps/">A7L Props</a> on Facebook! </p>
<p>For more build pictures, visit the flickr album <a href=”https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/albums/72157665406897591”> here.</a></p>
<p>Thanks for reading!</p>
<p>-Wayne</p>
Waynehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00037588568914291925noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4219958125389265546.post-25589333909868833202016-09-14T18:51:00.001-05:002016-09-14T18:51:51.972-05:00Mark Watney Part 1: The Helmet<p>While The Force Awakens was great, my favorite movie of 2015, and in my top 5 of all time is The Martian, which is a story of how Mark Watney uses math, science, and ingenuity to survive after being stranded on Mars. I read the book in July that year and made all my friends go see the film on my birthday as the opening was the same weekend. The film was amazing and I knew what my next costume project was going to be. This was a very labor intensive project with many separate components, so I’m going to split the buildup into its various components. We’ll start off with the helmet and work our way down.</p>
<p><center><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/29372659675/in/album-72157665406897591/" title="DSCN9057_edit"><img src="https://c4.staticflickr.com/9/8087/29372659675_c55bfb0eb8.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="DSCN9057_edit"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p></center>
<p>When the movie came out, AMC theaters was raffling off 5 “replicas” of Watney’s helmet. Lucky for me, a friend of mine was one of the winners, so I had a reference I could hold and feel. Additionally, Captain April on the RPF created a 3D model and PDF file of the side view of the helmet. Using the PDF I created a MDF skeleton, then a base sculpt with pink insulation. The shape was sealed with EpoxACoat then smoothed with Bondo. Since the helmet has a visor I built up an edge using .04” styrene to ensure the lip that the visor would sit on was a uniform thickness. Using some of David’s carving tools, I etched the panel lines in and the outline of the recessed areas.</p>
<p><center><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/26547516174/in/album-72157665406897591/" title="DSC01856"><img src="https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7594/26547516174_4f00f5d2ae.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC01856"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/26548752443/in/album-72157665406897591/" title="DSC01854"><img src="https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7472/26548752443_f41a248297.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC01854"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/27120197296/in/album-72157665406897591/" title="DSC01855"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7348/27120197296_7845b6d7a4.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC01855"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/28424510522/in/album-72157665406897591/" title="DSC01882"><img src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8797/28424510522_5589bb2301.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC01882"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p></center>
<p>At this point I needed a hollow casting to finish sculpting and the buck for the visor, so I made a mold and pulled 2 castings. One casting was reinforced with expanding and sanded down to become the vacuum forming buck. The main visor was then pulled from 0.09” PETG.</p>
<p><center><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/28452903381/in/album-72157665406897591/" title="DSC_1540"><img src="https://c6.staticflickr.com/9/8676/28452903381_9219894c78.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="DSC_1540"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
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<p> The other casting was refined into the final positive. The neck ring was added, the gas ports on the back integrated, and the head lamp mounts and recessed areas added. Molding was a bit different than all our previous helmets. Instead of making the neck hole the opening in the mold, I made the visor area the opening the access point. A single piece mold was made using Rebound 25 and a EpoxACoat/EpoxAMite mold jacket.</p>
<center></p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/28246623650/in/album-72157665406897591/" title="DSC01958"><img src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8585/28246623650_d493015756.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC01958"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/28498373506/in/album-72157665406897591/" title="DSC01961"><img src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8798/28498373506_0f313efcfc.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC01961"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/28246588320/in/album-72157665406897591/" title="DSC01977"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8040/28246588320_74292f2924.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC01977"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p></center>
<p>The helmet casting is made with 2 layers of EpoxAmite, then FreeForm Air is added to all the corners where the fabric would have trouble bending. Two layers of EpoxAmite and fabric were added and allowed to cure for an evening. The result was a strong but light weight casting. Clean up was very minimal, but before painting I had to figure out how to physically wear the helmet. The method I got to work was to use a face shield head band. The pivots bolt into the side of the casting and the portion that would normally hold the visor was trimmed and attaches to the back of the helmet with one screw. The buck for the inner visor was made like the helmet using foam, EpoxAmite, and bondo for the buck and 0.09” PETG for the pull. It was then painted on the inside with gold paint.</p>
<p><center><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/28498303056/in/album-72157665406897591/" title="DSC01989"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7572/28498303056_9fdfd400d9.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC01989"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/28452547381/in/album-72157665406897591/" title="DSC01986"><img src="https://c6.staticflickr.com/9/8793/28452547381_5e6632f0f3.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC01986"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/28452511051/in/album-72157665406897591/" title="DSC02002"><img src="https://c4.staticflickr.com/9/8309/28452511051_61ca7e99db.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC02002"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/28530630475/in/album-72157665406897591/" title="DSC_1609"><img src="https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7581/28530630475_ce26b54c5f.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="DSC_1609"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p></center>
<p>The head lamps were sculpted using MDF and PVC. The sculpts were molded and roto cast in SmoothCast 65D so they would be hallow. A small pen light was dissected and the lighting element added with a wire going into the helmet.</p>
<p><center><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/28246696750/in/album-72157665406897591/" title="DSC01886"><img src="https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8446/28246696750_94ef979d99.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC01886"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/27914381483/in/album-72157665406897591/" title="DSC01991"><img src="https://c4.staticflickr.com/9/8761/27914381483_c8dabb0b47.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC01991"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center></p>
<p>The helmet was painted with Krylon paints, except the blue which is DupliColor Bahama Blue Met . The decals were printed at a local sign shop on vinyl using a PDF file Captain April posted on the RPF. After applying the decals, the helmet was weathered with Burnt Sienna acrylic paint.</p>
<p><center><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/28498647366/in/album-72157665406897591/" title="DSC_1623"><img src="https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7528/28498647366_eb3c4f8233.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="DSC_1623"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/28498577396/in/album-72157665406897591/" title="DSC_1639"><img src="https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8645/28498577396_0a35f513b0.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="DSC_1639"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/28498583936/in/album-72157665406897591/" title="DSC_1638"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8857/28498583936_a623a51b54.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="DSC_1638"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/29264597282/in/album-72157665406897591/" title="DSCN9021_edit"><img src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8227/29264597282_a7a9c84a06.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN9021_edit"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/29330370655/in/album-72157665406897591/" title="14111924_10100335887301733_2000371682_n"><img src="https://c8.staticflickr.com/9/8368/29330370655_fab907dcbc.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="14111924_10100335887301733_2000371682_n"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/29085232080/in/album-72157665406897591/" title="DSCN9054_edit"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8409/29085232080_9d50f07e6c.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN9054_edit"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p></center>
<p>The inner lights are self-adhesive amber LED strip. The led strips and the lamps run to a 3 cable servo wire, which plugs into wiring in the torso section. I’ll cover more of that in part 2 of the Watney write up, so stay tuned!</p>
<p> To stay up to date with our other projects, be sure to like out collaborative page<a href="https://www.facebook.com/2StoryProps/"> 2StoryProps</a> and my personal page <a href="https://www.facebook.com/A7LProps/">A7L Props</a> on Facebook! </p>
<p>For more build pictures, visit the flickr album <a href=”https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/albums/72157665406897591”> here.</a></p>
<p>Thanks for reading!</p>
<p>-Wayne</p>
Waynehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00037588568914291925noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4219958125389265546.post-24105561696191000052016-05-23T21:43:00.000-05:002016-05-25T06:54:30.581-05:00BB-8<p>BB-8 was a bit of a reluctant project for me. During the lead up to The Force Awakens I was busy finishing up my R2-D2 and by October I was already starting to work on Mark Watney from The Martian. However, a few components were undergoing runs when the movie came out, and seeing how the project would be a fun engineering challenge I started to work on my own BB-8.</p>
<p><center><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/27137284201/in/dateposted-public/" title="DSCN8612_edit"><img src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7283/27137284201_b36a5ea471.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN8612_edit"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center></p>
<p>Much like the R2 Builders Club, a BB-8 builders club started up pretty much right after the first trailer. There was a lot of discussion about the design, and most importantly the development of 3D models of BB-8’s head and side panels. My friend Daniel printed one of the heads and gave it to me as a birthday present. While most builders have been finishing the 3D prints, I found the print to be heavy and prone to pealing, so I decided to mold it and cast a copy in fiberglass. The result is much stronger and less than half the weight of the printed model! The remaining parts were molded and cast in SmoothCast 300. Everything was painted with Krylon paints.</p>
<p><center><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/26546125954/in/album-72157667505878755/" title="DSC01430"><img src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7404/26546125954_e9f5903947.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC01430"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/27151727225/in/album-72157667505878755/" title="DSC01455"><img src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7159/27151727225_cf7137f194.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC01455"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/27118623356/in/album-72157667505878755/" title="DSC01475"><img src="https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7550/27118623356_aa1e55a1fe.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC01475"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/27118359656/in/album-72157667505878755/" title="DSC01602"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7147/27118359656_ec0598fb48.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC01602"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/27083073901/in/album-72157667505878755/" title="DSC01568"><img src="https://c6.staticflickr.com/8/7239/27083073901_968e5450cf.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC01568"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/27083501471/in/album-72157667505878755/" title="DSC_0857"><img src="https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7619/27083501471_03b5fc6950.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="DSC_0857"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p></center>
<p>The ball is two 20 inch diameter, 0.5 inch thick polycarbonate hemispheres purchased from California Quality Plastics. Using a file from the builders club, a drill jig was made using a CNC, allowing pins to be added to the hemispheres so they remain fixed in relation to each other while the droid rolls. Even with the jig, there were a few spots where there was a noticeable edge where the two hemispheres met. While this was easy enough to sand off on the outside, I used strips of cardstock taped to the ball to determine the edge that had to be sanded down on the inside.</p>
<p><center><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/27151838085/in/album-72157667505878755/" title="DSC_1227"><img src="https://c6.staticflickr.com/8/7576/27151838085_65cffaf04e.jpg" width="281" height="500" alt="DSC_1227"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/26333674000/in/album-72157667505878755/" title="DSC01803"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/2/1651/26333674000_b567beb0d5.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC01803"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/26333671200/in/album-72157667505878755/" title="DSC01804"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/2/1581/26333671200_4f245397d2.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC01804"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p></center>
<p>At the time of writing there are two schools of thought concerning how to make the droid move, which I refer to as the hamster and the pendulum or spindle. The hamster is basically a robot that moves around inside the ball causing it to move. This is the same way the Sphero BB-8 moves. The pendulum refers to a droid where the drive mechanism is fixed to one axis and turns by shifting or rotating its weight, which is how the xrobotsUK version 2 and 3 droids work. While the pendulum method provides the best options for assembly and control, it has one serious drawback in that only one ring around the ball ever touches the ground. Considering what the wheels look like on my other robots I opted to go with the hamster method so the ball would wear more evenly as all surfaces will eventually touch the ground.</p>
<p>My CAD skills are a bit rusty and I wanted to minimize the amount of fine machining required, so I started off by locating two gear down motors that could be mounted directly to usable rubber wheels. After several days of looking for options I settled on two NPC 2212 motors with 4” soft rubber wheels. Then using a sketch pad and MDF, I laid out a skeleton for the drive system. This was an iterative process and three mockups were created before I cut the first functional prototype out of birch plywood. On prototype 1 I had the wheels mounted higher on the ball so the batteries and weigh could be suspended between them. While this did allow the ball to move on early test, the contact point of the wheels caused the hemispheres to push out and separate. This problem was eliminated on prototype 2 where I put the wheels as low as possible and the batteries and weight on the outside. Not only did this eliminate the splitting problem, the lower position provided a better “gear” ratio with the ball and helped refine handling.</p>
<p><center><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/26877271850/in/album-72157667505878755/" title="DSC01596"><img src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7717/26877271850_58973dcfd6.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="DSC01596"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/27056123912/in/album-72157667505878755/" title="DSC01793"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7589/27056123912_5632d6b518.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC01793"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
Prototype1
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/26547447913/in/album-72157667505878755/" title="DSC_1238"><img src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7585/26547447913_9742771a03.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="DSC_1238"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
Prototype2<br /></center>
<p>Next was attaching the head. The question I get asked the most is, “How does the head stay on?” This is actually the simplest part of the build. 8 magnets, 4 in the head and 4 in the body, keep the head attached. Ball castors are used so the head and the mating plate can move around the ball. The polarities are matched such that the head will always fit on one way.</p>
<p><center><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/26546882383/in/album-72157667505878755/" title="DSC01797"><img src="https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7617/26546882383_2fbc424679.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC01797"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p></center>
<p>With this set up and all the programing I would have to do, I decided that the head would only turn. Leaning would have complicated the stability system and this layout did not allow me to incorporate a counterweight for the head. The mast is built from aluminum channel and components from ServoCity. The motion of the head is controlled with a high torque servo. Since the motion of the head is limited to looking between full left and full right, I can use the head as a reference point for what direction is forward on the droid.</p>
<p><center><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/26003743003/in/album-72157667505878755/" title="DSC01816"><img src="https://c4.staticflickr.com/2/1661/26003743003_92d482bba8.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="DSC01816"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p></center>
<p> BB-8 is naturally unstable and wants to rock back and forth. This is bad for a lot of reasons, and difficult to eliminate with the transmitter alone. The solution was to incorporate an Internal Measurement Unit (IMU), an Arduino, and a Proportional, Integral, and Derivative (PID) loop. The IMU provides data about the droids orientation (how much he is leaning) and feeds that into the Arduino, which is basically a small computer. The Arduino takes that data along with the signal from the receiver, and computes how much power to send to the motors. The PID loop is a function that calculates how much power to provide based on position. Eventually I will explain in detail how this works on my A7L page, but most of the stability design was borrowed from xrobots UK. I am not great at programming or control theory, so it took about a week for me to make the droid stable on the drive axis.</p>
<p><center><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/26546805793/in/album-72157667505878755/" title="DSC01817"><img src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7289/26546805793_0f38c4124b.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC01817"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p></center>
<p>Speaker placement on BB-8 is tricky. The speaker can’t be in the ball because there are no holes in the ball and you would not be able to hear it. This means the speaker needs to be in the head, but the controls need to be in the body. Instead of plugging the WAV trigger directly to an amplifier and speaker like I do with the Dalek and R2, I purchased a Bluetooth transmitter so the sound can be sent to an off the self Bluetooth speaker in the dome. Right now the sounds are recorded from the Sphero BB-8, but as people pull the sounds from the film the files will be upgraded.</p>
<p><center><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/26054231294/in/album-72157667505878755/" title="DSC01827"><img src="https://c7.staticflickr.com/2/1507/26054231294_3a9a231a09.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC01827"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p></center>
<p>I had to be VERY careful about painting the ball as it will receive more abuse than any other prop I have ever painted. After running test with scrap polycarbonate, I decided to go with Krylon Fusion paint as it is designed to bond to plastic. The ball was sanded down, cleaned 3 times with isopropyl alcohol, then painted with 6 coats of paint and allowed to cure for two days. One of the club members designed graphics for the circles and the club now does runs of them in automotive grade vinyl. The decals were applied, lines drawn with Sharpie, then the entire ball received several layers of Krylon Crystal Clear.</p>
<p><center><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/27151070695/in/album-72157667505878755/" title="DSC01846"><img src="https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7565/27151070695_c1b2f7190d.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC01846"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/26876924280/in/album-72157667505878755/" title="DSC01848"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7571/26876924280_1be716b565.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC01848"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p></center>
<p>After giving the clear coat a day to dry, the ball was weathered with acrylic paints from Michael’s. There are A LOT of videos on how to do this, but in a nut shell you paint a little on, wipe it off, and repeat until the droid looks worn.</p>
<p><center><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/27056667252/in/album-72157667505878755/" title="DSC_1267"><img src="https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7356/27056667252_6b5aa01024.jpg" width="281" height="500" alt="DSC_1267"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/27083388271/in/album-72157667505878755/" title="DSC_1269"><img src="https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7477/27083388271_4aae0820cb.jpg" width="281" height="500" alt="DSC_1269"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p></center>
<p>While I am happy with the result, the droid still has one issue in that he is not stabilized side to side. I had to finish him as is due to looming deadlines, but this fall I hope to revisit the drive system and add a swinging weight before celebration. Big thank you to Dan Valdez, Cory Pacione, James Bruton, and the BB-8 Builders club as this would not have happened without your help!</p>
<p><center><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/27109759182/in/album-72157667505878755/" title="DSCN8598_edit"><img src="https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7419/27109759182_b3b7b74dee.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN8598_edit"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/27137249971/in/album-72157667505878755/" title="DSCN8638_edit"><img src="https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7419/27137249971_b1486133a7.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="DSCN8638_edit"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/26601030603/in/album-72157667505878755/" title="DSCN8606_edit"><img src="https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7619/26601030603_3f0975e43a.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN8606_edit"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/26601038623/in/album-72157667505878755/" title="DSCN8602_edit"><img src="https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7192/26601038623_6f24ee89ca.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="DSCN8602_edit"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/27137274671/in/album-72157667505878755/" title="DSCN8620_edit"><img src="https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7644/27137274671_05689f2d31.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN8620_edit"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p></center>
<p> To stay up to date with our other projects, be sure to like out collaborative page<a href="https://www.facebook.com/2StoryProps/"> 2StoryProps</a> and my personal page <a href="https://www.facebook.com/A7LProps/">A7L Props</a> on Facebook! </p>
<p>For more build pictures, visit the flickr album <a href=”https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/albums/72157667505878755”>click here.</a></p>
<p><center>
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="270" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/AQZmWnEjMkY" width="480"></iframe></p></center>
<p>Thanks for reading!</p>
<p>-Wayne</p>
Waynehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00037588568914291925noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4219958125389265546.post-40447179738992805702015-09-24T07:15:00.000-05:002015-09-24T07:15:47.262-05:00Jaune Arc's Crocea Mors from RWBY<p>And now for the final write up in the JNPR prop series, we present the creation of Jaune’s armor, sword, and shield.</p>
<p><center><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/21420901208/in/album-72157658865286266/" title="1108_Players_and_Pieces_15503"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/577/21420901208_9d192b2a4c.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="1108_Players_and_Pieces_15503"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p></center>
<p>Jaune’s sword was built pretty much the exact same way Pyrrah’s was, in fact they were built at the same time. The sword is made up of layers of MDF and plastic with an ApoxieSculpt tip since this was a one off build. The main difference is the handle on Jaune’s is PVC glued to the MDF blade. After paint, they grip was wrapped in blue vinyl and glued down with Goop.</p>
<p><center><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/21422280799/in/album-72157658865286266/" title="DSC00415"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5663/21422280799_66b9f6802d.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC00415"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/21609233935/in/album-72157658865286266/" title="DSC00434"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5802/21609233935_b35775cd8c.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC00434"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/21618019001/in/album-72157658865286266/" title="DSC00463"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5835/21618019001_80aa4cda8e.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC00463"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/21421019990/in/album-72157658865286266/" title="DSC00485"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/677/21421019990_c39a4e8d30.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC00485"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p></center>
<p>The armor started by taking some measurements from our Jaune, to figure out the rough size and curve the armor would need to take. I then sculpted bucks with pink insulation foam. After initial shaping, the foam was coated in ShellShock to make a hard coating that would survive the heat and pressure of vacuum forming. After smoothing with bondo the edges were shaped with ApoxieSculpt. The armor was then pulled from 0.06” styrene.</p>
<p><center><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/21582812966/in/album-72157658865286266/" title="DSC00496"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/599/21582812966_639ffe8715.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC00496"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/21617841491/in/album-72157658865286266/" title="DSC00503"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/684/21617841491_c2869b0167.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC00503"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/21421995539/in/album-72157658865286266/" title="DSC00520"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5766/21421995539_e07ccfe355.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC00520"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/20986079804/in/album-72157658865286266/" title="DSC00539"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5685/20986079804_ec5a59f14b.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC00539"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/21582584606/in/album-72157658865286266/" title="DSC00547"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/730/21582584606_ec0df1da8d.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC00547"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p></center>
<p>The front and back plates attach directly to the hoodie with Velcro. The smaller piece of the shoulder armor is glued to the large piece with eva foam in between to provide the correct offset. More EVA foam was added to hold the shoulders in the correct location. They attach to the shirt using elastic bands and Velcro.</p>
<p>In the show, Jaune’s shield fold up into a sheath for his sword. To replicate this look, the shield was built up using layers of 0.04” styrene. Internal sections were cut out to reduce weight, while a metal rod was glued in the center to keep the assembled shield straight. Two straps were glued to the back and everything was then painted with krylon.</p>
<p><center><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/21421140738/in/album-72157658865286266/" title="DSC00498"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/696/21421140738_0fe97199ef.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC00498"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/21421125368/in/album-72157658865286266/" title="DSC00500"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5824/21421125368_9495f7dd19.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC00500"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/21597406902/in/album-72157658865286266/" title="DSC00546"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5621/21597406902_64e6fd0e82.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC00546"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p></center>
<p>And that’s it! This was a very demanding project as everyone’s props had to be completed in a 6 week window, but having the whole group going around is a lot of fun and I am very happy with how everyone’s costumes came out.</p>
<p><center><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/20987715463/in/album-72157658865286266/" title="DSC01220"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/708/20987715463_19fc1b8865.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="DSC01220"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/20986032174/in/album-72157658865286266/" title="DSC01221"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/589/20986032174_552609abae.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="DSC01221"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/21420974558/in/album-72157658865286266/" title="DSC01224"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5791/21420974558_691d89b2eb.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="DSC01224"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p></center>
<p> As I mentioned in the first post I only made the props and hard components for the team. All the costumes you see in the pictures were made by the individuals wearing them, except for my coat which was made by our Nora. Additionally our group has two of the villains, Cinder and Torchwich, who made their own costumes as well. I think we can all agree they did a phenomenal job and it was a lot of fun working with them.</p>
<p><center><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/20987738163/in/album-72157658865286266/" title="DSC01218"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5752/20987738163_6dd5f2893e.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC01218"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/21421871979/in/album-72157658865286266/" title="11036212_571092357495_4948284202926587966_n"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5778/21421871979_40cfe84899.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="11036212_571092357495_4948284202926587966_n"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/21420953158/in/album-72157658865286266/" title="11295941_571092297615_5317562706066032807_n"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5806/21420953158_af3c8231a8.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="11295941_571092297615_5317562706066032807_n"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/21608860075/in/album-72157658865286266/" title="10842119_1599733170285383_3138115549690329698_o"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5652/21608860075_4a2197b9d6.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="10842119_1599733170285383_3138115549690329698_o"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center></p>
<p>Looking forward, I’d like to try and make the main RWBY team’s weapons at some point, but there is a large project I plan to start after Halloween that will take a lot of my time. Be sure to check out Nora’s, Lie Ren’s, and Pyrrah’s write ups and thanks for reading!</p>
<p> To stay up to date with our other projects, <a href="https://www.facebook.com/2StoryProps/">click here</a> to follow us on Facebook.</p>
<p>For more build pictures, visit the flickr album <a href=”https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/albums/72157658865286266”>click here.</a></p>
<p><a href="http://2storyprops.blogspot.com/2015/09/nora-valkyries-magnhild-from-rwby.html">Click here</a> for Nora Valkyrie’s Magnhild!</p>
<p><a href="http://2storyprops.blogspot.com/2015/09/lie-rens-stormflower-pistols-from-rwby.html">Click here</a> for Lie Ren’s StormFlowers!</p>
<p><a href="http://2storyprops.blogspot.com/2015/09/pyrrha-nikos-milo-and-akouo-from-rwby.html">Click here</a> for Pyrrha Nikos' Milo and Akouo!</p>
<p>-Wayne, 2StoryProps</p>
Waynehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00037588568914291925noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4219958125389265546.post-4004013664281434882015-09-21T16:36:00.000-05:002015-09-24T07:18:28.966-05:00Pyrrha Nikos' Milo and Akouo from RWBY<p>We’ll continue our JNPR write ups with Pyrrha’s sword and shield.</p>
<p><center><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/20834308813/in/album-72157658619407106/" title="4"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5767/20834308813_b8c9a0fa8d.jpg" width="500" height="321" alt="4"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p></center>
<p>As with Nora’s hammer, Pyrrha’s weapon transforms in the show into a sword, shield, or rifle. At the request of my friend who portrays the character in our group, we decided to make the sword. The build started once again by obtaining the straight-on references from Monty’s facebook page and scaling it up with the grid method. The blade itself is half inch thick made from two layers of MDF. The rest of the sword was built up using layers of MDF, plastic and plywood.</p>
<p><center><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/20833030084/in/album-72157658619407106/" title="DSC00400"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5693/20833030084_15ce990a4c.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC00400"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/20833024384/in/album-72157658619407106/" title="DSC00412"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/639/20833024384_cceca6bc7c.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC00412"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p></center>
<p>Since this would be a one off build (although I wanted to make a mold I did not have the time or resources available) the tip needed to be reinforced, otherwise the MDF would easily snap. The solution I used was to cut the tip off, add a threaded rod, then rebuild it with ApoxieSculpt. The sword was then primed painted, and given vinyl detailing</p>
<p><center><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/21444731812/in/album-72157658619407106/" title="DSC00438"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5634/21444731812_02c816a028.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC00438"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/21444710012/in/album-72157658619407106/" title="DSC00444"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/729/21444710012_43a425a078.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC00444"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/21267540960/in/album-72157658619407106/" title="DSC00484"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5816/21267540960_f118d135a5.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC00484"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></ p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/21455466095/in/album-72157658619407106/" title="DSC01247"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/621/21455466095_d2724d2181.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC01247"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p></center>
<p>For the shield I put our ProtoFormer to use. I started by making a buck out of layers of MDF. Circles were achieved using a homemade compass and carefully cutting them on my scroll saw, then sanding the proper curves in. The details were added with a dremmel engraving tool with small holes drilled all the way through so air could exit during the vacuum forming process. A copy was then pulled using 0.04” styrene. The shield is about 21 inches wide and likely the widest object we can make a pull from.</p>
<p><center><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/21267712720/in/album-72157658619407106/" title="DSC00369"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/636/21267712720_67974ae1dc.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC00369"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/21444785992/in/album-72157658619407106/" title="DSC00371"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5624/21444785992_6549107ed1.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC00371"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/21267908918/in/album-72157658619407106/" title="DSC00372"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/655/21267908918_df0fa2db65.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC00372"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/21429470276/in/album-72157658619407106/" title="DSC00440"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/584/21429470276_4508552685.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC00440"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/20832989284/in/album-72157658619407106/" title="DSC00443"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/597/20832989284_b5c651070c.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC00443"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/21464177091/in/album-72157658619407106/" title="DSC00464"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5737/21464177091_7cfa584a92.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC00464"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p></center>
<p>The pull was trimmed and then mounted to a plywood back piece using Goop. Before the two were joined a 1 inch cube of pink foam was glued to the center of the board to prevent the shield from collapsing in. The straps are bolted into the board using set nuts. The shield was then painted with Krylon paints and hand brushed acrylic for the details.</p>
<p><center><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/20834467263/in/album-72157658619407106/" title="DSC00488"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/613/20834467263_8890883bd6.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC00488"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/21444455492/in/album-72157658619407106/" title="DSC00530"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/741/21444455492_f2324df454.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC00530"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/21463948111/in/album-72157658619407106/" title="DSC00544"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/637/21463948111_518bbecaaa.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC00544"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/21267658528/in/album-72157658619407106/" title="DSC01244"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5652/21267658528_55a4cf927f.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="DSC01244"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/21464032131/in/album-72157658619407106/" title="DSC01245"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5789/21464032131_4652dc6e15.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC01245"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/21464000451/in/album-72157658619407106/" title="DSC01249"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/766/21464000451_da8de03daa.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC01249"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/21268551059/in/album-72157658619407106/" title="DSC01250"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/747/21268551059_f1268b1a23.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC01250"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p></center>
<p>Thanks for reading. Be sure to check out the write ups for Nora and Lie Ren’s weapons and stay tuned as we finish things up with Jaune!</p>
<p> To stay up to date with our other projects, <a href="https://www.facebook.com/2StoryProps/">click here</a> to follow us on Facebook.</p>
<p>For more build pictures, visit the flickr album <a href=”https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/albums/72157658619407106”>click here.</a></p>
<p><a href="http://2storyprops.blogspot.com/2015/09/nora-valkyries-magnhild-from-rwby.html">Click here</a> for Nora Valkyrie’s Magnhild!</p>
<p><a href="http://2storyprops.blogspot.com/2015/09/lie-rens-stormflower-pistols-from-rwby.html">Click here</a> for Lie Ren’s StormFlowers!</p>
<p><a href="http://2storyprops.blogspot.com/2015/09/jaune-arcs-crocea-mors-from-rwby.html">Click here</a> for Jaune Arc's Crocea Mors!</p>
<p>-Wayne, 2StoryProps</p>Waynehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00037588568914291925noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4219958125389265546.post-73022965869461691862015-09-15T22:14:00.000-05:002015-09-24T07:18:16.803-05:00Lie Ren's StormFlower Pistols from RWBY<p>For part two of our JNPR build write ups, we’ll go over the weapons I made for the character I portrayed in our group; Ren Lie’s pistols.</p>
<p><center><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/21428391446/in/album-72157651295273578/" title="RWBY6_007829"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5677/21428391446_b8cc2e3048.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="RWBY6_007829"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center></p>
<p> As with the Magnhild build, the project started off gathering references from Monty’s Facebook page, which had a straight-on 90 degree shot of the gun! I used a grid technique I learned in grade school to scale the gun up based on my Star Lord blasters and created a template on poster board. The shape was then cut from several layers of MDF stacked together to form the proper thickness of the pistol. Bevels were filled with apoxie sculpt and the shape refined with my dremmel and palm sander.</p>
<p><center><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/16819968369/in/album-72157651295273578/" title="DSC00337"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8691/16819968369_0721ff8df7.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC00337"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/16819955689/in/album-72157651295273578/" title="DSC00344"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7597/16819955689_c77b0462d4.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC00344"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center></p>
<p> Additional details, like the heat sink on the barrel, were added with layers of styrene and 1/8” birch plywood. After about 1 week of putty and primer I had the positive for the guns. I typically don’t like to talk about cost, but one funny note I’d like to share is up to this point the gun was completely made of scrap material from other projects, particularly my R2-D2. Thus if I only needed one the entire build would only have required the cost of paint and vinyl. Of course, Ren Lie carries two of them so it was time to order some materials from Smooth-On, which is not cheap.</p>
<p><center><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/16980173946/in/album-72157651295273578/" title="DSC00348"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8734/16980173946_4b441d484e.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC00348"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/16818635710/in/album-72157651295273578/" title="DSC00362"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8707/16818635710_666b77651a.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC00362"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/21124519498/in/album-72157651295273578/" title="DSC00375"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/690/21124519498_3468f25a92.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC00375"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p></center>
<p>There isn’t anything ground breaking about the mold process; it is a two part Rebound mold like we typically use with swords. The new technique in this case was casting. On my first set, which is what I took to Momocon, I brushed the inside of each half with a layer of Shell Shock Slow, then a second layer with Shell Shock and glass cloth, and then put the mold together to cure. About half way through cure, when the resin was no-longer tacky, I filled the casting with Foam-It 3 while still in the mold. After an evening of curing the mold was opened and I had a light weight casting. Unfortunately, I believe the tooth pick I put in the tips to keep them from snapping caused an inhibiting issue and the paint never dried fully. Eventually I fixed this problem using threaded rod and switched from Shell Shock to EpoxAcast, which has a much slower and more workable cure time.</p>
<p><center><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/21320555031/in/album-72157651295273578/" title="DSC00399"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5687/21320555031_75b1a0785c.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC00399"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/21125472599/in/album-72157651295273578/" title="DSC00403"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/637/21125472599_5957707243.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC00403"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/21125461709/in/album-72157651295273578/" title="DSC00418"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5652/21125461709_6a50d452df.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="DSC00418"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p></center>
<p>The business end of the gun was made using two pieces of PVC, making a mold, and casting copied with smoothcast. They were sanded and epoxied to the front of each gun</p>
<p><center><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/20689502904/in/album-72157651295273578/" title="DSC00461"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/722/20689502904_68b85cbd76.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC00461"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/21285919766/in/album-72157651295273578/" title="DSC00466"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/624/21285919766_a631effdc0.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC00466"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p></center>
<p>After some bondo work the guns were primed and painted using Krylon paints. For the vinyl on my current set, my friend Barbra made vinyl decals at the Maker’s Local shop and applied them to the guns. They were then sealed with Rustoleum Crystal Clear.</p>
<p><center><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/21124363098/in/album-72157651295273578/" title="DSC01263"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5677/21124363098_851bb0ff5c.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="DSC01263"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/21301658392/in/album-72157651295273578/" title="DSC01257"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/731/21301658392_5f4581685a.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="DSC01257"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/21320439401/in/album-72157651295273578/" title="DSC01262"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5719/21320439401_edd6b6558c.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC01262"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p></center>
<p>Stay tuned for Jaune and Phyrra’s write ups coming soon!</p>
<p> To stay up to date with our other projects, <a href=”https://www.facebook.com/2StoryProps/”>click here</a> to follow us on Facebook.</p>
<p>For more build pictures, visit the flickr album <a href=”https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/albums/72157651295273578”>click here.</a></p>
<p><a href="http://2storyprops.blogspot.com/2015/09/nora-valkyries-magnhild-from-rwby.html">Click here</a> for Nora Valkyrie’s Magnhild!</p>
<p><a href="http://2storyprops.blogspot.com/2015/09/pyrrha-nikos-milo-and-akouo-from-rwby.html">Click here</a> for Pyrrha Nikos' Milo and Akouo!</p>
<p><a href="http://2storyprops.blogspot.com/2015/09/jaune-arcs-crocea-mors-from-rwby.html">Click here</a> for Jaune Arc's Crocea Mors!</p>
<p>-Wayne, 2StoryProps</p>Waynehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00037588568914291925noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4219958125389265546.post-13095730757358292912015-09-10T22:51:00.000-05:002015-09-24T07:18:05.125-05:00Nora Valkyrie's Magnhild from RWBY<p>If you have been to a convention in the last two years, chances are you have seen a few people cosplaying as characters from the Rooster Teeth show RWBY. The show is made in the style of anime and Japanese video games, and has A LOT of really interesting props and costume designs. For Momocon 2015 a few friends here in Huntsville decided we were going to put a RWBY, or more appropriately a JNPR, group together for the con. For this project I was in charge of the weapons and props.</p>
<p><center><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/21123274540/in/dateposted-public/" title="DSC01208"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5629/21123274540_7fab10e2ce_z.jpg" width="640" height="426" alt="DSC01208"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center></p>
<p>We’ll start by showing off the single largest prop, Nora’s hammer.</p>
<p><center><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/21285321636/in/dateposted-public/" title="human_pinkie_pie_by_scarecrow113-d83cb9a"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/612/21285321636_2b1148aa33.jpg" width="500" height="278" alt="human_pinkie_pie_by_scarecrow113-d83cb9a"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p></center>
<p>All the weapons in the show, except Jaune’s sword and shield at the time of this writing, function as melee weapons and guns. In Nora’s case, her weapon is a hammer that transforms into a grenade launcher. While I don’t want to say it is impossible to make a prop that transforms, my friend was only interested in the hammer, plus a short deadline lead to the build being only the hammer mode. The project started, as always, by gathering reference material. Monty was very helpful to the fan community and posted multiple shots of all the characters and their weapons on his Facebook page, even going as far as providing a panel break down for the hammer. For scale I decided to make the hammed about 6 feet tall, which would make it 3 inches taller than my friend and about my height.</p>
<p><center><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/21311571585/in/dateposted-public/" title="1377145_480904315357779_1577687998_n"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/725/21311571585_19f6fe24da.jpg" width="432" height="500" alt="1377145_480904315357779_1577687998_n"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center></p>
<p>The build was separated into two components; the handle and the head. The handle started off as several strips of ¼” MDF glued together to make a 6 foot long piece 1.5” wide and 1.0” thick. I chose MDF because it was cheap and worked well on the Marshall Lee and Marceline guitars, but if I did it again I would use birch plywood which is a bit stronger and lighter. Additional pieces of MDF were glued on for the two pivot joints and the bottom. My friend wanted to help, so I had her draw the filigree patterns, which I then transferred to 0.04” styrene left over from my R2-D2 build then attached using super glue. After a bit of putty work the handle was primed and sanded into its final shape.</p>
<p><center><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/16818606130/in/album-72157651295182578/" title="DSC00283"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7636/16818606130_3f8920eb80.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC00283"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/16818591440/in/album-72157651295182578/" title="DSC00292"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7592/16818591440_8108ce2c43.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC00292"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/17006085645/in/album-72157651295182578/" title="DSC00300"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7613/17006085645_934800f0ff.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC00300"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p></center>
<p>There was a bit of back and forth on how to make the head; either from vacuum formed plastic or EVA foam. I decided to go the foam route as it would save some time and allow my friend to contribute to the build more easily. After making a rough sketch I started by building up the drum portion with 3” mailing tubes and EVA foam. From there I started to build the head of the hammer layer by layer using old floor mats from my apartment and foamie mats from Hobby Lobby. Most of the hammer is joined with contact adhesive and hot glue.</p>
<p><center><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/16385961693/in/album-72157651295182578/" title="DSC00314"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7591/16385961693_4261712d7b.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC00314"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/16818320168/in/album-72157651295182578/" title="DSC00322"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7650/16818320168_03a4cc72ff.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC00322"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/16798649857/in/album-72157651295182578/" title="DSC00329"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8725/16798649857_696072dbb2.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="DSC00329"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p></center>
<p>The original plan was to cut the filigree out of foam sheet and glue that to the hammer. What we found out though is the foam stretches, and it is almost impossible to get pieces to fit properly with each other or form a proper straight line. After our first attempt I ended up taking the sides of the hammer off and re-drawing a new pattern on eva foam, then scoring it with a knife and hitting it with a heat gun to give me clean engravings in the foam. </p>
<p><center><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/20688816144/in/album-72157651295182578/" title="DSC00390"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/719/20688816144_b0a21f1ed5.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC00390"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/21319657731/in/album-72157651295182578/" title="DSC00394"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5788/21319657731_c0da4f2611.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC00394"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/21123387110/in/album-72157651295182578/" title="DSC00396"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/602/21123387110_497266cbb2.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC00396"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p></center>
<p>The foam needed to be sealed, so it was hit with several layers of black PlastiDip. Everything was then coated in Rustoleum primer and aluminum paint. My friend added the dark grey by hand with brush on acrylic paint.</p>
<p><center><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/21123579258/in/album-72157651295182578/" title="DSC00405"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5726/21123579258_22e477e322.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="DSC00405"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/21319402391/in/album-72157651295182578/" title="DSC00429"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/721/21319402391_85f93ac570.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC00429"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center></p>
<p>The hammer ended up a bit taller than expected, but over all I am very happy with the result, especially as this is my first foam build. Next write up going up will be Lie Ren’s StormFlower pistols.</p>
<center><p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/21319521431/in/album-72157651295182578/" title="DSC01229"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5683/21319521431_c8ce04ec7a.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="DSC01229"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/20688649604/in/album-72157651295182578/" title="DSC01231"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/757/20688649604_d4218548a2.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="DSC01231"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/21123229140/in/album-72157651295182578/" title="DSC01233"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/589/21123229140_6d8d43572f.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC01233"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/20688610444/in/album-72157651295182578/" title="DSC01235"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/667/20688610444_b3260554cc.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="DSC01235"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/21311254875/in/album-72157651295182578/" title="DSC01239"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/627/21311254875_261bef656a.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="DSC01239"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p></center>
<p> To stay up to date with our other projects, <a href=”https://www.facebook.com/2StoryProps/”>click here</a> to follow us on Facebook.</p>
For more build pictures, visit the flickr album <a href=”https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/albums/72157651295182578”>click here.</a>
<p>-Wayne, 2StoryProps</p>
<p><a href="http://2storyprops.blogspot.com/2015/09/lie-rens-stormflower-pistols-from-rwby.html">Click here</a> for Lie Ren's StormFlower Pistols.</p>
<p><a href="http://2storyprops.blogspot.com/2015/09/pyrrha-nikos-milo-and-akouo-from-rwby.html">Click here</a> for Pyrrha Nikos' Milo and Akouo!</p>
<p><a href="http://2storyprops.blogspot.com/2015/09/jaune-arcs-crocea-mors-from-rwby.html">Click here</a> for Jaune Arc's Crocea Mors!</p>Waynehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00037588568914291925noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4219958125389265546.post-61723584597045188032015-08-26T22:44:00.000-05:002015-08-26T22:44:27.646-05:00R2-D2<p>While we strive to build unique props, the trailers for The Force Awakens made me really excited about Star Wars again and gave me the push I needed to build a prop I have wanted since I was 8, R2-D2. </p>
<p><center><a data-flickr-embed="true" data-header="false" data-footer="false" data-context="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/19044213471/in/album-72157643619516743/" title="DSC01065"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/271/19044213471_2d4ffe987b_z.jpg" width="426" height="640" alt="DSC01065"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p></center>
<p>Unlike our typical builds, there is A LOT of information on line about this prop and a very large community of builders who have built their own R2’s or other astromechs. Many of these builders have dedicated entire blogs to their builds. For this write up we are going to keep things pretty top level and cover key points and parts unique to our particular droid. If you found this blog entry because you are planning to build a droid of your own, the first thing you will need to do is become a member of <a href=”http://astromech.net/”>astromech.net</a>, which is the R2 builders group. Once you have a user name on the forum, the next step is to join the clubs yahoo group as this is where all the drawings are posted. I hesitate to say “plans” as the drawings and templates have dimensions but are not step by step instructions. I also recommend printing the drawings and putting them in a binder so you can reference them later.</p>
<p><center><a data-flickr-embed="true" data-header="false" data-footer="false" data-context="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/20292142114/in/album-72157643619516743/" title="DSC01165"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/740/20292142114_c75bd56011_z.jpg" width="640" height="426" alt="DSC01165"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p></center>
<p>And now, onto our build!</p>
<p>Most builders go one of three routes; styrene, aluminum, and plywood. Aluminum is pretty expensive and heavy, and a completely styrene droid is probably a quicker build and very light, but I had concerns about the strength. Thus, I decided to go the plywood route. R2’s skeleton is made from various pieces of ½” and ¾” thick Birch plywood cut out using the Senna plans. Rather than cut all the parts by hand, MindGear Labs here in Huntsville converted the PDF plans into a cut file and CNC’d all the parts on their large table. With minimal sanding I was able to put everything together with Elmer’s carpenter glue.</p>
<p><center><a data-flickr-embed="true" data-header="false" data-footer="false" data-context="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/16319488798/in/album-72157643619516743/" title="DSC00035"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7346/16319488798_50a9811705_z.jpg" width="640" height="426" alt="DSC00035"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p></center>
<p>For the skin, I purchased an 4x8 foot sheet of 0.04” styrene and had the skin templates printed full size at Kinkos. The templates were attached to the plastic with spray adhesive and all the necessary parts cut out by hand with a Stanley knife. The skin is 2 layers. The inner layer was glued to the wood frame with Goop and held in place with bungee cords for 24 hours. Once that layer cured, the outer layer was taped on and attached using super glue.</p>
<p><center><a data-flickr-embed="true" data-header="false" data-footer="false" data-context="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/16321211257/in/album-72157643619516743/" title="DSC00142"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7299/16321211257_7cfbe50e04_z.jpg" width="640" height="426" alt="DSC00142"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" data-header="false" data-footer="false" data-context="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/16319401978/in/album-72157643619516743/" title="DSC00144"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7373/16319401978_0114e77f21_z.jpg" width="640" height="426" alt="DSC00144"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" data-header="false" data-footer="false" data-context="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/16321178337/in/album-72157643619516743/" title="10950687_10104689580564770_4345843287965171292_n"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7388/16321178337_5e9fd606f4_z.jpg" width="361" height="640" alt="10950687_10104689580564770_4345843287965171292_n"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p></center>
<p>Initially I wanted to vacuum form the skirt to put our proto-former to use. I decided to make it out of wood instead so the body could be set upright when the legs are off. The basic shape was made with plywood and the curved surfaces created with styrene glued on with Goop. After the glue dried I filled the cavities with Foam-It! 3 to provide internal support. The ribs were made using MDF.</p>
<p><center><a data-flickr-embed="true" data-header="false" data-footer="false" data-context="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/19041844015/in/album-72157643619516743/" title="DSC00154"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/445/19041844015_70fde91d10_z.jpg" width="640" height="426" alt="DSC00154"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" data-header="false" data-footer="false" data-context="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/19041801955/in/album-72157643619516743/" title="DSC00165"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/456/19041801955_021fc0ef4e_z.jpg" width="640" height="426" alt="DSC00165"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p></center>
<p>The cosmetic shells for the feet were made from 1/8” plywood. For the outer feet there is an access panel held on with rare earth magnets so I can put a nut on the joint bolt. The “battery box” that covers the motor was made using styrene and plywood, and is held on with magnets as well. Inside each foot is an electric scooter motor and wheel supported by an aluminum bracket manufactured by one of my co-workers after I made a mock-up out of MDF.</p>
<p><center><a data-flickr-embed="true" data-header="false" data-footer="false" data-context="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/15886982923/in/album-72157643619516743/" title="DSC00134"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7398/15886982923_51a5e99bce_z.jpg" width="640" height="426" alt="DSC00134"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" data-header="false" data-footer="false" data-context="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/19041456255/in/album-72157643619516743/" title="DSC00524"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3864/19041456255_34e290e621_z.jpg" width="640" height="426" alt="DSC00524"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" data-header="false" data-footer="false" data-context="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/16319697660/in/album-72157643619516743/" title="DSC00116"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7458/16319697660_1b1786e6ac_z.jpg" width="640" height="426" alt="DSC00116"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p></center>
<p>The center foot has the worst joint design I’ve ever seen. For years I thought the side panels would come off and you could slide a bolt in that way. Turns out the top edge of the panel is BELOW the pivot, so it is impossible to run a bolt straight through. Instead, I designed a bracket with two threaded bolts which tighten from either side into the pivot point on the leg. Again, a mockup was made and then an aluminum version was made for the droid.</p>
<p><center><a data-flickr-embed="true" data-header="false" data-footer="false" data-context="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/16506140372/in/album-72157643619516743/" title="DSC00112"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8609/16506140372_9367dee7be_z.jpg" width="640" height="426" alt="DSC00112"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p></center>
<p>The legs were built from several layers of plywood CNC’d at MindGear. An aluminum tube was glued into the pivot joint where the bolt runs though. While I made the ankle pieces, all the other greeblies with the exception of the booster frame were purchased from resinparts.com. The booster frame was bought from a friend, and modified so it would be held on with magnets. The shoulders were assembled from several layers water jetted out of 1/8” styrene using files created by David.</p>
<p><center><a data-flickr-embed="true" data-header="false" data-footer="false" data-context="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/16506199412/in/album-72157643619516743/" title="DSC00033"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8590/16506199412_b8dbeca265_z.jpg" width="640" height="426" alt="DSC00033"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" data-header="false" data-footer="false" data-context="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/19036001442/in/album-72157643619516743/" title="DSC00509"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3848/19036001442_a1ce3eb6fb_z.jpg" width="640" height="426" alt="DSC00509"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p></center>
<p>The dome is what is referred to as the “300mm Dome” and is the go to for most builders. Getting one typically requires waiting for a run to occur, but I found a forum member who was looking to part with his un-started kit. The kit contains 2 domes; the outer which is laser cut and the slightly smaller inner dome. To finish the kit I had to cut all the panels out by hand and file down the edges. Most of the panels were then painted blue (more on that in a bit). In a perfect world the inner dome would have the same curve, but it doesn’t. I had to do some extensive modifications to it to make it fit properly including adding an expanding -joint and cutting holes where the lights would be. Once all the cutting and painter were done the dome was glued together with Goop. The radar lens is a 4” ornament, and the indicator light covers are made from plastic off a milk jug. All resin greeblies once again were purchased from resinparts.com.</p>
<p><center><a data-flickr-embed="true" data-header="false" data-footer="false" data-context="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/13708238384/in/album-72157643619516743/" title="IMG_1153"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7204/13708238384_a21c49e05d_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="IMG_1153"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" data-header="false" data-footer="false" data-context="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/15886957483/in/album-72157643619516743/" title="IMG_2012"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8664/15886957483_755faeb3cf_z.jpg" width="640" height="360" alt="IMG_2012"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" data-header="false" data-footer="false" data-context="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/16481117946/in/album-72157643619516743/" title="IMG_2031"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7426/16481117946_80a8156539_z.jpg" width="640" height="360" alt="IMG_2031"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center></p>
<p>Since this was meant to be a KISS build, I decided early on to use rattle cans for the paint. The white is Krylon gloss white while the silver is Krylon aluminum. The blue color was achieved by painting each piece with purple anodized paint, followed by blue anodized paint. It takes a bit of practice but produces a very rich “electric blue”</p>
<p><center><a data-flickr-embed="true" data-header="false" data-footer="false" data-context="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/16321188577/in/album-72157643619516743/" title="IMG_2039"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7384/16321188577_68733ac7e0_z.jpg" width="640" height="360" alt="IMG_2039"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" data-header="false" data-footer="false" data-context="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/16321179227/in/album-72157643619516743/" title="IMG_2061"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7329/16321179227_1779565597_z.jpg" width="640" height="360" alt="IMG_2061"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p></center>
<p>One interesting aspect of this build is it completes a circle. I learned how to motorize the Dalek by reading the R2 forums, and now I motorized an R2 from lessons learned building the Dalek. They have about the same control system, except the R2 does not have electric brakes in his wheels and components were scaled down. The head and feet run on two 12V, 10 amp hour batteries wired in series while his sound system runs on a single 12V, 2 amp hour battery.</p>
<p><center><a data-flickr-embed="true" data-header="false" data-footer="false" data-context="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/19041125525/in/album-72157643619516743/" title="DSC01059"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/540/19041125525_8857a4f99a_z.jpg" width="640" height="426" alt="DSC01059"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p></center>
<p>Speaking of sounds, our good friend Daniel help us make R2’s sound system very unique. Not only can he beep, he can play music and beep and the same time. This is accomplished using a SparkFun wav trigger. p>
<p><center><a data-flickr-embed="true" data-header="false" data-footer="false" data-context="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/19014817426/in/album-72157643619516743/" title="DSC01067"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/455/19014817426_314bb877c6_z.jpg" width="426" height="640" alt="DSC01067"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p></center>
<p>Our little droid has been to a few events this year and while he doesn’t have the intimidating presence of his Dalek big brother, he has been fun to drive and much easier to transport. After putting this build off and am very happy to finally have an R2 of my own and now that he is out of the way I can get back to the more unique projects. Keep an eye out for write ups concerning our JNPR costume group coming soon!</p>
<p><center><a data-flickr-embed="true" data-header="false" data-footer="false" data-context="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/19044231881/in/album-72157643619516743/" title="DSC01063"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/497/19044231881_99360a1aa8_z.jpg" width="426" height="640" alt="DSC01063"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" data-header="false" data-footer="false" data-context="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/19035514382/in/album-72157643619516743/" title="DSC01066"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/388/19035514382_bd58edfcfe_z.jpg" width="426" height="640" alt="DSC01066"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" data-header="false" data-footer="false" data-context="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/18853289430/in/album-72157643619516743/" title="DSC01071"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3822/18853289430_85d8d755e8_z.jpg" width="426" height="640" alt="DSC01071"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" data-header="false" data-footer="false" data-context="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/19044147441/in/album-72157643619516743/" title="DSC01072"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/442/19044147441_c2130ae65d_z.jpg" width="426" height="640" alt="DSC01072"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" data-header="false" data-footer="false" data-context="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/18854791839/in/album-72157643619516743/" title="DSC01077"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3940/18854791839_4b11327aeb_z.jpg" width="640" height="426" alt="DSC01077"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p>
<p><a data-flickr-embed="true" data-header="false" data-footer="false" data-context="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/20888416716/in/album-72157643619516743/" title="DSC_0176"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/573/20888416716_671f7b884c_z.jpg" width="360" height="640" alt="DSC_0176"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></p></center>
<p> To stay up to date with R2’s appearances and our other projects, <a href=”https://www.facebook.com/2StoryProps/”>click here</a> to follow us on Facebook.</p>
For more build pictures, visit the flickr album <a href=”https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/albums/72157643619516743”>click here.</a>
<p>-Wayne, 2StoryProps</p>
Waynehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00037588568914291925noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4219958125389265546.post-83971984776395673482015-03-18T22:29:00.000-05:002015-03-19T11:07:17.580-05:00Marshall Lee Axe Guitar (Adventure Time)<p>Back in 2013 I helped a friend out by making a replica of <a href=http://2storyprops.blogspot.com/2013/03/marcelines-axe-bass-adventure-time.html>Marceline’s axe bass from Adventure Time</a>. It was a fun, quick little build and I was very happy with how it came out, especially since I had to finish the thing inside of two weeks. Late last summer with Dragon*Con approaching I decided to build the gender swapped version for quick casual costume to bring to the con. </p>
<p><center><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14208623158" title="Fionna_and_Marshall_Lee2 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3862/14208623158_73efdd0969.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="Fionna_and_Marshall_Lee2"></a></p></center>
<p>The build started by sketching out a design on the white board at the shop so I could see it full size. I used the real guitar I own (I do not know how to play, I bought if for Rock Smith) to determine the size of the body and neck. Looking at the references I realized Marshall’s guitar has a very long neck, and lengthened it almost 9 inches compared to my real guitar. The body is made up of layers of ½” and ¼” MDF while the neck is made of four layers of ¼” MDF. I decided not to use the foam method I used for Marceline to simplify the construction and speed up the build. The trade-off is I have a bit more weight, but compared to other items I bring to conventions I think it is manageable, especially since the final weight is comparable to a real guitar.</p>
<p><center><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14394174584" title="IMG_1312 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3898/14394174584_4a0787d267.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_1312"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14372127046" title="IMG_1324 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3918/14372127046_7039b96fd4.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_1324"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14208623398" title="IMG_1349 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5491/14208623398_c48a3b798a.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_1349"></a></p></center>
<p>The major difference between the guitar and the bass is the head. Marceline’s bass has a normal head which more or less is like a real instrument and allowed me to use real tuning hardware. Marshall’s instead has a skull that sits over the entire head of the guitar. To make this piece, I made a template and cut out 7 layers of ¼” MDF. The first 6 were glued together and sanded to fit around the neck of the guitar. To match the curve on the back of the neck, the neck was wrapped in wax paper and then pressed into the skull with bondo. The top piece was then glued on, giving me a form that slided right onto the neck of the guitar.</p>
<p><center><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14208622948" title="IMG_1343 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5493/14208622948_e2ea7676ef.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_1343"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14391885981" title="IMG_1348 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3856/14391885981_70a3613cd1.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_1348"></a></p></center>
<p>Using a dremmel and palm sander, the rough form was shaped into the round skull. For the face, I cut the outlines for the eyes and nose and glued them to the form. Bondo was then used to blend the shapes into the main form, giving me clean cavities for the eyes and nose. The teeth were shaped using the dremmel’s sanding drum.</p>
<p><center><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14208652770" title="IMG_1351 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2930/14208652770_aebaa372d5.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_1351"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14391885821" title="IMG_1352 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2905/14391885821_3c3e83b73f.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_1352"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14417834386" title="IMG_1360 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2929/14417834386_eb1636b0e9.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_1360"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14440955175" title="IMG_1373 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3926/14440955175_d603d6dd80.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="IMG_1373"></a></center></p>
<p> Unlike Marceline’s bass, I could not use real tuning knobs. Instead I shaped them from brass rod and MDF. Since I can’t use the tuning knobs to tighten the strings, they are screwed directly to the neck under the skull then tied in pairs on the inside of the guitar’s body.</p>
<p><center><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14440954975" title="IMG_1397 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2922/14440954975_590ff85ba9.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_1397"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14440954225" title="IMG_1398 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3903/14440954225_2a6c6bf5b0.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_1398"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14439843044" title="IMG_1400 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2901/14439843044_5f4c0acc52.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_1400"></a></p></center>
<p>Everything else was basically the same as Marceline’s build. The guitar was primed and painted, the strings added, and real knobs were attached using brass rods. The total build time was comparable to Marceline’s, going from start to completion inside of 2 weeks.</p>
<p> While I intended to debut Marshall Lee at Dragon*Con 2014, I decided against it as I currently have no experience with body paint and I did not want to risk getting any on the moon suit while changing between costumes. One of my co-workers, however, decided to borrow it so it did make it to the con. For our project photo shoot David used his photoshop magic to make my skin appear grey. I will post a picture to our facebook page if I ever get around to trying the full make up.</p>
<p><center><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14439842844" title="IMG_1409 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3836/14439842844_f8254ca8db.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_1409"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/16859806135" title="DSCN6940_edited by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7648/16859806135_7dfd19dea9.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="DSCN6940_edited"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/16858651762" title="DSCN6952_edited by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7646/16858651762_7d20b4aaf4.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="DSCN6952_edited"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/16858650202" title="DSCN6955_edited by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7644/16858650202_f240f6fe90.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="DSCN6955_edited"></a></p></center>
<p>This was a very fun build and I am glad to have worked on both guitars. This is probably my last Adventure Time prop for a while but as always we are working on some pretty cool stuff that we hope to share soon. As always thanks for reading!</p>
<p><a href=”https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/sets/72157644704929898”>Click here to see more build pictures on our Flickr page!</a></p>
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- Wayne, 2StoryProps
Waynehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00037588568914291925noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4219958125389265546.post-69251780442367850632015-03-06T10:34:00.000-06:002015-03-06T11:02:51.742-06:00Deadmau5 PinheadWhile most people like to make custom Deadmau5 heads, my prop replicating sensibilities drive me to replicate real Deadmau5 heads instead, take my <a href="http://2storyprops.blogspot.com/2013/01/so-lots-of-you-have-been-asking-about.html">Cheese Head</a> and <a href="http://2storyprops.blogspot.com/2013/12/deadmau5-led-head-v1-non-led-version.html">LED Head</a> for example. In 2014, I really got myself into Halloween. My wife and I decided to host a Halloween party at our house, and I wanted to make costume for it that celebrated both my prop building sensibilities and the spirit of Halloween at the same time. I was already itching to build another Deadmau5 head, and while I had set my sights on the VGA Game Head, I decided to divert that effort onto one of the truly unique heads – the Pinhead from Deadmau5's 2012 Halloween performance. But I couldn’t stop there – When Deadmau5 debuted the head, he wore a full costume with it (being a Halloween show and all). So I opted to build not only the head, but the long Hellraiser-inspired coat and a puzzle box to go with it.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/16529406159" title="DSC_0007 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8635/16529406159_46679cf410.jpg" width="500" height="331" alt="DSC_0007"></a></div><br>
<b>The Pinhead Globe</b><br><br>
I learned a lot from the Cheese Head, and the number one upgrade on my next head would be to switch from an acrylic globe to a polycarbonate globe. The results from the switch were immediately evident. While the head was a tad flexible when I cut the mouth out, I had no worries that it would crack at any of the newly-introduced stress points like on the acrylic globes. This meant that I could build the head free of any sort of added reinforcement. The price of the polycarbonate wasn’t much more than the cost of the acrylic globes either, making the switch a permanent choice going forward.<br><br>
However, I did find something worth noting. The diameter of the acrylic globes is 14”. And while the polycarbonate globes are listed as 14” diameter, they are actually 13.75” diameter. Not noticeable to the naked eye (which is good), but it means you can’t use any of the common measurements for the 14” globe. This meant determining an all-new set of measurements.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/15684345015" title="IMG_20140724_183138 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7570/15684345015_86e2c01672.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="IMG_20140724_183138"></a></div><br>
Once I was happy with the measurements, I did the usual – cut out the mouth and install an MDF inner lip all the way around, and position the eyes. In the photo below, you’ll see that I reinstalled the mouth cutout. This was temporary, and only done for reinforcement. I had to set this build on the back burner for a few weeks at this point, and while I was sure it wouldn’t deform during that time, I didn’t want to risk it.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/15499147707" title="IMG_20140725_122658 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7515/15499147707_334feced03.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140725_122658"></a></div><br>
Next, I needed to come up with the grid system. Thanks to the wonderful photography at Rukes.com, I had enough reference to adequately place the grid lines. I slightly miscalculated the top-most row on the back side of the helmet, but the end results work out well enough.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/15499150027" title="IMG_20140821_215620 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5605/15499150027_e16b5c1ed4.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140821_215620"></a></div><br>
Next was the skin texture. This both excited and terrified me. I knew I wanted to work in Apoxy Sculpt, but I wasn’t sure if it would provide the end result I was looking for in terms of durability. I was afraid that, should I slightly mishandle the head, large chunks of skin would just shear off. Fortunately, the adhesive properties of Apoxy Sculpt worked to my benefit.<br><br>
Starting out, I created a skin stamp out of Super Sculpey by creating a little pancake-shape and lightly tapping it with small, round objects, such as the end of a paint brush. After baking, the impressions in the Super Sculpey would translate into raised bumps in the surface of the Apoxy Sculpt when pressed into it. The photo of the stamp below is actually the one I created for my Pacific Rim Kaiju Skin Louse project, though the one I used for the Pinhead is functionally identical.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9577052263" title="DSCN4773 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3710/9577052263_e440f36579.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN4773"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/15498967818" title="IMG_20140920_142141 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3940/15498967818_51d75821c1.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140920_142141"></a></div><br>
To apply the skin, began by roughly sanding the surface of the globe to give the Apoxy Sculpt more surface area to bite into. Then I simply kneaded out about a golf ball sized lump of Apoxy Sculpt and pressed it onto the sanded surface of the globe, spreading it out while continuing to push it into the surface of the globe. The constant pushing and kneading ensured that the Apoxy Sculpt would take hold of the polycarbonate surface instead of merely sitting atop it. Then, once that section of Apoxy Sculpt was applied, I lightly pressed the skin stamp into it, overlapping each press. After doing that, I used the shaft of a thin paint brush to carve in the grid lines, being careful to follow the grid lines I drew on the globe previously. Working in small amounts of Apoxy Sculpt ensured I would pace myself appropriately to the cure time of the material, but it also allowed me to keep the grid lines in sight. When carving in the grid lines, I was careful to be straight, but I also varied the line and made it intentionally rough. This gave the lines a nice, organic feel to them.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/15685944372" title="IMG_20140907_142605 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7569/15685944372_d43320366e.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140907_142605"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/15685944962" title="IMG_20140907_142617 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3950/15685944962_13df55f4dc.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140907_142617"></a></div><br>
One detail I particularly love was something I found in one of Rukes’ photos, showing what appeared to be holes for a fan. Either the fan was removed or never installed, as the little grid of holes drilled in the head wouldn’t be enough to provide any notable air flow to or from the interior. But countersunk screw holes were found near the fan holes, and being a stickler for fun details, I had to include them.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/15685945322" title="IMG_20140907_142625 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7509/15685945322_714175121d.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140907_142625"></a></div><br>
Next came the pins. Using known dimensions in my reference photos, I extrapolated the size nail I’d need to source. However, 77 nails would have added a considerable weight to the head, which meant I would need to cast lightweight resin nails instead. So I made a mold of 5 nails (so I could cast in groups). Over the casting process, I burned out the mold and needed to remold the nails. I discovered it would be easier to mold 3 nails spaced farther apart, however, since the tiny magnets I would place in the mold prior to casting would push each other around in the first mold.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/15684347675" title="IMG_20140801_190314 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3943/15684347675_4eaf99f232.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140801_190314"></a></div><br>
Tiny magnets, you say? The nails needed to be removable for travel and ease of replacement, so each nail got a tiny cylindrical rare earth magnet embedded in the resin during the casting process. The nails would then magnetize to a socket on the interior of the head, which was made out of laser cut acrylic, and then molded and cast in resin. Each socket had a corresponding rare earth magnet glued in, and the sockets were then glued to the interior of the globe underneath holes drilled in the skin texture’s grid line intersections.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/15498488189" title="IMG_20140731_223627 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7574/15498488189_f942647434.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140731_223627"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/15682429351" title="IMG_20140913_161449 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3943/15682429351_9c3ba53c4e.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140913_161449"></a></div><br>
During a test fitting I discovered that I miscounted and had two extra sockets along the lower jaw line. This meant I had to grind off all that Apoxy Sculpt, redraw new lines, and reapply new skin its place. The old holes were backed with masking tape, and the newly applied Apoxy Sculpt doubled as filler in the old holes. New pin holes were drilled, the interior sockets were relocated, and I was back in business.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/15064992253" title="IMG_20140919_202157 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3941/15064992253_4d0b57ef8c.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140919_202157"></a></div><br>
Part of the weight issues I had with the Cheese Head were the wooden blocks I used to hold the skull cap in place. For the Pinhead, I opted for a lighter-weight solution in the form of some interlocking 1/4" sintra plates. The skullcap, salvaged from the Cheese Head*, would be held in place with some zip ties.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/15499155957" title="IMG_20140920_134345 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8562/15499155957_2cc27ae91a.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140920_134345"></a></div><br>
*The Cheese Head suffered some damage when I moved from my old apartment into my house, and so I opted to salvage the skullcap and the mouth piece from it to save me some time and effort when it came to addressing those components.<br><br>
Next came the eyes. You will have noticed already that I did not put the skin texture over the eye area. Photo references show that the skin texture does in fact sit above the normal surface of the globe because the eyes appear to be recessed into it, so I removed that skin material from the Apoxy Sculpt layer before it fully cured, leaving a nice, clean recessed circle.<br><br>
The vacuum formed eye base plates on the Cheese Head worked out great, and I intend to pursue that as a solution for future heads. However, the Pinhead proved to require 100mm eyes instead of the previously-used 110mm eyes, which meant I either needed to make a new eye base for vacuum forming, or come up with some other solution. I was out of any sort of vacuum forming plastic at the moment, so I opted to fit the interior of the eye with a piece of sintra that would hold a bolt. Effectively I was doing the same thing as the vacuum formed eye base, except it would be permanently installed inside the eyes. At this point, the globe was finished and I could move onto the ears.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/15499547630" title="IMG_20140919_191441 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7502/15499547630_d0496cbb9b.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140919_191441"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/15660651586" title="IMG_20140920_134605 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7502/15660651586_6007662f8a.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140920_134605"></a></div><br>
<b>The Ears</b><br><br>
For months prior to this build, Wayne and I had discussed the possibility of developing a kit. We get lots of requests to build custom heads, but they are simply too time consuming to build and troublesome to safely ship in a consistent manner, so we never take commissions of that sort. The idea of a kit came about where we could offer 2StoryProps-made items for the builder who wants a custom head but doesn’t want to go through all the legwork. Building the Pinhead, and learning from the Cheese Head gave me the opportunity to start on that kit in the form of developing vacuum formed ears.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/15660638356" title="IMG_20140922_185915 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3941/15660638356_041ca81a5e.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140922_185915"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/15064406364" title="IMG_20140922_202151 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3953/15064406364_2bb97dd210.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140922_202151"></a></div><br>
The ears need to be as weightless as you can make them, otherwise the wearer suffers from balance and structural integrity issues. Making vacuum formed ears gave me the opportunity to effectively make hollow ears. However, since the vacuum formed styrene is already so thin, the glued edge needs some kind of backing as reinforcement. The solution is to glue to a foam ring. I could have gotten away with an even thinner ring than the one I cut for the Pinhead ears, but the photo below shows the setup. The puck in the center ensures that the center sections of the ear do not bulge inward. Also, at the point, I made my cuts in the vacuum formed ear panels, since the inner ring would need to follow those contours to allow a sculpting surface later on.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/15499535330" title="IMG_20140924_212012 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7575/15499535330_5314e03b1c.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140924_212012"></a></div><br>
It’s worth noting here that, despite all the effort I put into the ear clip system on the LED head, I opted for the simple bolt-on solution. My deadline for this build was super tight, and I knew I could get away with the bolt-on method in only a few hours as opposed to the several days it may have taken to engineer a way to fit the system in. It’s not off the table for future heads, but this one was just going have to be treated as a special case. Instead of straight threaded rods, I used a large U-bolt , which was secured through the foam ring and out of the vacuum formed plastic shells. Unfortunately, I don’t have photos depicting this.<br><br>
With the ears glued together, I could start my sculpting work on them. Using templates I developed in Adobe Illustrator, I mapped out all the carved lines in the ears. Oddly enough, the ears on the real Pinhead lack the skin texture that the globe has, but has texture in the form of various cuts and stretch/tear lines. After drawing the cut lines, I lightly etched them out with my dremel. I knew I couldn’t etch too far into the thin plastic, so I really just barely scraped the dremel along the surface, enough to gouge out a shallow groove, but not deep enough to break through the shell.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/15498950668" title="IMG_20140927_151632 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3950/15498950668_7e4985b2b3.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140927_151632"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/15685933232" title="IMG_20140927_165542 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8544/15685933232_caa5442f5c.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140927_165542"></a></div><br>
Following the carved detail, I filled in the foam surface of the open chunks with Apoxy Sculpt, creating an uneven, undulating surface texture. The texture on my ear chunks is far more basic than that of the real one, and only done so out of a lack of reference. However, I knew that the surfaces I sculpted would look just as gross once the final clear coat was applied, so I was happy to gloss over it in favor of progress. Once the ear chunks were sculpted and everything was sanded, I was able to begin painting.<br><br>
<b>The Paint</b><br><br>
The paintjob on this was super fun. I really can’t get over how exciting it was to see this come together, and how excited I was to see how well it came out in the end. After applying a basecoat of simple white spray paint across the globe and ears, I used the airbrush to apply several layers of varied washes of grays and tans. I also airbrushed all the grid lines and various cuts in the globe and ears with some red to simulate enflamed skin around all the cuts. After the airbrush work was done, I used a toothbrush to spray tiny black dots all over the surface of the globe. This was actually the trickiest part, since the toothbrush doesn’t hold a lot paint, and you have to constantly test spray it, lest you spray way too much black paint on a paint job you can’t exactly touch up easily.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/15064409034" title="IMG_20140921_180649 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7473/15064409034_d95cab06a9.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140921_180649"></a></div><br>
The last touch to the paint detail work was some blood red paint applied in all the grid lines and cuts in the ears. After that brush work had dried, I applied a Spar Urethane semi-gloss clear coat over everything to both protect it and to give it a sort of gross, moist look. The neat part about Spar Urethane in regards to this particular project I that it has an ever-so-slight yellowish tint to it, which added to the gross, sickly color of the skin. I was literally jumping up in down in joy after seeing the final result. Certainly, I have plenty more to learn about airbrushing, but I couldn’t have asked for a better result at the time. I still get giddy looking at it up close!<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/15660640116" title="IMG_20140921_233409 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3944/15660640116_509da43c0d.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140921_233409"></a></div><br>
To finish off the head, the eyes were painted black with a satin clear coat over them, and the mouth was painted to a high-sheen black, accurate to the real head. Red automotive strip LEDs were wired up and installed in the lower jaw, and wired to an exterior battery pack. I’m adamant about replicating the logistical details on these Deadmau5 heads, and installing that cord coming out the back of the head was something I needed to see done. I didn’t have time to source the actual battery pack, so the battery pack is actually borrowed from the LED head. Should I come across the real battery pack later on, it’s a simple soldering job to replace it.<br><br>
<b>The Jacket</b><br><br>
There’s not a lot to say about the jacket, other than I made a jacket. Aside from the interesting straps and Hellraiser style pattern, it’s not really all that remarkable of a garment in terms of construction. To make it worse, it ended up being a huge rush job, and I’m really not happy with the end result. Having improperly identified the waist, the upper half is actually too long on my body. I mean, if you’re not looking for it, you don’t notice it too much. But being that I’m the tailor for my own tailor-made coat, I notice it immediately. For what it is, however, it does the job and I really can’t complain too much when paired with the head in the final photos.<br><br>
It began as a series of custom patterns I developed on my duct tape mannequin. I used muslin to produce the patterns since it doesn’t stretch, and while I would have liked to use a more supple (and more accurate) garment leather, my budget restricted me to locally-sourced vinyl. So at least the final material didn’t stretch either, which made the patterning process go a lot smoother. I knew that if the patterned muslin version moved a certain way on my body, the final piece would act similarly.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/16528028660" title="IMG_20141007_220436 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8602/16528028660_e63ff51dcf.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="IMG_20141007_220436"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/16714380782" title="IMG_20141008_230330 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8659/16714380782_17b48f7616.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="IMG_20141008_230330"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/16714165731" title="IMG_20141008_230348 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8645/16714165731_ffcf9d0e4e.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="IMG_20141008_230348"></a></div><br>
For detailing, I attempted to source the same buckles used on the real jacket, but couldn’t find anything locally or in the right size online, which meant I had to come up with my own version. My deadline was coming up super quick, and since the head was the centerpiece, I opted to go lo-fi on the jacket details. The buckles ended up being laser cut acrylic, as did the three tools that hung at the waist.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/16528024160" title="IMG_20141018_215043 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8632/16528024160_abd5db7207.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="IMG_20141018_215043"></a></div><br>
<b>The Puzzle Box</b><br><br>
To complete the full costume, I needed a puzzle box! The reference material I had and the research I did produced conflicting results. It appears that the puzzle box Deadmau5 had with him was a transparent red acrylic box with raised, gold detailing. I found a transparent brown acrylic bank version of the puzzle box online, but it was far too large. Additionally, other puzzle boxes I found online were either opaque black plastic, or expensive wooden replicas with brass inlays. I didn’t care enough about this particular component to worry about it too much, so I found a vinyl decal seller on ebay who produces printed vinyl decal replicas of the puzzle box patterns. I ordered a set and applied them to a simple sintra box I built. I didn’t want to bother with attempting to integrate transparent red acrylic with opaque metal foil decals, so I just made the base cube black.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/15685934492" title="IMG_20140926_183537 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3945/15685934492_8cce42f1b9.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140926_183537"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/15682415741" title="IMG_20140927_224338 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3951/15682415741_789216c12c.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="IMG_20140927_224338"></a></div><br>
<b>Post Build</b><br><br>
While I’m not exactly happy with the jacket, I am happy with the overall result of the costume. I am super pleased with the head itself, and in my opinion it’s one of my more visually impressive builds to-date. What’s even more impressive is that this was done all inside of a two month period, which is lightning fast for me, especially having just finished the exhausting Dawnguard build!<br><br>
During the build, I thought that this costume would be perfect to photograph at Sloss Furnace in Birmingham, AL, so some of the final photos below are of that photoshoot. Initially I was deadset on not making any convention appearances in this costume due to the fragility of the pins and the ease in which they can be yanked out and stolen. With the trouble I had at Dragon Con in my Cheese Head (people putting items through the ear holes, general rough manhandling while wearing the head, etc.), I’m pretty sure this won’t make a Dragon Con appearance any time soon. However, I might bring it to some smaller, less-crowded conventions in the near future. It will definitely make an appearance at GMX 2015, since that happens over Halloween itself!<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/15499678720" title="DSCN6751_edited by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3955/15499678720_7c14958f2b.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="DSCN6751_edited"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/16714480442" title="DSC_9907 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8645/16714480442_9582ac5ca6.jpg" width="500" height="331" alt="DSC_9907"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/16528207370" title="DSC_0715 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8665/16528207370_f55fd1d4b0.jpg" width="331" height="500" alt="DSC_0715"></a></div><br>
Check out the rest of the progress photos and final photos in the <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/sets/72157649083221775/">Flickr album</a>!<br><br>
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- David, 2StoryProps
David Reimerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00822001040100771573noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4219958125389265546.post-79986317702955260132015-03-04T10:21:00.000-06:002015-03-04T11:07:11.669-06:00Skyrim: Dawnguard War Axe, Part 1I had originally intended to build this along with the rest of the Dawnguard costume (for more info, check out <a href="http://2storyprops.blogspot.com/2014/07/skyrim-dawnguard-part-1.html">Part 1</a>, <a href="http://2storyprops.blogspot.com/2014/09/skyrim-dawnguard-part-2.html">Part 2</a>, and <a href="http://2storyprops.blogspot.com/2015/03/skyrim-dawnguard-part-3.html">Part 3</a>), but my deadline was looming and I needed to set it aside because it was going to end up being a considerable build. I opted for the smaller, quicker build of the Nordic Daggers for my Dragon Con 2014 accessory. 2015 rolls in and I’ve picked up some energy to clear out old projects on my back burner. At the time I’ve written this blog entry, most of the work on the axe’s master components has long since been completed, so I’m writing all this from memory. Forgive me if I gloss over something.<br><br>
I began by sourcing my own reference material from the game. I created a set of blueprints in Adobe Illustrator, and determined a scale based on how big it was compared to the player model. I know the player model’s height is variable, but going with my own player’s model, I determined the axe’s length, and it just felt “right” when finally brought into the real world.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/16623826951" title="axe_schematics by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8666/16623826951_e4ac54e982.jpg" width="489" height="500" alt="axe_schematics"></a></div><br>
<b>The Axe Head</b><br><br>
I knew the axe head was going to be where 90% of the extensive detailing was going to be, so I started on that first. I used a laser cutter to cut out several sintra panels that would later be assembled over an MDF core. Please note, laser cutting sintra produces toxic vapors and is not recommended. The laser cutter I use is very well-ventilated, and I let the sintra panels degass for several moments before removing them from the laser cutter. Still not great – don’t try it - but it’s probably the best practice I could have had when doing it. You may ask why I use sintra in the laser cutter anyways, and that’s fair! I use sintra for stuff like this is because it’s far easier to flex and work with using hand tools for certain applications. If the parts I needed were perfectly flat and I didn’t anticipate needing to tool them by hand, I would opt for the much safer acrylic. Regardless of the material I used, the laser cutter I have access to can only cut up to a certain size, so I needed to jigsaw the larger components together onto the MDF core.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/16437759908" title="IMG_20140315_172835 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8639/16437759908_66ef983d75.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140315_172835"></a></div><br>
The core MDF pieces were also run through the laser cutter to produce the same exact outlines. The only difference is that I did not cut all the way through – I only etched the outlines. The laser cutter isn’t powerful enough to cut through 3/4" MDF, of course, so the etched lines were used as guidelines for cutting on a scroll saw. After all the MDF pieces were cut out, they were assembled with some wood glue, and then the blade edge and rear taper were shaped with a dremel and belt sander.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/16598974196" title="IMG_20140316_210709 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8677/16598974196_c23c8ff476.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140316_210709"></a></div><br>
Once the MDF core was done, I glued the inner filigree layer onto their appropriate sides. I then added the little pits inside the filigree by slightly pushing a drill into the MDF core. Had I used a softer material for the core, I could have possibly produced the correct square pits with a shaped nail or something, but I didn’t think to use any softer material at the time so I just went with it. If this were a stand-alone build, it would have seemed like a lazy alternative that would be hard to justify that to myself, but given the time crunch circumstances at the time, it was a minor detail I could bring myself to alter in order to speed up the production.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/16624932945" title="IMG_20140317_221432 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8577/16624932945_f33243b999.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140317_221432"></a></div><br>
After all the filigree and inner pitting was complete, I added the outer raised rim layer of sintra and filled in the corner edge gaps with Bondo. You’ll also note that I have included a little slot on the sides of the axe head. This will come into play later when I would build the straps.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/16623833301" title="IMG_20140321_174039 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8656/16623833301_b581bbd5a8.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="IMG_20140321_174039"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/16005180783" title="IMG_20140321_174104 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8636/16005180783_06a11efd44.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140321_174104"></a></div><br>
To finish off the main construction on the axe head, I hogged out a big hole in the bottom with a drill press, which would later become a socket for the grip shaft to plug in. Much later into the build, this socket would be lined in thin styrene to accommodate for a miscalculation on the grip shaft.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/16623834361" title="IMG_20140321_193837 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8665/16623834361_416de0b0c8.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140321_193837"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/16002776274" title="DSCN7099a by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8680/16002776274_f8c1b4d40e.jpg" width="296" height="500" alt="DSCN7099a"></a></div><br>
<b>The Grip</b><br><br>
On account of its lack of detail, the grip was perhaps the easiest component to sculpt. Made from MDF, the grip was carved with my dremel, and close attention was paid to the uneven, hand-hewn, rough-cut form of the in-game object. I do not have any photos showing this detail, but after the base form was sculpted, I carved in some wood grain. A tab was also sculpted into the top of it to fit into the socket on the axe head.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/16005184343" title="IMG_20140324_075209 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8669/16005184343_caa2a7b527.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140324_075209"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/16624280882" title="IMG_20140405_164050 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8628/16624280882_696728e755.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140405_164050"></a></div><br>
<b>The Straps</b><br><br>
Now I don’t know what these are called. I just call them “straps” because they hold the axe head to the shaft, but they are the metal bands running along the side of the axe head. Like the grip, the straps were made from MDF and were sculpted with my dremel and belt sander. Getting the geometry on these just right was incredible tricky as the bottom surface on one end needed to step down toward the grip’s diameter, and the other end needed to curl inward toward the rear taper on the axe head. Deriving that shape from a flat sheet of MDF proved to be an interesting exercise to say the least. For the first one I sculpted, I had to notch it, flex it apart, and install some tiny shims to adjust the curvature. The opposite side’s strap benefited from learning on the first one and was sculpted correctly.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/16624951465" title="DSCN7100 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8623/16624951465_f277712836.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN7100"></a></div><br>
The straps are moderately detailed with some rivets on them, and I used the same furniture tacks I used on the Dawnguard vest straps. This was partly so it would tie the axe to the costume in terms of shared details, but also because they ended up being the correct size according to my blueprints. To install them, I drilled out tiny holes and glued the tacks in place. Then I ground off the protruding pins with my dremel and smoothed out the transition from strap to rivet with a little bit of clay.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/16624957435" title="DSCN7103 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8587/16624957435_2294d771b2.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN7103"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/16507598618" title="DSCN7193 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8636/16507598618_c11f171758.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN7193"></a><br>(No clay seam, left. Clay seam added, right.)</div><br>
To finish off the straps, I made some little tabs that would match the little slots on the sides of the axe head (additionally, slots would later be carved into the grip as well). I could have very well laser cut more tabs from the schematic, but I was already molding something else, so I figured I’d just make a little mold of the tab to help use up the remaining rubber I had on hand. A little less straightforward, but it meant I wouldn’t have to make a special trip to the community shop to use the laser cutter. Castings of the tabs were glued in place on the undersides of the straps. These tabs and corresponding slots, while loose-fitting, are intended to allow for quick final assembly down the road.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/16624960415" title="DSCN7104 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8570/16624960415_1e30f43ba4.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN7104"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/16072880454" title="DSCN7185 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8627/16072880454_f40c2ba570.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN7185"></a></div><br>
After some minor cleanup on all the parts, some primer, and a little polishing, the parts are now ready to be molded. Part 2 will come after the axe is completed.<br><br>
Check out the rest of the progress photos in the <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/sets/72157650988748611/">Flickr album</a>!<br><br>
Don’t forget to <a href="https://www.facebook.com/2StoryProps">check us out on Facebook</a>! Like our page to follow us weekly with project updates, How2 Tips, and convention appearances.<br><br>
- David, 2StoryProps
David Reimerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00822001040100771573noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4219958125389265546.post-68671846128831517882015-03-02T10:14:00.000-06:002015-03-02T10:14:45.820-06:00Skyrim: Dawnguard, Part 3This final installment of the Dawnguard Heavy Armor costume is a bit late, but I hadn’t had the energy to devote toward writing for a while. As previously mentioned, Part 3 will go over the creation of the armor components and the various greeblies throughout the costume. Part 1, which discusses the creation of the helmet and the Nordic Daggers, can be found <a href="http://2storyprops.blogspot.com/2014/07/skyrim-dawnguard-part-1.html">here</a>. Part 2, which discusses the creation of the fabric components of the costume, can be found <a href="http://2storyprops.blogspot.com/2014/09/skyrim-dawnguard-part-2.html">here</a>. Onto the armor!<br><br>
<b>The Armor</b><br><br>
Most Skyrim costumes you see right now are foam builds. I’ve seen great work come from it, certainly, but my build style is geared more toward an older cinematic, special effects style of build sensibility. I knew that I needed my armor to be lightweight and strong, so that meant vacuum forming as much of it as I could. But I couldn’t just jump into sculpting stuff. For costume this full of detail, it all had to be proportioned right, which meant I had to finish the cloth components before I could make any sort of final measurements on the armor. Basically, I measured the armor plates out according to the final dimensions on the vest, so I knew they’d all fit correctly. Furthermore, since the vest has nearly 100 plates* on it, I didn’t want them all to be the same. I created measurements for a basic size and taller, shorter, thinner, and wider sizes. The varying sizes account for how the vest sits on my body, and that one size of plate would most certainly leave gaps in the plate spacing. <br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14533698223" title="IMG_20140614_222837 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3893/14533698223_90c42b1f33.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140614_222837"></a></div><br>
*Note, the in-game model has 104 plates on the vest, if I recall correctly (I may be wrong, but it was over 100 plates). I had earnestly attempted to fit all 104 plates on the vest, but due to introduced errors in the vacuum formed armor pulls, I had to eliminate one full row of armor all the way around, as well as an additional row around the back. Had I pulled a few more of the shorter plates, I could possibly have kept that one back row, but I figured it’d be best to truck on with what I had. Besides, at a difference of 10 plates over an excessively detailed costume, the difference would really only be known to myself, and never really identifiable anyways.<br><br>
The armor bucks were sculpted out of MDF and some wooden dowels. I didn’t want to lock myself into riveting each and every armor plate 4 times, so I opted to include the rivets in the pulls by inserting little wooden dowels into the corners of every armor buck. A little tedium now meant considerably less tedium later. After the bucks were sculpted, I pulled the armor plates in styrene on our vacuum former. The plates were then cut out and individually sanded.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14327008648" title="IMG_20140619_220035 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5583/14327008648_6367100fd2.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140619_220035"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/wcV7qLL0eyQ" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14512469992" title="IMG_20140621_202633 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5472/14512469992_9632467f25.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140621_202633"></a></div><br>
To affix the plates to the vest, I used industrial-strength, adhesive-backed Velcro on the armor itself, and sew-on Velcro on the vest. It took over 25 feet of Velcro to accomplish this, but that purchasing was made easier by using both the hook and loop sides across the costume. Doing so also made arranging the plates easier, as I could assign hook side armor to the front, loop side armor to the back (for example). Sewing the Velcro onto the vest actually went rather quickly, since I could pin the pieces on in groups and sew entire blocks of Velcro on in one sitting. I would sew across one full line (pulling the foot up and skipping over the gaps, of course) instead of stitching each piece of Velcro individually. I don’t have any photos of that process, but you can see the Velcro in the following paint photo.<br><br>
Painting the armor plates took some time, however, since they all needed to be handled individually. Priming and base coating the armor was simple spray paint work I could do in my back yard on a huge sheet of cardboard. However, the Dawnguard seem to have custom paint work on their armor plates – some are blue (like mine), some are gray (over gray metal.. weird, I know), some are brown, and one is red. Ah, variants. But since this costume is a fantasy equivalent to, say, a medieval-era uniform, that meant I had to hand-paint the custom color onto each and every plate. So in the following photo, you can see how I went from a primed plate, to a base coated silver plate, to a blue hand-painted plate, and finally to a weathered, finished plate.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14412213227" title="IMG_20140705_182811 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3838/14412213227_b5b02cb725.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="IMG_20140705_182811"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14598629745" title="IMG_20140707_081939 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5500/14598629745_489f69618a.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="IMG_20140707_081939"></a></div><br>
The shoulders and knees, while also vacuum formed ABS, were a slightly different process. I modeled in them in 3D using Rhino and processed them through Pepakura so I could produce a paper model of them. Using resin to harden the paper, I took to sculpting the final shoulder and knee components in Bondo to produce vacuum forming bucks.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14858358088" title="IMG_20140726_170936 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3866/14858358088_77df3b4a42.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140726_170936"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14858358898" title="IMG_20140728_183843 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5579/14858358898_138a21a31d.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140728_183843"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14858237229" title="IMG_20140728_203107 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3838/14858237229_e8c97cdaf9.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140728_203107"></a></div><br>
The shoulder armor had to sit on my shoulder and arm in a particular manner, so I couldn’t just strap them up. I needed the scalloped plates to have some kind of gaps between them, so when strapping them up, I placed some foam ridges inside them to maintain an immovable buffer between the plates. Doing so enhances the scalloped look so that there’s no mistaking each set of shoulder armor for a single, large piece.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14858405187" title="IMG_20140802_003643 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3904/14858405187_ebea553010.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140802_003643"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/15021975486" title="IMG_20140816_143127 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3871/15021975486_87ed2eb94a.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="IMG_20140816_143127"></a></div><br>
Bob Ross, famed painting TV show host and artist, often talked about and embraced his “happy accidents” – unintentional occurrences that he’d work into the final painting. He very much believed in the infinite variety and random arrangement of plants and land features found in nature, and worked his accidental brush strokes into his paintings under that belief, instead of discarding them or trying to hide them. I had a very similar experience in pulling my shoulder armor. The plastic cooked under the heating element a little too long and began to melt, which resulted in an ugly, pitted appearance. Ordinarily I’d have to attempt to fill it in with Bondo or otherwise discard the piece, but since this costume is supposed to be a mass-produced kind of uniform, I opted to keep the pitted plastic shoulders so that they’d look like pitted metal. When weathering them, the pitting really jumped out and looked phenomenal. I can’t exactly recommend you try to overheat your plastic when vacuum forming, but instances such as this are awesome little happy accidents.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/15044965505" title="IMG_20140815_230742 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5570/15044965505_0baa9b09fa.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140815_230742"></a></div><br>
Since the shoulders would be large, noticeable components on the costume, I wanted the weathering to really stand out. I used the same weathering technique that I used on the helmet, but I’ll recap here. Prior to any paint work, I used my dremel to add in some physical weathering. Then the armor was primed and base-coated, and then dusted over lightly with a darker base coat color to tone it down a little. I then gave it several washes in blacks and browns to help bring out the details. But you can’t weather in a regular, even approach or else it will look too patterned and planned. So I then took a more local approach with some brush work here and there, applying darker weathering sporadically around the part. To finalize the paint job, I hit the highlights with a little bit of Rub N Buff.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14858367798" title="IMG_20140802_163137 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3900/14858367798_2b5ff79d6c.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="IMG_20140802_163137"></a></div><br>
I don’t have many photos of the knee armor, but it went through the same process. The knees were padded out with some foam to bring them out from my knee a little bit, and then painted in a bronze color and weathered in the same manner as previously mentioned. In lieu of any sort of progress photo, here’s a photo of some of the components neatly arranged on a table for some reason.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/15044963665" title="IMG_20140812_181255 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5574/15044963665_436a1960e1.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140812_181255"></a></div><br>
<b>Greeblies and Miscellaneous Components</b><br><br>
The belt was probably the most labor-intensive component among the greeblies, so I’ll discuss it first. It’s quite deceptively simple. I looked around at various Halloween websites to see if I could find some sort of reasonable store-bought solution, as time was beginning to become a major factor. I couldn’t find anything remotely close, as I suspected I wouldn’t, so I had to make it. It’s some sort of diamond-shaped chain, so I sculpted two of the links and made a mold. Wayne helped me cast several dozen copies of each link, after which I glued them all together and onto a piece of MDF so I could make a mold of al of them together. I decided that I only needed to mold about 3 feet of the belt, and I could cast up two belts and attach them where necessary. I would have excess belt length in the end, but I’d rather have it too long than not having enough there.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14595344871" title="IMG_20140705_172951 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2901/14595344871_4f4d3bbd34.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140705_172951"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14858388327" title="IMG_20140714_215717 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5554/14858388327_ed2a2b1658.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="IMG_20140714_215717"></a></div><br>
I really wanted to cast it out of foam. That would keep it nice and light. However, I was apparently doing everything right, but I could never get it to work out. The foam would keep collapsing. Without time or money to keep troubleshooting the foam method, I switched gears and sourced some other materials from Reynolds Advanced Materials (my go-to Smooth On distributor). I’m sure there are plenty of other rubbers I could have used, but I opted for Mold Max 14NV, which is a very soft, very flexible rubber that is compatible with the dye I already had on hand. Furthermore, it was compatible with the rubber I used for the belt mold.** The castings came out beautifully, and they ended up not being too heavy for the costume. I did have some trouble painting and weathering them, however, but I found Rub N Buff and little black acrylic worked ok. It’s definitely a temporary solution, as I have yet to find any paint that wouldn’t flake off this rubber. It’s easy to touch up, though, and once it’s on the costume, it’s not going to be flexing too much anyways.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14858409387" title="IMG_20140804_210305 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5592/14858409387_4fc730c5e6.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140804_210305"></a></div><br>
** It turns out that the rubber used for the belt technically isn’t compatible with the rubber I used for the mold. Initially, 14NV was listed as a urethane rubber. However, Reynolds AM’s website is still relatively new, and some months after the fact, they have corrected it to show it being a silicone rubber. Silicones are supposed to bond directly to other silicones without any sort of release agent between the two, and I wasn’t using any sort of release agent. So I got lucky, lesson learned, but I’m happy it all worked out anyways. Whew!<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/15044596702" title="IMG_20140802_130201 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5586/15044596702_10a8d014f1.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140802_130201"></a></div><br>
The belt buckle was some more laser cut sintra, this time slightly bent after assembly to give it more depth. The part was clayed up and molded, and a casting was later affixed to the front of a quick-clip for final belt assembly. And I don’t have any photos showing this part, but the rubber components of the belt were actually sewn (by hand) to a length of Velcro so it could be attached to the costume. For costumes like this where proportions are important, it’s always good to be able to affix belts and similar items in place so they don’t slip down your body or otherwise move around.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14858301660" title="IMG_20140729_182032 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5578/14858301660_441ff51355.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140729_182032"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14858305410" title="IMG_20140802_155909 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3887/14858305410_a5a2c1955a.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140802_155909"></a></div><br>
The buckles throughout the costume, like the studs on the skirt panels, were sculpted from some 1/4” sintra and then molded. Wayne helped cast them for me while I frantically worked on the rest of the costume. Later, after the costume had been completed, the designer of the in-game Dawnguard armor actually found my work and contacted me, apologizing to me for the excessive number of buckles. After the castings were made, they were affixed to their various components, two of which were some leather belts. I didn’t have the time or money to source actual leather, so I whipped up some quick vinyl belts instead, since they were not going to be load-lifting. They will be upgraded to actual leather in the coming months, however.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14412024718" title="IMG_20140707_081846 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3849/14412024718_723ebefaeb.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140707_081846"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14858369608" title="IMG_20140809_154938 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3876/14858369608_b55a68949a.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140809_154938"></a></div><br>
The little medallion that sits at the base of the neck was my second venture into 3D printing. I knew I could sculpt it by hand, but I figured I’d try out one local source for 3D printing. I modeled something resembling the medallion (it’s kind of a difficult item to see up close in reference imagery) and we printed two of them. After several heavy coats of primer, they were molded and cast in resin. Sure, I could have just used the 3D printed piece itself, but I had long-since figured I’d offer kits at some point, so I needed to mold as many components as I could, the medallion being one of them. The final medallion, after being painted and weathered, had a safety pin attached to the back of it so it could simply be pinned in place on the shirt.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14858346058" title="IMG_20140713_144816 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3903/14858346058_e4f5229107.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140713_144816"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/15044932245" title="IMG_20140714_212349 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3912/15044932245_173325dab3.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140714_212349"></a></div><br>
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The last detail, at least in time for its Dragon Con 2014 debut, would be the book that is attached to the belt. I debated for a while on whether it was a book or some kind of pouch, but the texture on the sides let me to decide it was a book. And it made sense to me, since the Dawnguard are vampire hunters, I figured it may be some kind of small spell book or prayer book for their protection. So I found some thick Arches Cover water color paper, tore it down (for the rough edges), and bound it together. Using a template I developed, a friend in Nashville created the leather cover for the book. I later stamped the Dawnguard sun emblem into it with some laser cut acrylic and weathered the pages by burning their edges. After doing some washes on the leather cover, it was looped over the belt, and I could call the detailing finished.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/15021958876" title="IMG_20140728_183905a by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3876/15021958876_2f9d29e74d.jpg" width="500" height="216" alt="IMG_20140728_183905a"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/15041910501" title="IMG_20140816_142043 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3866/15041910501_e96849aa9b.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="IMG_20140816_142043"></a></div><br>
The absolute final touch was a bit of airbrushing to really bring it in. To get subtle aging on cloth, you could all the time in the world spot dying, coffee staining, and hand painting everything. But with only a few weeks before Dragon Con, I needed a quick solution, so I airbrushed various color effects all over every cloth component on the costume.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/15041904101" title="IMG_20140811_185851 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3903/15041904101_b56f113e43.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140811_185851"></a><br>(Airbrushed, left. Not airbrushed, right.)</div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14858310420" title="IMG_20140812_080030 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3926/14858310420_5e9b82fb76.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="IMG_20140812_080030"></a></div><br>
<b>Post Build</b><br><br>
In closing, I hadn’t built a full costume this detailed in quite a while. In fact, I hadn’t worked on a project to this degree since our ODST costumes from 2010! Since then, it has mostly been props, single costume components, or costumes that only required purchased goods for the components I didn’t produce myself (such as the tuxedos for our Daft Punk costumes). I’m super excited to have completed it, though, and it’s a wonderful project in the long-term as well, considering how exceedingly modular the players’ costumes can be in Skyrim itself. I can make any number of helmets or weapons from Skyrim, and still have a costume I can wear them with and it all fits within the established lore.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14858752670" title="IMG_3753_edited by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3837/14858752670_62ecabb723.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="IMG_3753_edited"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14858848118" title="IMG_3674_edited by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5568/14858848118_8ee60b7822.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="IMG_3674_edited"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/15045072242" title="IMG_3680_edited by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3909/15045072242_f230a25a5a.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="IMG_3680_edited"></a></div><br>
I really learned a lot from building this costume too. I mean I know mold making, I know vacuum forming, I know all these different types of crafting. But what I really learned was gauging my workload, scheduling individual parts assembly, managing my own deadlines, and expanding on current knowledge. Skyrim costumes really kick your ass when you get into the knitty gritty, and if you want to build toward a certain quality, you really have to learn to pace yourself.<br><br>
<a href="http://2storyprops.blogspot.com/2014/07/skyrim-dawnguard-part-1.html">Part 1</a> – Dawnguard Full Helmet and Nordic Daggers<br><br>
<a href="http://2storyprops.blogspot.com/2014/09/skyrim-dawnguard-part-2.html">Part 2</a> – Fabric components to the Dawnguard Heavy Armor<br><br>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/sets/72157640552352423/">Flickr Album</a> – Visual documentation of the building process<br><br>
Don’t forget to <a href="https://www.facebook.com/2StoryProps">check us out on Facebook</a>! Like our page to follow us weekly with project updates, How2 Tips, and convention appearances.<br><br>
- David, 2StoryProps
David Reimerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00822001040100771573noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4219958125389265546.post-78865321377052892332014-11-13T21:19:00.000-06:002014-11-13T21:19:00.382-06:00Dalek Repairs and Upgrades 2014<p>Back in 2011 I was trying to find a cool project to build for the next Dragon*Con when I was introduced to Doctor Who. I though the Daleks were really neat characters, but the fact I had never seen one at any of the conventions I attended made this a very tempting project. After I heard that there was going to be a Doctor Who convention here in Huntsville I had the last push I needed and got to work. After about 5 months of wood working and 3 months of electronics, I had my very own Dalek, whom I’ve named Braun after the famous rocket scientist.</p>
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<p>Since his debut at Con Kasterborous 2012, Braun has had a very interesting life. He won an award in the 2012 Dragon*Con masquerade cosplaying as the scariest thing he could think of (The Doctor), has helped raise money for charity at GMX 2013, and as of now has been the flower girl in four weddings, complete with pneumatic flower cannons! Everywhere he has been the reaction has been great and has led to some really interesting stories.</p>
<p> During all this time however, Braun has been getting a little beat up. He acquired quite a few dings and scratches over the last two years, but nothing too bad. However, during Kami Con 2014 his plunger arm caught one of the mascot’s dresses and the support box finally gave way.</p>
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<p>The damage itself wasn’t too bad. What was bad was the fact that the paint I used originally was discontinued, so I had no way to do a touch up that would blend into the existing paint. After searching several stores I found Rustoleum Aged Copper at Home Depot. It was a close match, but not close enough. Thus, my simple repair suddenly became a long process of repainting the entire Dalek!</p>
<p> The first step was to remove all the non-copper colored parts from the Dalek. The slats were simple enough as they are held on by bolts. The hemispheres on the other hand had to be peeled off and all the old hot glue removed. Since this process damaged the finish on the skirt, I had to re-putty and finish the whole thing.</p>
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<p>To help keep the arm on in the future, I reinforced the arm block with small pieces of wood. The cover was then epoxied back on and blended with the body so you can’t see the seam. With all the dents filled in, Braun was repainted and reassembled. I really like his new color as the old paint left blotches. It’s hard to see in pictures but the new finish is much more even and more metallic than before.</p>
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<p> With Braun down for repairs anyway, I decided it was time to fix something that has bothered me for two years. When I built Braun I had no idea how to build a robot, and time was running out for Dragon*Con. I decided to go quick and simple and put his head on one center mounted gear-down motor. This let me rotate the head, but would not let the eye move up and down. Thus for the first 2 years Braun could only look a person in the eye if they were a specific height.</p>
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The old set up. The center mounted motor has already been removed.</center>
<p>The first thing I had to do was get rid of the gear down motor in the center of Braun’s head. In its place I added a slip ring. This device allows the head to rotate fully while maintaining electrical connections. I purchased a 6 wire model to allow 3 for the servo and two for the new rotating motors.</p>
<p> In order to make Braun look left and right, I had to add a new motor that would drive his head using a wheel that would ride on the top of his neck. For this process, I had to balance the motor’s rpms and the drive wheel diameter such that the head would not spin too fast. After crunching some numbers in excel, I settled on two 300 rpm high torque motors. My co-worker Jason was nice enough to machine the drive wheels out of aluminum. The tires are thick o-rings. As before, the motor system is controlled by a 10 amp speed controller in Braun’s body.</p>
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<p>Making the eye move up and down involved a fair amount of math and compromise. I usually try to keep these write ups from being too technical, but there are two concepts you will need to be familiar with to understand how this works. First, in order to make an object rotate a torque must be applied. The amount of torque is equal to the force in the direction of rotation times the distance the force is applied. Thus, if you want to increase torque, you either need to increase the force or how far the force is from the point of rotation. This is why wrenches work because they are increasing the distance in the equation. The other property is that the force of a spring is equal to the distance it is stretched times its spring constant. As far as how this applies to the Dalek, well start with the eye stalk itself. The eye stalk only weighs about 1 pound, but the center of gravity is about 12 inches from the pivot point. This means the eye is providing 12 inch pounds of torque on the pivot. In order for the eye to stay in one position, an equal torque must be applied in the opposite direction. Since the pivot point of the actuation system can only be 1.5 inches from the pivot due to the design, the required force holding force is 8 pounds! Most servos cannot provide that amount of force. Thus I needed a way to balance the eye with a spring.</p>
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<p>Using an excel spread sheet and plugging in several spring options from McMaster, I finally had a system that worked (on paper at least). I ordered the parts and built up the balancing mechanism. Turns out I was within a fraction of an inch of being balanced! The final component was to add the servo. The location of the servo is designed so the full 45 degree range of motion of the eye matches with full up and full down on the controller (this is the channel that normally controls throttle on airplanes). Originally I was going to use a 66 oz-in servo, but found it could not move the momentum of the eye. I then upgraded to a 240 oz-in servo which solved the issue. After two years Braun could finally move his eye stalk up and down! I found through a few events that this simple change adds a lot of emotion to Braun and helps his seem more life-like.</p>
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<p> You may recall I mentioned Braun has been a flower girl on several occasions. Braun’s part time job started when our friend Daniel, who gave us the wheel chair motors that drive Braun, asked if the Dalek could be in his wedding. Initially I assumed Braun was going to be the ring bearer, but another friend’s R2D2 had that job. As a joke, I suggest Braun be the flower girl and, “Shoot flowers at people as it goes down the aisle.” A few days later Dan calls me asking if we can fit pneumatic cannon on the Dalek. He shows up with this copper ring system that contains four solenoid valves, which I then connected to the 12 channel remote that runs Braun’s sound effects. The flower petals are then propelled by a small paintball tank hidden inside the Dalek.</p>
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<p>Having taken Braun to numerous events I always seem to receive questions about things Braun can’t do or features they think should be added. The three most common are;</p>
<p>Why don’t the arms move?</p>
<p>Why don’t the ear lights flash?</p>
<p>Why don’t you set up a system so you can talk real time through Braun?</p>
<p>I had plans to make the arms move, but at every event there is always someone who will yank on Braun’s arms. If he had a mechanism to move them, they likely would be broken by this action, so for the time being the arms will remain stagnant. The lights are a project I hope to address, but the voice I like to leave as a recording so I don’t have to wear a microphone. The ear lights are something we will likely fix at a later date.</p>
<p>This write up is a little bit behind. Like several months. Braun’s new features and paint have been seen at several events now and I am just glad to have him running around and scaring people again, and I hope to have keep him operational for many years to come. We have a few items currently finished that will have write ups coming soon and we are hard at work on some new items as well. Thanks for reading and stay tuned!</p>
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<p><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/sets/72157643677534805/">Click here for more pictures of Braun's rebuild and upgrades!</a></p>
Waynehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00037588568914291925noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4219958125389265546.post-88906608040075338962014-09-23T16:07:00.000-05:002014-09-23T16:07:12.123-05:00Skyrim: Dawnguard, Part 2Onto the fabric parts! <br /><br />
I rather like sewing, to be honest. Like every other creative act, it has its tedium, but having a well-made fabric costume component completed by your own hands is such a wonderfully rewarding feeling. Flashy armor, props, and helmets are awesome and super fun to make, but poor underlying fabric work can really bring down a costume experience for me. So every time I am presented with some kind of fabric work, I make an earnest effort to exceed the quality of my previous sewing work. This project had a few key areas that would really test my abilities: an inner shirt, two padded armor skirts, the vest onto which the armor plating is attached, and the glove pads. <br /><br />
A lot of my sewing projects thus far have been minor components – balaclavas, shoulder pads, simple spandex gloves, stuff like that, stuff that can be patterned flat rather easily. This project would require custom patterning, though. As I’ve grown in the costuming community, I’ve learned to appreciate totally custom patterning from scratch. Modifying existing patterns has its place and is a good starting point, but if you want to shoot for accuracy and quality from the get go, there’s no better way than to make your patterns from scratch. By doing so, you gain a valuable, intensely intimate knowledge of your build. You understand how it’s put together and why it’s put together that way, and that knowledge can make or break your stress levels later into the build when deadlines are looming. So I’ll say right off the bat that this project has made me a true-believer in custom patterning. <br /><br />
<b>The Inner Shirt</b><br /><br />
Prior to doing any patterning or sewing work, Wayne and I both made duct tape mannequins of each other for various projects. Take your pick of the possibly hundreds of duct tape mannequin tutorials out there, I won’t go into it here since I wouldn’t be adding anything unique to that topic. I hung my duct tape mannequin in my garage-turned-shop at the same shoulder height as myself, so I had an accurate height reference. My duct tape mannequin doesn’t have legs, so you’ll see it supported underneath by stacks of Home Depot buckets in the following photos, real classy like. <br /><br />
Starting with the patterning for the shirt, I found it’s best to just jump right in and start pinning on large sheets of fabric. I used cheap muslin as my patterning fabric. You can use anything you like, but make sure it stretches (or doesn’t stretch) like your final fabric. I know that a lot of people use cheapy printed fabric, but the solid, blank color of the muslin is helpful in making marks and notes. As you make cuts and refine shapes, you are able to make a once rectangular piece of fabric fit over the complex curvature of your body. However, sometimes the fabric won’t bend right, and that’s where seams come in. I found very quickly that it’s critical to piece together new bits of fabric onto older layers, and then remove it and rebuild whole chunks of your patterns with new fabric. Errors get worked out that way, but more importantly, you begin to gain knowledge of how it all goes together. The more I patterned it out, the more I understood the design of the shirt. I won’t go into “how to sew” or anything, the takeaway from this I learned the importance of making custom patterns.<br /><br />
It's important to note here that I strayed slightly from the design of the character design in the game. Some of the character variants in Skyrim show the armor without the large shoulder armor, revealing the shoulder area of the inner shirt. I don't know if there is any specific terminology to describe the "tucked under" look of the sleeves, but the inner shirt has a layered approach to its shoulder seams. I didn't quite know how to address that during my pattern making, and it's possible I was making it unnecessarily complicated in my own mind. However, my solution was to just sew the shoulders as regular shoulder seams because my costume build would include the shoulder armor pieces, and the armor would cover that area anyways. As you'll read below, I'm all for getting the details as right as you can, but in this particular area of the costume, I could cut that corner without any repercussions later on. So if you have an eye for details and are comparing my work with the character art, understand that I am aware of the differences.<br /><br />
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14490476526" title="IMG_20140524_124600 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5475/14490476526_97262d02f4.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="IMG_20140524_124600"></a></div><br />
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The process was long and tedious, but I found that the more refined my patterning work got, the quicker the pace became. The initial stages of the patterning took the longest, as wielding a rather large piece of fabric while attempting to find your working boundaries can be a cumbersome process. By the end, however, it wouldn’t take more than 5 or 10 minutes to pin a new piece on, test fit, adjust a line, and recut a new pattern piece. Once I had all the pieces finalized, I was able to transfer my patterns to the final fabric and begin sewing. <br /><br />
The fabric I chose was some kind of wool knit. I’m not a fabric expert, so I couldn’t tell you what specific kind. What I was looking for was color and texture. I wanted something that had a thick, exaggerated weave that could still be noticed among the other details on the costume. Considering that the majority of clothing items in Skyrim can be compared to medieval clothing in the real world, I feel my choice in fabric was “period” appropriate. It’s slightly itchy, though, so I lined the neck with a t-shirt style cotton. I would be wearing a t-shirt under this as well, so for the most part I was protected from the itch fabric, but I really didn’t want to scratch my neck raw over the course of a few hours while wearing the costume. <br /><br />
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14513582295" title="IMG_20140526_210636 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3863/14513582295_77b3e8eeed.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140526_210636"></a></div><br />
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14533694933" title="IMG_20140526_233319 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2939/14533694933_b246535e6f.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="IMG_20140526_233319"></a></div><br />
The thing about Skyrim costumes is that the character design is always so very intricate. They don’t leave any detail behind. It’s all there, and I feel it’s important to at least make a stab at all the details, otherwise it might feel unfinished. I’ve always felt that if you add a detail that might not ever be seen or warrant any special attention, it’ll be a nice little surprise for when someone does find it. Doing so is world-building and enriches the history of the character you are presenting. However, if you leave off the details that you think “might” not be seen, all of a sudden it can be like there’s a gaping void there that can’t be ignored. So I try to give all the details at least a little bit of my attention. A detail found throughout the Dawnguard costume is some thick stitching around certain edges. Since machine-sewn stitches would provide the structure, this detail stitching would be replicated in yarn and be purely cosmetic.<br /><br />
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14512475972" title="IMG_20140604_212020 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2916/14512475972_8323923d29.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="IMG_20140604_212020"></a></div><br />
<b>The Padded Armor Skirts</b><br /><br />
The skirts were made by quilting denim together with the wrong side out. I chose denim fabric for the texture, and the wrong side was used for the color since the right side was too vibrant and blue. It was quilted with a single layer of low-loft batting, which allowed the skirts to remain relatively thin and light. The suede edging was sewn in place and, like the shirt, more faux stitching was added with yarn. The quilting and edging went rather quickly, but each skirt took about an hour and a half to stitch around the edges. The needles I was using would not puncture the suede, so the suede had to be cut with an Xacto blade, hole-by-hole to accommodate for the thickness of the yarn and the needle. Tedious is putting it nicely.<br /><br />
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14326922740" title="IMG_20140607_100319 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2896/14326922740_6f879d1370.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140607_100319"></a></div><br />
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14513585705" title="IMG_20140607_181100 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3916/14513585705_1082e38594.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140607_181100"></a></div><br />
A lot of times I have a general idea of how I want a costume to go together, but the details get worked out as I work. In this case, I didn’t know how I was going to attach the skirts to the rest of the costume. I thought maybe affixing them to a belt would be suitable, but then I realized that I didn’t want to wear too many belts. So I had to attach them to something else. I remembered the modularity of the Dawnguard costumes in-game, and decided that if I ever wanted to venture out in one of the skirtless variants, I needed the skirts to be removable. I ended up Velcro-ing them into place on the shirt. The Velcro would hold them vertically, while the outer vest would provide lateral support against any unforeseen tugging.<br /><br />
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14327160817" title="IMG_20140611_185322 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5117/14327160817_85a4b41d71.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="IMG_20140611_185322"></a></div><br />
To finish off the skirts, I needed to place a stud at every intersection in the quilted denim. Some intersections toward the top would not receive a stud because they would interfere with the vest and main belt later on, but the bulk of them received a little resin stud. To make the studs, I carved five little bumps out of some 1/4” thick sintra and made a mold of them. I didn’t know if any of them would pull off during regular wear and tear, so I cast up over a hundred studs in total so I’d have extras. After they were painted, they were glued into place with some E6000 glue.<br /><br />
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14327007058" title="IMG_20140608_115610 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3864/14327007058_53516095b0.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140608_115610"></a></div><br />
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14326999758" title="IMG_20140612_182718 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2932/14326999758_4fac7bcd25.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140612_182718"></a></div><br />
<b>The Armor Vest</b><br /><br />
The vest began the exact same way as the shirt, with the exception that the patterning was developed with the finished shirt on the duct tape mannequin. Doing that isn’t so much of a fitting (size) consideration as it was positioning and scaling considerations. I needed it to have the correct proportions as the game reference, so working on top of the finished layers beneath it was the way to go. Besides, you’re not really going to mess anything up by pinning to more cloth, at least in this instance. <br /><br />
On the reference material from the game, the vest material is somewhat ambiguous. I suspect it’s intended to be leather, but several factors prevented that from happening, among which were cost, time, and capabilities. Instead of leather, I searched my local fabric stores high and low for a suitable replacement and arrived on a waterproof, plasticized canvas that was the right color. It also had a very small, tight weave that didn’t really show too much of a texture.<br /><br />
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14326989429" title="IMG_20140613_180808 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5495/14326989429_a5a3560244.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="IMG_20140613_180808"></a></div><br />
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14326916470" title="IMG_20140614_203904 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3876/14326916470_4a7374e2b2.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="IMG_20140614_203904"></a></div><br />
Now the in-game character model shows that the vest closes in the front with three clasps. Not only did I have the time to develop fully working buckles (more on that in Part 3), but I was sure that doing so would not make it look correct, as the buckles would be pulling in odd ways. So I needed a way to close the vest in the front so it would lay correctly on my body regardless of the three buckles. The solution was to hide a zipper as the real closure and just make the buckles purely cosmetic. <br /><br />
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14326945200" title="IMG_20140614_204441 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3906/14326945200_a8afd8c564.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="IMG_20140614_204441"></a></div><br />
At this point, the vest was not complete, but I had to turn my attention to the armor and the gloves, so some of the vest components would sit in an unfinished state for a few weeks. The shoulders were sewn and pinned in place, but I couldn’t permanently install them until I got my materials back from the seamstress that worked on my gloves (more on that below). When I got the materials back, I sewed up the shoulder straps from some brown vinyl and permanently installed the shoulder assemblies into the rest of the vest. Regarding the buckles across the chest, those would not be installed until the armor (Part 3) was installed because I would need the armor in place for positioning. <br /><br />
<b>The Gloves</b><br /><br />
I don’t have much in the way of progress photos of the gloves. The gloves themselves are some generic long-cuffed Renaissance faire type gloves that I ordered online. I figured the glove pads were going to be a little mini project on their own, but I was running short on time and needed to pass them off to a local seamstress to build for me. The design and work involved wasn’t anything I couldn’t tackle on my own, but the vest, armor, and all the various other details were burning up the rest of time. So I made a pattern of everything I needed, purchased the necessary materials, and met with the seamstress to go over the parts I needed her to build. A few weeks later, I had the parts in-hand but quickly found that I needed to modify them. The edging around the glove pads was just too thin, so I had to remove the edging and install my own.
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/15041889241" title="IMG_20140722_222251 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3907/15041889241_9a78311e7d.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="IMG_20140722_222251"></a></div><br />
Like I said at the beginning, I really like the fabric work. It’s certainly something I need to know way more about, as my knowledge on the matter is simply making a sewing machine “go.” I can understand folds and seams, and this build in particular has forced me to learn how to make my own patterns, but I feel I haven’t even begun to touch on the vast amount of knowledge on the matter. We at 2StoryProps strive to learn and improve with each project we work on, and the items discussed in just this one post have really pushed me into a place where I can enjoy the fabric work.<br /><br />
Part 1 of the Dawnguard series can be found <a href="http://2storyprops.blogspot.com/2014/07/skyrim-dawnguard-part-1.html">here</a>. Part 3 of the Dawnguard series will discuss the various armor pieces on the costume, as well as a whole myriad of details that were needed to complete the look. As usual, you can find the full Flickr photo set of the Dawnguard photo <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/sets/72157640552352423/">here</a>.
David Reimerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00822001040100771573noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4219958125389265546.post-88953307757301229452014-09-17T15:24:00.003-05:002014-09-17T15:50:23.950-05:00Retro Spacemen (For the Budget Cosplayer!)
<div align="center"> <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/10446879633" title="DSCN5582_poster by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5505/10446879633_42a4da1539_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="DSCN5582_poster"></a></div> <br>
While Wayne and I regularly converse on our upcoming builds, it’s always exciting when two people arrive on a single idea totally separate from one another. Unbeknownst to either of us, we had each had a secret desire to build some kind of generic, campy, intentionally crappy retro sci-fi “spaceman” costume, as if it were something stolen from the set of some forgotten sci-fi B-movie serial. In September of 2013, I had just moved into my new house and began setting up my shop. In order to break in the space, we decided to build the retro spacemen. <br><br>
Like most of our builds, we set a few main goals. Typically our builds are all about using some new, fancy material, or learning some method needed to produce a certain part. With this build, however, we wanted to build the two suits for as little money as possible, and in as little time as possible. We figured it’d be a good Halloween build, and we had a tutorial in mind for it the entire time. So here is your 2014 Halloween costume, 2StoryProps fans! (If you make one based on this tutorial, we’d seriously love for you to send us a photo!) <br><br>
Right off the bat, here’s a price list. This is unusual for us (well, for me at least) as we typically operate with the understanding that this is an expensive hobby to participate in, so we generally don't tally up receipts to determine the penny-by-penny exact costs of our builds. But again, we wanted to really focus on how cheaply we could build these costumes. This list may not exactly be entirely comprehensive, as there may be a bit or bobble missing, but the bulk of what you need to build a Retro Sci-Fi helmet is there (unfortunately, we do not have the receipts for the custom fabric components available at this time). With a few tools of your own and the items on this list, you can build your own Retro Spaceman! Your local pricing and availability may vary. <br><br>
<u><b>PRICE LIST</b></u> (online items reflect cost with shipping)<br><br>
<div style="margin-left:15px;">$33.26 - 14 in. Clear Acrylic Globe, 5.25 in. Neckless Opening from <a href="http://www.1000bulbs.com" target="_new">1000bulbs.com</a></div>
<div style="margin-left:15px; margin-top:7px;">$45.00 - Navy Blue Flightsuit from <a href="http://www.1000bulbs.com" target="_new">Mashern.com</a></div>
<div style="margin-left:15px; margin-top:7px;">$1.81 - .75" x 60" PVC Pipe from Lowes</div>
<div style="margin-left:15px; margin-top:7px;">$1.08 - .75" PVC Coupling x4 from Lowes</div>
<div style="margin-left:15px; margin-top:7px;">$3.12 - 1.5" x 24" PVC Pipe from Lowes</div>
<div style="margin-left:15px; margin-top:7px;">$19.98 - 1.25" x 8' Vacuum Hose from Lowes</div>
<div style="margin-left:15px; margin-top:7px;">$1.20 - .75" Lagbolt x10 from Lowes</div>
<div style="margin-left:15px; margin-top:7px;">$1.32 - 1" x .5" PVC Elbow x2 from Lowes</div>
<div style="margin-left:15px; margin-top:7px;">$0.92 - .75" PVC Cap x2 from Home Depot</div>
<div style="margin-left:15px; margin-top:7px;">$10.76 - 12" x 48" Diameter Cardboard Concrete Form from Home Depot</div>
<div style="margin-left:15px; margin-top:7px;">$3.97 - Black Nitrile Chemical Gloves from Home Depot</div>
<div style="margin-left:15px; margin-top:7px;">$5.98 - Cashews (Canned Nuts) from Wal-Mart</div>
<div style="margin-left:15px; margin-top:7px;">$4.97 - Sink Strainer from Wal-Mart</div>
<div style="margin-left:15px; margin-top:7px;">$20.00 - Waterproof Knee Boots from Wal-Mart</div>
<div style="margin-left:15px; margin-top:7px;">~ $10.00 - Black Nylon Pistol Belt (we already had ours)</div><br />
This tutorial will mostly follow the construction of the helmet, which is actually based on a similar design by a member of the Replica Prop Forum. That thread can be found <a href="http://www.therpf.com/f24/retro-comicbook-style-space-helmet-lots-pics-95516/" target="_new">here</a>. We began with a couple of 14” acrylic globes, which we commonly use for Deadmau5 heads, and some giant cardboard tubes from Home Depot. The tubes are normally used for concrete forms and have a waxy coating on the interior. Using some poster board, we developed a template for each of us that would provide the right curve to follow each of our necklines. I have a bigger, drum-like chest while Wayne has a slimmer frame, so the necks of our helmets had to be different. Making adjustments along the way to bring everything to a comfortable height, we were off to a good start rather quickly. <br><br>
<div align="center"> <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14933188980" title="DSCN5458 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3925/14933188980_899747c5da.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN5458"></a></div> <br>
<div align="center"> <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14933283897" title="DSCN5461 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3889/14933283897_68d219b02c.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN5461"></a></div> <br>
<div align="center"> <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/15119476802" title="DSCN5462 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5551/15119476802_198b498d93.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="DSCN5462"></a></div> <br>
<div align="center"> <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14933163459" title="DSCN5465 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3891/14933163459_6cd1d59653.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN5465"></a></div> <br>
<div align="center"> <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/15096864986" title="DSCN5467 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5588/15096864986_38284ab692.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN5467"></a></div> <br>
Next, really focusing on the “cheap” aspect of the build, we used some peanut cans and drain covers for the little “com box” on the front. Whatever it is. The cans were sheathed in some scrap For Sale sign styrene, but that’s certainly not necessary. Using the lid, the drain cover was glued into place and the com box was basically done. <br><br>
<div align="center"> <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14933174409" title="DSCN5469 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3913/14933174409_1612b355ed.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN5469"></a></div> <br>
<div align="center"> <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/15096878496" title="DSCN5471 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5571/15096878496_d1fc0ea913.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="DSCN5471"></a></div> <br>
<div align="center"> <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/15119880855" title="DSCN5476 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5588/15119880855_171558c810.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN5476"></a></div> <br>
<div align="center"> <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14933327398" title="DSCN5479 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3858/14933327398_f32d39cbb5.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN5479"></a></div> <br>
<div align="center"> <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/15096904026" title="DSCN5481 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3921/15096904026_cd77c3087d.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN5481"></a></div> <br>
Now there are a few things that happened in quick succession without any real necessary order. Most of these things can be done out of the order presented here, and believe me, writing this a year after they were built, I’m sure I’m telling you something in an incorrect order. The first thing was coating the cardboard neck ring in resin. This isn’t necessary, but as a stickler for sturdiness, I was wary of the cardboard’s sturdiness over the long term, so I felt it needed something extra to strengthen it. I brushed on several layers of Smooth Cast 300 and sanded it smooth to give the cardboard a nice, rigid shell. Again, not necessary for the cheap factor, but it was something I personally wanted to do. Unfortunately, I don’t have any photos of that process, so we’ll jump right into the next bit. <br><br>
The next thing was to place some fake bolts around the top of the neck ring. These are wholly cosmetic and don’t provide any real function, but I figured it would be best to get them at least placed early on in the build. The bolts were some cheap lag bolts from Lowes that were cut off at the head and glued into place with some hot glue. At the same time, I also mounted the com box in place and used a bead of hot glue around it on the outside to make for some nice fake welding detail. I also popped on some car door edging around the top rim of the neck assembly for a little bit of detailing and to clean up that edge for when the globe would be mounted later on. <br><br>
<div align="center"> <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/15096937126" title="DSCN5500 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5594/15096937126_c15776126d.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN5500"></a></div> <br>
<div align="center"> <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/15119537812" title="DSCN5492 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3850/15119537812_23dd97fe6f.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN5492"></a></div> <br>
<div align="center"> <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14933367737" title="DSCN5499 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5587/14933367737_d28a78022c.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN5499"></a></div> <br>
<div align="center"> <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14933374388" title="DSCN5503 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3854/14933374388_9bc39281fd.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN5503"></a></div> <br>
To finish off the primary construction of the neck assembly, we needed hoses. Utilizing some PVC connectors and short lengths of corresponding pipe, we added some vacuum hose. So far, nothing in this build has been terribly difficult to accomplish, and this was no different. It really was just some drill work, some zip-ties, and some hot glue (both for adhesion and for fake welding details). <br><br>
<div align="center"> <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/15119939585" title="DSCN5509 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5576/15119939585_da83101e83.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN5509"></a></div> <br>
<div align="center"> <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14933340387" title="DSCN5482 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5585/14933340387_cfe935c6bd.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN5482"></a></div> <br>
<div align="center"> <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14933255539" title="DSCN5511 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5582/14933255539_3050641a4a.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN5511"></a></div> <br>
<div align="center"> <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/15096955756" title="DSCN5512 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5560/15096955756_b0852ddc41.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN5512"></a></div> <br>
<div align="center"> <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14933306120" title="DSCN5554 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5576/14933306120_7b486556bb.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN5554"></a></div> <br>
The neck assembly is basically done at this point and ready for a little paint. In keeping with the low-budget B-movie theme, we kept it all super simple. Some metallic gunmetal spray paint and some craft paint was all it needed. <br><br>
<div align="center"> <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/15096967006" title="DSCN5561 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3852/15096967006_c545484829.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN5561"></a></div> <br>
<div align="center"> <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14933400497" title="DSCN5562 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5565/14933400497_e8a380795e.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN5562"></a></div> <br>
<div align="center"> <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/15119961835" title="DSCN5563 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3889/15119961835_595f85fc56.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN5563"></a></div> <br>
Of course, how would we ever survive in the total vacuum of a dank, poorly-lit sound stage without our bubble helmets? We discussed the merits of mounting the globes permanently in place as well as making the globes removable, and we decided to go with the removable option. That way we can walk around with the neck assemblies in place and not have to worry about carrying a huge, unwieldy contraption. Plus, we have plans for upgrades that would include mounting tanks to the neck assemblies, so making the neck assemblies more of a part of the costume as opposed to part of the helmet was key. <br><br>
In order to make the bubble helmet removable, we lined the neck ring with some EVA foam from a floor mat, held in place with hot glue. This not only helped provide some strength to the neck ring, but it made for a soft lining that would provide “just enough” tension on the globe to keep in in place. Then, using more of the cardboard from our concrete form, we made an inner neck ring that would fit snugly within the foam lining. That ring was glued closed and then transferred to the globe, where we cut an opening just smaller than the neck ring. This smaller opening allowed for some overlap between the ring and the globe, making it easy to hot glue together. (Please note: in the photo below, the bolts you see around the neck assembly were temporarily installed in this manner for neck ring fitting purposes. They were later cut short and glued in correctly.) <br><br>
<div align="center"> <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14933355758" title="DSCN5494 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5570/14933355758_d510c2ac28.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN5494"></a></div> <br>
<div align="center"> <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14933274890" title="DSCN5496 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3902/14933274890_38667b9def.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN5496"></a></div> <br>
And with that, the helmets are basically done. The design is so perfectly simple that you can really run wild with it. But we needed to take it further – we needed matching costumes to go with them. We started with our standard pick of Rothco flightsuits and decided to build from there. Wayne and I collaborated on a design for a padded vest that is not terribly unlike the motocross armor used for the various Stormtrooper accessories in Star Wars, and once we agreed on the final design, Wayne took to crafting the vests.<br><br>
Wayne started off by drawing the shape we wanted onto a cheap t-shirt so he could create a pattern without the need of a duct tape mannequin. The pattern was transferred to poster board, and then cut from upholstery pleather. We decided to incorporate the same color-coding we used on our ODST armor, thus I have a red shoulder while Wayne’s vest has a black one. The vests were made quilted by sewing a layer of batting between the vinyl and a polyester backing, and the edges were finished with bias tape. If you attempt this, we recommend using a thinner vinyl/pleather as it was very difficult to get through our aging $80 Brother sewing machines. Each vest closes at the bottom by connecting to a military gun belt (the same belts we use for our Ghostbuster costumes) via elastic straps and snaps. <br><br>
<div align="center"> <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14937424858" title="IMG_0888 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3889/14937424858_c6c392b3d0.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_0888"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"> <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/15120999061" title="IMG_0877 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3883/15120999061_d9791f8849.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_0877"></a></div><br>
The patches were made in the same manner as the ones on our Apollo space suit, by using printable silk which you can find at Jo-Ann’s. Since we were aiming for “1950s sci fi” I made a flag image with 48 stars and created a retro version of our logo. Wayne printed the patches out on the printable silk, then reinforced them with interfacing, and finally sewed them to the flight suits. <br><br>
<div align="center"> <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/15101000036" title="IMG_0883 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5587/15101000036_2706f08bc3.jpg" width="500" height="500" alt="IMG_0883"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"> <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14937341900" title="IMG_0884 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3905/14937341900_d46f9bd945.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_0884"></a></div><br>
The suits were finished off with black rubber gloves from Home Depot and rubber work boots from Wal-Mart. While we have plans to make 1950’s ray guns at some point, for Halloween we decided to use this as an excuse to add more Nerf guns to our already massive collection. <br><br>
<div align="center"> <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/10446840743" title="DSCN5575 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7453/10446840743_d433a5af3c.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN5575"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"> <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/10446831113" title="DSCN5574 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5531/10446831113_42366c8407.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="DSCN5574"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"> <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/10446705865" title="DSCN5582_edited by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7407/10446705865_61e839d02f.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="DSCN5582_edited"></a></div><br>
For the rest of the photos, view our Flickr set <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/sets/72157636880724884/" target="_new">here</a>.David Reimerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00822001040100771573noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4219958125389265546.post-77098045982383100992014-07-29T16:38:00.001-05:002014-07-29T16:38:20.642-05:00Skyrim: Dawnguard, Part 1I have been a long-time fan of The Elder Scrolls games. I still boast that my all-time favorite single video game is Morrowind. Oblivion kind of put a bad taste in my mouth, but Skyrim made it all better. But with the almost infinite character variation, it’s difficult for me to settle on a costume or prop to build from it while still maintaining an identifiable appearance at a convention. It’s just a personal thing for me, but not everything in the games is terribly distinguishable among other games in the genre. So it’s taken me several years to muster up the effort to make something from TES. After buying the Legendary Edition for PC, I worked toward the Dawnguard campaign and fell in love. <br><br>
Since a full costume is going to be a nightmare to write about, I’m only going to write about the main features of the costume: the helmet, the armor, some of the main cloth components, and the weapons. This blog post will discuss the helmet and the pair of Nordic Daggers I opted to build for Dragon Con. <br><br>
<b>The Dawnguard Full Helmet</b><br><br>
The helmet started off as a 3D model I designed, based on my own screen grabs. I’m not into pulling game models because they are often low-poly, or the polygons don’t match the implied shapes that the graphic skin display. It can be like a bowl full of chips – my intent is to replicate the lump of chips, but the bowl doesn’t work for me. That may be a rough analogy, but I don’t know how any other way to adequately describe the experience from my POV. Anyways, the 3D model was designed purposefully simplistic, so that my Bondo sculpting would be what you see in the end. The model was then processed through Pepakura, which shouldn’t be anything new if you’ve been following our build write-ups. So I won’t go into depth there. <br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/12328181025" title="IMG_20140118_183839 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2819/12328181025_849cef65c7.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140118_183839"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/12328330103" title="IMG_20140123_000309 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7442/12328330103_f2896c9225.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140123_000309"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/12328183395" title="IMG_20140126_140954 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2871/12328183395_192da628c2.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140126_140954"></a></div><br>
After the paper model was printed, built, and slushed in resin, I took to the Bondo work. This ended up being rather tricky for me. I’m used to sculpting something that’s supposed to be perfect and smooth, either with graceful, gentle curves, or hard, flat edges and faces. I set out to sculpt this helmet to appear as if the blacksmith who made it had to crank 15 of them out in a day, so I had to reel in the quality on this one intentionally – not to be lazy and produce a bad sculpt, but rather to intentionally make it slightly misshapen, rough around the edges, imperfect. You know, government quality. So this meant grinding in a flattened, semi-faceted surface throughout that would mimic the appearance of metal roughly hammered over a beat up anvil. I also wanted to intentionally weather it from the get-go, since all the Dawnguard stuff is super beat up hand-me-downs from a bygone era, kept up by a lone blacksmith. <br><br>
That’s not to say there isn’t careful detailing involved in it, however. I’ve been trying to integrate laser-cut components more and more into my builds, and this helmet gave me a perfect opportunity. In addition to the thin crosshairs logo on the forehead, this thing has too many rivets in it to remember a correct count, so I opted to laser cut a ton of little circles out of some sintra, glue them on, and then beat them up with some rough sandpaper. This would make every rivet unique, but would also give them the appearance of being soft metal hammered into place. <br><br>
Overall, nothing terribly new was happening here. There was your typical Bondo work, which included the masking tape method wherein you peel up the tape while the Bondo is still wet to reveal a sharp edge. This method was used extensively throughout this build. There was also plenty of hand-crafting plastic sheet involved, primarily around the eyes and forehead details. The laser cut work was opted for out of time and labor considerations for the most part, but also just to make certain details less stressful to deal with. <br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/12328184545" title="IMG_20140131_152501 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7387/12328184545_b501be2125.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="IMG_20140131_152501"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/12328625934" title="IMG_20140202_170420 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2875/12328625934_a59a29d656.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="IMG_20140202_170420"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/12756942575" title="IMG_20140216_144504 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2811/12756942575_9198fede7f.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="IMG_20140216_144504"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/12757381854" title="IMG_20140216_192000 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2855/12757381854_af76e18ebb.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140216_192000"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/12757456424" title="IMG_20140219_230227 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7363/12757456424_ce28dc2556.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="IMG_20140219_230227"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/13066355513" title="IMG_20140305_075455 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3437/13066355513_7a2636bda2.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="IMG_20140305_075455"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/13066364233" title="IMG_20140308_110843 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2698/13066364233_83f52773dd.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140308_110843"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/13066245875" title="IMG_20140308_115409 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7331/13066245875_4921b8fb74.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="IMG_20140308_115409"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/13219484315" title="IMG_20140315_181243 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3789/13219484315_602d2019e0.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140315_181243"></a></div><br>
When the base helmet model was complete, the real work that would bring it into the world of Skyrim would begin. Prior to molding, I decided to weather it so that all the scratches and dents would be embedded in the model. A lot of people would frown upon that, since it would make it tedious to fill in if someone wanted to do a “clean” version. However, I decided that as the builder, I would play the part of the game and just give myself an old, beat-up helmet from the start. That’s how it is in the game, so that’s how it is in the sculpt. The weathering details were accomplished by “drawing” them in with a metal grinding bit in my dremel. I basically just sat there for several hours, scrutinizing my reference images while scratching it gouges and pits. It was really fun to do, and I think the effect worked out pretty well since they mostly disappear when viewed from only a few feet away. So it’s not like I took a pick axe to it; it’s a really subtle effect that will only bolster the painted weathering later on. <br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/13219618883" title="IMG_20140315_221944 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7031/13219618883_a0d9e5ea3a.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="IMG_20140315_221944"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/13219777814" title="IMG_20140316_140811 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3731/13219777814_c2d959b576.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140316_140811"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/13219445715" title="IMG_20140316_142330 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7241/13219445715_444e176205.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140316_142330"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/13219483095" title="DSCN6119 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3747/13219483095_f74a12d51d.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="DSCN6119"></a></div><br>
Then I took to molding the helmet. I decided a simple two-part mold with a seam right down the center would be easiest, based on the types of undercuts this thing had around the faceplate. Undercuts can be managed well enough if you plan for them ahead of time and work out ways of getting resin into them effectively. On this helmet, basically all the edges around the faceplate were undercuts in some regard, but they weren’t harsh enough to warrant some kind of crazy mold. Being able to peel the mold off in left and right halves made it easy to deal with. Molding material used was Rebound 25 from Smooth On, and fiberglass mat and cloth for the mother mold. <br><br>
<div align=”center”><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14067294126" title="IMG_20140419_160833 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7384/14067294126_305d59c451.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140419_160833"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/13903774029" title="IMG_20140419_173758 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7397/13903774029_994c34d900.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140419_173758"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14067294816" title="IMG_20140420_123648 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7195/14067294816_0e299f04d2.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140420_123648"></a></div><br>
I look around for new molding techniques all the time, but oddly enough I hadn’t come across this until I saw Frank Ippolito (I think!) do this on his Zoidberg head mold. You sculpt a little wedge shape into the mothermold so that you can insert a pair of flathead screwdrivers into it. It makes demolding way, way easier, especially when you’ve had the mold cranked down tight onto itself for several hours during casting. The mothermold can lock up on itself, and the screwdriver slots remove unneeded stresses you might otherwise put on it by trying to twist, tug, or bend it. <br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/13903771839" title="IMG_20140424_181719 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7397/13903771839_b5335b1f71.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140424_181719"></a></div><br>
And ta-da!<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/13903776459" title="DSCN6217 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7318/13903776459_ec830f8576.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="DSCN6217"></a></div><br>
Next came paint. Luckily I was able to find two rattle cans that had the right colors for it. I don’t have any sort of fancy paint setup, so right now I just stick with rattle cans, hand-painting, and a little airbrushing. I’ve switched from Krylon to Rusoleum in my paint work, and their metallic are pretty nice. After a solid base coat was applied, I hit it with several black and brown washes, selectively adding in some minor rust effects and other isolated dirty spots. To really drive home the point that this helmet had been around for a while, I used some Rub N Buff on a lot of the edges to highlight the really worn areas. The key to using Rub N Buff in a weathering capacity is to use it very, very lightly. Both in how you apply it, and in how much you apply. <br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14090400835" title="DSCN6219a_preview by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7413/14090400835_3ac04995e4.jpg" width="500" height="250" alt="DSCN6219a_preview"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/13903800957" title="DSCN6225a by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7179/13903800957_d8cc46978e.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN6225a"></a></div><br>
After painting, I spruced up the inside with a hard hat liner for comfortable convention wear, and a little black paint. Here’s some glamor shots on the final product. <br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14135269153" title="DSCN6229_edited by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7384/14135269153_0a84aacebf.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="DSCN6229_edited"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14111923201" title="DSCN6266_edited by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7041/14111923201_eca9871659.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="DSCN6266_edited"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/13928538477" title="DSCN6236_edited by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2930/13928538477_5e4e223101.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="DSCN6236_edited"></a></div><br>
<b>The Nordic Daggers</b><br><br>
For the record, I do have Dawnguard weapons in progress, but with the full costume taking up a substantial amount of my time and financial resources, I needed some kind of smaller weapon that wouldn’t take long to build so I’d have something ready for Dragon Con 2014. I opted for a pair of Nordic Daggers from the Dragonborn expansion pack. Their dinky, cheap, practically harmless weapons in-game, but they are very dynamic looking items, and they share a design lineage with all the other Nordic weapons and armor throughout the game, the Dawnguard stuff included. So I felt it would be a nice to sport a pair of them with the costume until I’m able to produce a better weapon later on. <br><br>
And here’s where I totally cop-out on you guys. I’m not going to tell you how I built it, other than a few highlights. Instead, I’m going to let my time-lapse video do the work for me. Part of the reason for the build was specifically to shoot a time-lapse video of a build, start to finish. Prior to shooting the video, I designed the daggers in Adobe Illustrator and used the vector files to laser cut some layers of plastic. Since the daggers have a sharp, finely detailed appearance, the crisp lines of produced by the laser cutter would be suitable for the build. During the rest of the build, I utilized plenty of Apoxy Sculpt when sculpting the grip. After making a mold, the castings were finished off in much the same way the helmet was, except for the addition of a little (synthetic) fur and suede on the grip. Enjoy the video, and check out some of the glamor shots below! <br><br>
<div align="center"><iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/AX9QwJ6yZDk?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14087316292" title="DSCN6166_edited by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2932/14087316292_78a0047df7.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN6166_edited"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14087228631" title="DSCN6165_edited by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7205/14087228631_3f2afa26e4.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN6165_edited"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14087229941" title="DSCN6171_edited by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2938/14087229941_43962eacc6.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="DSCN6171_edited"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14110519753" title="DSCN6181_edited by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7447/14110519753_859a7f0281.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN6181_edited"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14067345436" title="DSCN6182_edited by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5182/14067345436_87064ef190.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN6182_edited"></a></div><br>
For all the progress photos for all things Dawnguard, check out our flickr set here: <br><br>
https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14067345436/in/set-72157640552352423/
David Reimerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00822001040100771573noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4219958125389265546.post-72960918589054550372014-06-20T17:04:00.000-05:002014-06-20T17:04:21.880-05:00Peter Pan's Dagger<p>While this year has been very busy between building our new vacuum former, refurbishing the Dalek, and looking for a house, I had a commission come up for Peter Pan’s dagger from the Disney classic. Seeing how David has made some really awesome bladed props the last few years, I thought it would be a fun reason to try one myself.</p>
<p><center><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14465153571" title="DSCN6341_edited by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5577/14465153571_d5a22a3b31.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN6341_edited"></a></p></center>
<p>The first step was to sketch out a template for the dagger. Most prop builders I know nowadays use Illustrator for this step, but I still like to use graph paper and a pencil. Using several screen caps and a kitchen knife for size reference, I made a full size sketch of the dagger in 2 views. The drawing was then scanned and sent to the client so she could verify if scale would work for her. Once I received approval it was time to start cutting.</p>
<p><center><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14488656223" title="petersdagger by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3856/14488656223_cdee1ae9f0.jpg" width="322" height="330" alt="petersdagger"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14467357144" title="IMG_1296 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3889/14467357144_e2384d9146.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_1296"></a></p></center>
<p>The build started with two pieces of ¼” MDF glued together to form a ½” piece, which would be my blade thickness. The pattern I created was printed full size and traced onto the wood, then cut out using a scroll saw. The centerline was then transferred to both sides of the blank.</p>
<p><center><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14467176172" title="IMG_1301 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3900/14467176172_4ffcb31b59.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="IMG_1301"></a></p></center>
<p>I stated shaping the blade by adding the curve as seen looking at the side of the blade. Reference lines were drawn on the sides then the blank was shaped with a belt sander and the mid line replaced. Using a dremmel with a sanding drum, I carefully shaped the blade to provide a knife edge. Once it was rough shaped with the dremmel I cleaned it up with my palm sander.</p>
<p><center><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14281895230" title="IMG_1304 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3880/14281895230_ebf45203c0.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_1304"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14467176022" title="IMG_1306 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3888/14467176022_5ece23a899.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_1306"></a></p></center>
<p>For the handle and guard I added two more layers of MDF to the handle, and then shaped it using a combination of belt sander, palm sander, and dremmel. One I reached a shape I was happy with, I added bondo to the guard to create the taper that goes to the edge. The dagger was then puttied, primed, and sanded until it had a smooth surface finish.</p>
<p><center><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14467354424" title="IMG_1308 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3886/14467354424_d9b71d52a8.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_1308"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14281892640" title="IMG_1309 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3869/14281892640_6d5f89ece3.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_1309"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14281883839" title="IMG_1319 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3854/14281883839_2c1a9fb2a0.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_1319"></a></p></center>
<p>Originally I intended to paint the dagger using Rustoleum Metallic paint from Home Depot (the stuff with the trigger on the can). I painted the blade first, let it cure for a day, then masked it off and painted the handle. When I removed the masking, I found that the paint was still soft and the masking left texture in the paint. After 3 days the paint was not getting better, and I ended up sanding the entire thing back down to wood. After this nightmare, I used automotive paint from O’Reily’s for the handle and Rub’N Buff for the blade. The knife was then weathered with acrylic paint.</p>
<p><center><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14281883549" title="IMG_1356 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5580/14281883549_b9a0c0d6b0.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="IMG_1356"></a></p></center>
<p>Although it wasn’t requested, I opted to make a matching holster for the dagger since it allowed me to use our new vacuum former. I started my making a buck for each half of the holster with the same outline. The buck for the back half has a raised surface so I could mount snaps as attachment points for a belt loop. I then pulled a sheet of styrene over both bucks, then leaving the first layer of plastic on pulled a second sheet. This gave two sets where one shell can fit into the other. To minimize any appearance of seems I decided to use the set where the back shell slides into the front shell.</p>
<p><center><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14465150291" title="IMG_1364 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5277/14465150291_80b60e30bf.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_1364"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14488656963" title="IMG_1366 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2938/14488656963_652c804739.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_1366"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14467353664" title="IMG_1368 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2930/14467353664_01ef3dc1db.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="IMG_1368"></a></p></center>
<p>Three layers of felt were glued into each half using Goop, then the two halves were glued together with super glue. The seam was blended with bondo. I went through a lot of back and forth on how to finish the holster. In the cartoon, the holster is the same color as the belt, but other than that there is not much detail on if it is leather or a hard shell. Initially I thought about covering it with faux leather, but that may not have matched the client’s existing belt. I then considered making it look like wood, but again found myself wondering what wood, light or dark, would match the existing costume. I eventually decided to play it safe and make it the same color as the handle. That way, it looks like one complete set regardless of the belt. As with the handle, the holster was weathered to give it an aged, antique appearance. Once this was done I took the project over to David’s for a photoshoot.</p>
<p><center><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14465150051" title="IMG_1374 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3905/14465150051_b9358ef0d2.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="IMG_1374"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14467353344" title="IMG_1377 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2930/14467353344_1027a70146.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_1377"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14488659573" title="DSCN6345_edited by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3855/14488659573_c35e5dd021.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN6345_edited"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14445411876" title="DSCN6349_edited by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2895/14445411876_fdc0d799bf.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN6349_edited"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14445411026" title="DSCN6353_edited by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5507/14445411026_5b54b07524.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN6353_edited"></a></p></center>
<p>Our normal shipping method for finished props is to enclose them in a wood box lined with foam padding or pink foam board to increase the chance it will make it to its destination in one piece. On this project I wanted to try something a little different to improve presentation of the prop. Taking a trip to Hobby Lobby I found a wood box that was the perfect size for the dagger. I finished the box with stain and polyurethane then lined the inside with green foam and stretch velvet (same stuff I use on the fabric mau5 heads). The result was a storage box almost as impressive as the items stored within it.</p>
<p><center><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14467353184" title="IMG_1386 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2920/14467353184_cf789996ed.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_1386"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14467174212" title="IMG_1414 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5506/14467174212_ac8d3fc59d.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_1414"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/14445408596" title="IMG_1413 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3887/14445408596_f4e269502a.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_1413"></a></p></center>
<p>It was a fun little build and now we can add “Disney Classics” to the ever growing list of source material we built from. I also learned a few things I hope to implement with an upcoming project I’d like to build from the web series RWBY or Loki if I ever get around to it.</p>
<p>While things are a bit hectic with the move and Dalek upgrades I was able to finish one more prop this year. Be on the lookout for Marshall Lee’s axe guitar build write up coming soon!</p>
<p><a href=”https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/sets/72157645221994606/”>More build pictures here!</a>
Waynehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00037588568914291925noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4219958125389265546.post-89882244918107747912014-04-10T18:10:00.000-05:002014-04-10T18:10:06.832-05:00ProtoForm Build: Our New Industrial Vacuum Former<p><center><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/13726417974" title="DSCN6136 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7173/13726417974_44577b670a.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="DSCN6136"></a></p></center>
<p>During our first collaborative project, the Halo ODST, we found ourselves in need of a vacuum former for the visors of the helmet. Back then we had no experience with the process, and didn’t see too much need for one as most of the projects we were considering were based on fiberglass. After doing some research we found <ahref=” http://volpinprops.blogspot.com/2010/06/budget-build-mini-vacuum-former.html”>Volpin’s build</a> where he made a machine using a toaster oven and a shop vac. Seeing how simple the design was we “borrowed” it and built our first vacuum former for about $150.</p>
<p><center><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/13729180084" title="DSCN5876 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3831/13729180084_992197e854.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN5876"></a></p></center>
<p>In the 4 years we’ve had it, we discovered how useful it really is. We pulled a lot of plastic in the machine, and a lot of projects such as Daft Punk or the Apollo moon suit would have been impossible without it. While the old girl still works, some of the newer projects we are looking at will require us to have a larger pull area and more powerful vacuum. Thus, it was finally time to invest in a new machine.</p>
<p>Researching what others have done in the past, we found two options for 2x2 machines that most hobby builders seem to use; the ProtoForm and the Thurston James. Both machines use nichrome heating elements to heat the plastic and dump tanks that hold vacuum to pull the plastic. The key difference is the ProtoForm is designed to use 220 VAC (like your oven or other large appliances) while the Thurston James is based on 110 VAC (like everything else in your house). Both run the same amount of amperage through each heating element, but the ProtoForm has twice as many elements than the Thurston James. While the Thurston James plans are cheaper and the build is a little simpler, the amount of amperage it draws from the outlet would push the very limit of the breaker, which could cause a fire hazard. The ProtoForm was well in the range of other large appliances and is designed with its own breaker box, so we decided to go that route.</p>
<p>Initially, David and I were going to modify the design to be built from wood since neither of us have experience with welding. However, our friend Daniel of <a href=http://www.smeeon.com/ target=”_new”>Smeeon Fabrications</a> had just bought a new chop saw that he wanted to use and has welding experience, so we all started to work together to build the machine to print based on the purchased plans. David and I started by building up the rolling chassis while Dan welded together the steel frame that forms the main support of the machine. A few parts, such as the lift arm brackets, were machined by one of my co-workers who makes aerospace quality components. The lift arm is designed to stay up on its own when in the full vertical position.</p>
<p><center><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/13708881145" title="IMG_0961 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7278/13708881145_690577b3da.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="IMG_0961"></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/13709245374" title="IMG_0964 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3680/13709245374_4de8407b1f.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="IMG_0964"></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/13708878165" title="IMG_1028 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3787/13708878165_fca7440d9b.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="IMG_1028"></a></p></center>
<p>Once welding was complete, we built the wooden boxes that cover the operational components. The bottom box is made of pine and MDF while the oven box is oak to better withstand any heat from the oven and prevent warping. With the machine all built up, it was time to take it all apart so it could be painted. We used high temp grill paint for the steel components and “2Story Light Blue” for all the wood components.</p>
<p><center><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/13708880105" title="IMG_1040 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7086/13708880105_43c3b63ebe.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="IMG_1040"></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/13726403044" title="IMG_20140315_232137 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3742/13726403044_4a17c30926.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="IMG_20140315_232137"></a></p></center>
<p>The forming surface, or platen, consists of a steel wire mesh secured between two aluminum sheets and sealed with caulk. For this part, David produced a vector file from the drawings in the plans, which Dan then used to cut the two sheets of aluminum, with holes, on the CNC over at <a href=”http://mindgearlabs.com/” target=”_new”>MindGear Labs</a>. The top sheet was bent over the MDF base and the assembly was sealed with 100% silicone.</p>
<p><center><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/13708879695" title="IMG_1113 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5013/13708879695_eaf28f4c44.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_1113"></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/13709241474" title="IMG_1116 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2917/13709241474_24cc0b8a2b.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_1116"></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/13725999645" title="IMG_20140310_212445 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3819/13725999645_8dfd175c43.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140310_212445"></a></p></center>
<p>The vacuum system consists of a small Harbor Freight vacuum pump and two air compressor tanks which give a combined volume of 16 gallons. This is about the lower limit recommended in the plans, but we have seen people get away with a single 11 gallon tank so this set up should be good for the foreseeable future. The tanks are connected via reinforced tubing to a 1” valve that is then connected to the platen. Before the plastic is heated, the tanks are evacuated using the vacuum pump. When it is time to pull the plastic, the valve is opened, lowering the pressure between the plastic and the platen causing the plastic to take the shape of the buck.</p>
<p><center><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/13767798735" title="IMG_1166 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7383/13767798735_3f3b89a610.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_1166"></a></p></center>
<p>The heating elements are built from kits offered by build-stuff.com. They are a little pricy, but everything you need is included and you don’t have to reinvent the wheel. Each of the four heating elements is supported by drop ceiling struts on top of an aluminum stud.</p>
<p><center><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/13726004045" title="IMG_20140228_225838 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7009/13726004045_700634f0e8.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_20140228_225838"></a></p></center>
<p>Since we are required to move our machine around the shop for storage, we added a power cord to connect to the shops 220 voltage. While the three prong connection works fine, eventually we will reconfigure it to use a four prong connector with a dedicated grounding wire.</p>
<p>Finally, we added some plaques to the machine. The shop that the vacuum former is currently housed in has its share of curious minds, so some necessary hazard, safety, and operational information needed to be displayed. The plaques were simply laser cut acrylic with vinyl decals applied, with second layer of clear acrylic on top for protection. </p>
<p><center><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/13767798885" title="IMG_1165 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3693/13767798885_58df07f49e.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_1165"></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/13708878575" title="IMG_1128 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3786/13708878575_c6ab1a985e.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_1128"></a></p></center>
<p>For the first pull, Daniel brought in some plaster castings and sheets of styrene. We were hoping to have better details than were possible with our previous machine, but the results we achieved were incredible. We were even able to imprint texture from a quarter onto the plastic! Here is a video of our first two pulls. The results speak for themselves.</p>
<p><center><iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/ghTOBB3WVQo" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></p>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/13726049213" title="DSCN6135 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3831/13726049213_8d2baa4e5e.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN6135"></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/13726415134" title="DSCN6129 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7067/13726415134_72e18436b6.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN6129"></a></p></center>
<p> This is was large group effort; the machine was build one night a week over the course of three months. We want to give a big thank you to our friends Daniel and Jason for helping make this possible. With their help we now have a professional quality tool that will allow us to make some really cool stuff in the future.</p>
<p><center><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/13726039233" title="IMG_20140402_212703 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3686/13726039233_57c79d8ff6.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="IMG_20140402_212703"></a></p></center>
<p><a href=”https://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/sets/72157643621522424”>More Build Pictures!</a></p>
<p><a href=”http://build-stuff.com/1002plans_proto-form.htm”>Build-Stuff.com where you can purchase the plans and the heating kit.</a></p>
Waynehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00037588568914291925noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4219958125389265546.post-13039630183758837672014-02-06T12:05:00.000-06:002014-02-06T12:05:42.154-06:00Apollo A7L Moon Suit Part 2: Examining the Real Space Suits!Some of you may remember a scene in Star Trek: First Contact where Captain Picard has an emotional moment when he touches the Phoenix, a space craft he had visited many times in a museum but was always behind glass. When Data ask if tactile contact alters perception of an object, Picard explains, “Oh yes! For humans, touch can connect you to an object in a very personal way, make it seem more real.”
<p>I recently had a very similar experience. </p>
<p>As we live in Huntsville we are in a historically significant location related to the Space Race as the rockets that carried men to the moon were developed here. Many artifacts from this period are on located at the U.S Space and Rocket Center, including one of the 3 Saturn V rockets left in the world. I’ve visited the museum several times and have taken many pictures of the moon suits they have on display, but I could never get closer than a few feet as they are in display cases. Earlier this year, I decided to go for broke and asked the museum if I could examine one of the A7L moon suits they have up close to take measurements and pictures so I could build a more accurate suit. A few calls with the curator, a research application, and several emails later, I received approval for a day in the archives where several suits and other artifacts are being preserved! Armed with calipers, rules, a note book, and a good camera I went to the museum to physically touch a piece of history!</p>
<center> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/12347714195/" title="twilight_sky_0 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3770/12347714195_508b9b347c.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="twilight_sky_0"></a></center>
<p>Since the suits are priceless artifacts, before I could examine them I had to remove any sharp objects that could damage them and wear a pair of white cotton gloves to prevent any skin oils from tarnishing the materials. The suits themselves along with other artifacts are kept in a temperature and humidity controlled room, affectionetly called the morgue. I could literally spend years checking out everything in there, but my focus on this trip was to learn as much as I could about the A7L pressure suit. We started by pulling out an A7L pressure garment (the inner part of the suit) out from the shelves so I could document the connectors and seals.</p>
<center><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/12260633596/" title="IMG_0561 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3706/12260633596_5ca83b1e08.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="IMG_0561"></a></center>
<p>The first thing I noticed was the suits today are incredibly stiff. The natural rubber they were made with dried out over the last 40 plus years, making them very hard and brittle. Touching rubber areas made a crunching sound, and it was impossible to bend any of the joints or open the suit to look inside as I had hoped. I started of measuring the connectors and found while I made the size of the base correct, the pivot portion has a different, and more streamline shape. Using calipers I took detailed measurements and will be working on new sculpts for my next build.</p>
<center><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/12260049775/" title="IMG_0563 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2816/12260049775_548d1f6388.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="IMG_0563"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/12260485534/" title="IMG_0564 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3770/12260485534_6d8ae122e6.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="IMG_0564"></a></center>
<p>Moving up to the neck ring, I found I was very close with my original dimensions. I finally discovered how the rig itself attaches to the suit; the bottom half of the ring has a channel on it that a rubber gasket molded into the rubber bladder of the suit itself fits in and is secured with a metal ring, allowing it to easily be removed. I also found that the suit has an inner liner that snaps into place on the bladder just below the neck ring. The hoses you see in the pictures run from the oxygen inlets to the helmet so the “fresh air” can move around the bubble helmet. My suits will likely always use magnets, but the real helmet is secured using spring loaded pins.</p>
<center><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/12260481924/" title="IMG_0570 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5529/12260481924_5da93d3d4d.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="IMG_0570"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/12260485054/" title="IMG_0565 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2877/12260485054_031a91d313.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="IMG_0565"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/12260045715/" title="IMG_0569 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3814/12260045715_f17f713ab3.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="IMG_0569"></a></center>
<p>The various cables you see were used in conjunction with the bellows to keep the suit at constant volume. Without the bellows, the astronaut would not be able to move as the pressure would keep the suit in an expanded position. Without the cables and pullies, the bellows would want to expand out like an accordion. The set up for the shoulder was very interesting to see and I took a few circumference measurements to determine how thick the arms should be. It’s about 17 inches round at the bicep. The shoulders also have a stiff support ring where to see the black and white stitches, and a pivot barring so you can turn your arm. The big shoulders are the key detail I really want to fix with my next build.</p>
<center><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/12260204523/" title="IMG_0574 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7399/12260204523_c26d0cb2dc.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="IMG_0574"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/12260626546/" title="IMG_0572 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3834/12260626546_eb45b0b3fc.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="IMG_0572"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/12260040085/" title="IMG_0578 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3831/12260040085_3d7d2145b4.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="IMG_0578"></a></center>
<p> Next was time to examine the micro-meteoroid garment. Originally, we thought there were several sitting in a few boxes (without the pressure suit) but we found they were either from an earlier version of the A7L or perhaps even from an early suit altogether. To the best of my knowledge, they would have dated back to Apollo 8 where Lovell was the Command Module Pilot and Fred Haise was the back up for the Lunar Module Pilot. There was still useful information to be found, plus the name on the garment peaked my interest. I took some measurements of the patches and flag. I’ve known for a while that the fabric is Teflon, but when you see it up-close you realize that it is a very thick woven material, much thicker and stiffer than the Tyvek or nylon many costume suits are made from.</p>
<center><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/12260011975/" title="IMG_0623 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7342/12260011975_367ccb7cc6.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="IMG_0623"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/12260447094/" title="IMG_0625 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7399/12260447094_62c9872960.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="IMG_0625"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/12260170573/" title="IMG_0629 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2859/12260170573_a0e73d0a0a.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="IMG_0629"></a></center>
<p>At the time of this writing, my intent for my next moon suit build is a better replica of Jim Lovell’s Apollo 13 A7L. The archives had at least two A7LB suits (Apollo 15-17era) in beautiful condition, and if my intentions change or the opportunity comes up I would love to go back and examine them, but for now we stuck with the A7L. The suit they had was mostly complete but had turned yellow over time. The size tag had no name, indicating it was likely a training or development suit not assigned to a specific mission. For comparison, the size listed for the astronaut was their names as the crewman suits were tailored to each astronaut. The chest was bunched up, but I was able to get measurements of the pockets, helmet adjustment straps, and access flaps.</p>
<center><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/12259988695/" title="IMG_0664 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2846/12259988695_306d494030.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="IMG_0664"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/12260166613/" title="IMG_0636 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7376/12260166613_850514cfae.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="IMG_0636"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/12260004305/" title="IMG_0638 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3832/12260004305_fa3e5aaf7e.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="IMG_0638"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/12260163263/" title="IMG_0642 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5545/12260163263_e92f1049bd.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="IMG_0642"></a></center>
<p>With the suits examined it was time to check out a few of the other pieces. Since the gloves were made of rubber, many did not survive the test of time. Luckily, they had a lunar glove in fairly good condition. One of the key measurements I see a lot of discussion about is how wide the locking ring is. I am happy to tell you that after measuring it myself, the inner diameter is approximately 3.125inchs. It was also interesting to see an adjustment strap on the back of the hand. While my replica uses ironing board fabric. The real grey fabric you see here is a finely woven mesh that was about $2000 per yard!</p>
<center><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/12259994075/" title="IMG_0654 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2805/12259994075_ac75eb7879.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="IMG_0654"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/12260431164/" title="IMG_0653 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3747/12260431164_04c2a01b08.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="IMG_0653"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/12260156443/" title="IMG_0652 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2835/12260156443_339b7ac34c.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="IMG_0652"></a></center>
<p>Finally, it was time to examine a helmet. Up to this point you may have noticed I have not mentioned anything about “trying on” parts of the suit. While there are strict rules that state the suits cannot be worn, the condition of the rubber makes it physically impossible. But I am not going to lie, it took every bit of will power I have to not put this helmet on.</p>
<center><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/12260564586/" title="IMG_0675 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2864/12260564586_2b0f6da5c8.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="IMG_0675"></a></center>
<p>The real helmet consist of two parts. First, the astronaut puts on the bubble helmet, which is the part that looks like a fish bowl. He wears this alone during launch and inter-vehicular activities. When he goes outside the ship, an over-helmet is attached to the bubble helmet that has the flip up visors. The model I examined was likely an early training model and only had 2 visors inside. I was a little surprised how easy they moved, especially since you would want them to stay up when retracted. I was able to get measurements of the curve and width of similar, uninstalled visors so I can improve the bucks for the next helmet attempt.</p>
<center><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/12260564156/" title="IMG_0676 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7333/12260564156_7c8e2c9922.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="IMG_0676"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/12259981685/" title="IMG_0677 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3827/12259981685_331a68c922.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="IMG_0677"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/12260412394/" title="IMG_0687 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2872/12260412394_c537390d21.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="IMG_0687"></a></center>
<p>When everything was said and done, I spend about 5 hours examining hardware. Since I had a better camera than my personal one I stuck around and took pictures of the regular display items. While not everyone can handle a moon suit like I did, there are plenty of artifacts on display and it is a great place to learn about our country’s voyage to the moon.</p>
<center><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/12260554806/" title="IMG_0693 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3788/12260554806_3035215014.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="IMG_0693"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/12259969835/" title="IMG_0700 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7377/12259969835_75517b3821.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="IMG_0700"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/12259952445/" title="IMG_0729 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3814/12259952445_b62c1a1c8d.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="IMG_0729"></a><br>
A REAL moon rock!</center><br/>
<p>We would like to send a big thank you to the U.S. Space and Rocket Center for allowing us this unique opportunity. We learned just as much, if not more from this trip as we did from the past year researching test books and technical manuals. We are looking forward to bringing our moon suit to the center during the annual Yuri’s Night this April to celebrate manned spaceflight. As for when we’ll be starting the new moon suit, Dave and I are currently working on some new tools and a new mystery project, but we’re looking forward to starting the new build in the near future. Stay tuned!</p>
<a href=” http://rocketcenter.com/”>U.S. Space and Rocket Center</a> Home to Space Camp!<br>
<a href=” http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/sets/72157640405097174/”>More photos taken at the Space and Rocket Center</a></br>
Waynehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00037588568914291925noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4219958125389265546.post-33431958694747704182013-12-19T16:44:00.001-06:002013-12-19T16:44:15.467-06:00Blog Updates, December 2013In addition to a few new posts recently, we've gone through the other pages and made updates throughout. You'll find a totally new Projects page, additional past and present entries on our Appearances page, and a few additions to our Links page. Click on through and see what all we've been up to lately!David Reimerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00822001040100771573noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4219958125389265546.post-13023959259399206052013-12-10T11:24:00.001-06:002014-01-06T08:57:53.065-06:00True Master Sword<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/11277460145/" title="DSCN5797_edited by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7289/11277460145_53efdd692c.jpg" width="281" height="500" alt="DSCN5797_edited"></a></div><br>
As of this blog entry, the most recent Zelda game to come out is The Legend of Zelda: A Link Between Worlds for the Nintendo 3DS. I have not played it yet, so my would-be opinion of the game does not factor into this at all. My all-time favorite Zelda game is Skyward Sword, and for quite a variety of reasons. I won’t go into them, but it definitely includes my favorite rendition of the Master Sword to date. It’s been on my “want to build” list, but there were just other, more readily-buildable, or more time-sensitive builds I needed to work on. Earlier this year, I was commissioned to build it (that is, what is referred to as the “True Master Sword” in the game), so now I had a need to build it, and I couldn’t be happier!<br><br>
Anyways, the build isn’t really too much different from my previous Zelda sword builds, except for a few added techniques to achieve certain components. So a lot of this write-up will just highlight certain aspects of it as it’s really nothing new or anything terribly complicated.<br><br>
To begin, I drew up some templates. Fortunately, there are lots of great references out there for this, which made drawing my templates easy. Keeping with my desire to make all my Zelda swords in-scale with each other, I landed on a final length of 40.5” long. At first, I thought that would be way too long, so I made a secondary template which had a blade that was 2” shorter. The visual loss was not significant enough to really matter, but in the end, it just didn’t feel right. Besides, it IS a long sword, after all. So I went with the original measurement of 40.5” long.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9576754113/" title="DSCN3954 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2891/9576754113_2f5a9175fb.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN3954"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9576763301/" title="DSCN3957 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5467/9576763301_1a8290e253.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN3957"></a></div><br>
Speaking of my templates, and in case you were wondering, I print all my templates out on regular 8.5” by 11” cardstock. I could very well have them printed at Kinkos or something, but being able to piece it together on the spot makes scaling go a little quicker for me. On most builds, I may go through three or four templates before I decide it’s the right size (that is, if I don’t have anything else to base the measurements on). So in order to get parts to line up correctly, I draw a mess of thinner lines over the template so I can line them up in the light and then tape them together. A little messy, but it works just fine.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9579546648/" title="DSCN3955 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5442/9579546648_cc3d14dc78.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN3955"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9579550016/" title="DSCN3956 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3678/9579550016_8ecdd91b18.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN3956"></a></div><br>
With my templates drawn and cut, I decided what needed to be made out of MDF and what didn’t, and then transferred my templates accordingly. Prior to cutting the templates out in the 1/4” MDF, I ran the MDF down a table saw to draw a central groove down what would become the interior of the blade, into which I would later insert a threaded rod for support later on in the build. Once the interior groove was cut, I decided 1/2” was just barely too thin, so I thickened it up with a layer of 2mm sintra sandwiched between each 1/4" sheet of MDF. I glued the stack together, and then cut it out on a scroll saw, after which I carved in the blade’s edges with my dremel and my power sander.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9576772029/" title="DSCN3971 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7370/9576772029_701cb6b03e.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN3971"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9579564806/" title="DSCN3973 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3680/9579564806_d3c2f9de1b.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN3973"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9579571084/" title="DSCN3975 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2878/9579571084_d69ebefac5.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN3975"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9576785201/" title="DSCN3977 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2854/9576785201_9e12580415.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN3977"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9576793183/" title="DSCN3980 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3779/9576793183_3f5641eea4.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN3980"></a></div><br>
The cross guard proved a little tricky to carve, and there were multiple passes over it to get it just right. But in the end, the shape was actually just carved in with my dremel and an Xacto blade, and then sanded smooth. The wings would have to be added separately, so in order to get them perfectly symmetrical, I sculpted one (again, carved some MDF with my dremel and Xacto blade), made a mold, and cast two copies out of Smooth Cast 300 resin. While it’s a smaller component instead of the full cross guard, it’s the same exact thing I did on the previous Zelda swords to attain perfectly mirrored sides on an otherwise difficult to sculpt component. On a side note: A little trick I picked up from either Jarman Props, Zprops, or Punished Props (I can’t remember which!) is that if you’re working with MDF, coat your carved piece in super glue and let it soak in and dry. It really doesn’t take long, and when you sand it, you get a very hard, very smooth surface with nice, sharp edges. It’s such a neat trick that I used it throughout the build, and I encourage everyone out there following along to try it. You’ll be glad you did! Anyways, once the rest of the cross guard was sculpted, I measured out where the wings would sit according to my templates, and notched out the main cross guard. Then I inserted the wing castings and secured them in place with super glue and Apoxy Sculpt.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9576815581/" title="DSCN4146 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7449/9576815581_98925ee3b3.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN4146"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9576821673/" title="DSCN4149 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3669/9576821673_c2cfafaa55.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN4149"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9576879543/" title="DSCN4512 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7283/9576879543_e2c4e3d8b9.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN4512"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9579672164/" title="DSCN4593 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7304/9579672164_e84fbc2cca.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN4593"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9579698428/" title="DSCN4651 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2809/9579698428_50762f53ff.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN4651"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9576918259/" title="DSCN4791 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5459/9576918259_9e30f90253.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN4791"></a></div><br>
The cross guard wasn’t finished at that point, however, as I still needed to sculpt the jewel. However, before I did that, I needed to have the grip in place. To make the grip, I glued some scrap wood together (with a central groove in each piece of wood, in a similar manner to the blade) and chucked it up on the lathe. Using my template, it really didn’t take too terrible long to turn the grip. While it was on the lathe, I puttied it up and used the lathe to sand it perfectly smooth.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9576790213/" title="DSCN3979 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3738/9576790213_36f4f0eb94.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN3979"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9576796393/" title="DSCN3982 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3704/9576796393_1a3194d484.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN3982"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9579593090/" title="DSCN3986 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7338/9579593090_28ac7fa549.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN3986"></a></div><br>
The grip wasn’t ready to install, though, as I still had a substantial amount of sculpting work to do on it. In order to get the grip’s weave feature sculpted, I taped out the wrap pattern on the grip (which was no small feat!), marked it with Sharpie, and removed the tape. Then I sculpted the grip weave on using Apoxy Sculpt. On a side note, I discovered that Skyward Sword’s concept artist intended for the green weave to be a grass-like material, and that really intrigued me. I had to add that feature to the sword. So while I was sculpting the pattern, I carved in several grooves along the bands of Apoxy Sculpt to give it somewhat of a grass-like texture. Separately, I added the pommel by using Apoxy Sculpt as well. Are you seeing a trend here? <a href="http://www.avesstudio.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&product_id=28&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1&vmcchk=1&Itemid=1">Apoxy Sculpt is kick ass.</a><br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9576894293/" title="DSCN4640 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7383/9576894293_c2eb701a4f.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN4640"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9579683752/" title="DSCN4641 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3796/9579683752_e95a9999b8.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN4641"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9576921395/" title="DSCN4795 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3725/9576921395_79760dc765.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN4795"></a></div><br>
After what felt like working on the handle for weeks and weeks and weeks (which realistically wasn’t the case), I was able to finally attach it to the rest of the sword. Here’s where that threaded rod comes in. gluing the rod into the blade first, I was able to easily line everything up and glue the grip in place. I ended up notching out the cone section of the grip so that it would fit snugly into place along the bottom side of the cross guard. Doing so made it so there was zero guess work in aligning the grip to the rest of the sword. With the grip in place, I could finally finish off the cross guard by adding the jewel. Again, to attain symmetry, I sculpted one jewel, molded it, and cast two copies.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9600841302/" title="DSCN4818 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5348/9600841302_a4a65e3271.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN4818"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9598041951/" title="DSCN4815 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7393/9598041951_d2cc9d4fbc.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN4815"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9600837060/" title="DSCN4816 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5524/9600837060_133eb073f7.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN4816"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9598061219/" title="DSCN4824 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2856/9598061219_02efa6ef76.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN4824"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9600857114/" title="DSCN4827 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3819/9600857114_cde89d7543.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN4827"></a></div><br>
When the final sculpt was cleaned up, it was ready for molding. It actually had a similar molding process to Pipit’s Sword, wherein I used MDF to help with the mold seam and reduce the amount of clay work I had to do. It was pretty standard two-part mold work. My rubber of choice was my go-to Rebound 25, and it took one entire “gallon kit” and most of a “trial kit” of the stuff to get it molded. Like the Goddess White Sword, I had to cut in several vent sprues to allow the resin to fill undercut areas. And like the other Zelda sword molds, the rubber parts in this mold would get clamped between two sheets of MDF during the casting process. In the last photo below, you'll notice that it's sitting in a trash can. The trash can is there in case there are any leaks or overflows during the casting process, so that the spilled resin is retained in the can and not all over my floor.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/10276336704/" title="DSCN5517 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3676/10276336704_55ccebd675.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN5517"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/10276569343/" title="DSCN5528 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5515/10276569343_586146bc9b.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN5528"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/10276615683/" title="DSCN5532 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7327/10276615683_d273f493f9.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN5532"></a></div><br>
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I wanted to try something I picked up from another prop builder, Matt Munson, since I had a lot of sharp edges I needed to capture. It’s not an uncommon trick, though, I just had never done it before, and with all the little shapes and nooks and crannies on this thing, I didn’t want to take any chances with bubbles. Before casting resin into the mold, I brushed in a coat of talc (in the form of baby powder). The talc works itself into all the hard-to-reach areas, and through capillary action, pulls the resin into those areas. This produces a super crisp casting, reducing bubbles that would normally appear in the castings to nearly zero.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/11277157483/" title="DSCN5594 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5521/11277157483_6bde7474d7.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN5594"></a></div><br>
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I had some trouble casting this thing. I burned through a couple of castings that kept deforming in bizarre ways. Most resins shrink ever so slightly, and that’s normal. However, on larger items such as this, it can really cause adverse effects, especially if there is something impeding the shrinkage. Initially I had the same metal curtain rod cast into these as I did the Goddess White Sword. However, with the amount of resin the blade caused the weak metal to bend while it shrank, which caused the blades to curve. To fix that, I swapped out the cheapy metal curtain rod for a 3/8” steel threaded rod. The threading provides a mechanical connection to the resin, and the stronger steel prevents any flexing that the resin’s shrinkage would normally cause. The trade off, though, is that the steel rod is much heavier than the curtain rods, so the sword has some weight to it. It’s appropriate weight for being a sword, but it’s a little heavier than one would expect out of something that is made of plastic.<br><br>
I also switched to a different resin for this sword. My go-to resin is Smooth Cast 300 for it's ease of use and it's quick curing time. It makes casting small things and slush casting helmets really quick and easy. However, it kicks a little too fast for something like this where I need a lot of working time, so I switched to Smooth Cast 305. It's the same exact resin, except that it has an added chemical to it that slows the curing process down, giving you more working time. The downside to it is that it seems degassing it would be beneficial, as there were quite a few air bubbles throughout that needed to be dealt with.<br><br>
Anyways, after cleaning up the “steel rod” casting, I took to painting it. It wasn’t ever explicitly requested by the customer, but I made an assumption and chose to paint it up like the <a href="http://www.mdtadesign.co.uk/tests/master-sword-evolution.png">in-game version</a> instead of the <a href="http://images3.wikia.nocookie.net/__cb20121110163902/ilovewriting/images/7/71/True_Master_Sword.png">water-colory production artwork</a>. This significantly reduced my painting time, as I was quickly approaching my due date. The blade got some Krylon spray can silver prior to any other paint work. Typically I don’t like using it, but if you let it dry for at least a full day, it doesn’t really retain finger prints. Then, I used my airbrush to apply custom-mixed acrylic paints to the grip. I did several passes over it in slight variations of the color to give it a neat shimmery look in different lighting. Next, I painted the grip weave by hand, and then further accented it with more airbrush work. After the grip was done, I misted some light blue at the base of the blade, fading it out half way up the blade. The jewels were painted in a metallic gold paint for the bulk of the jewels’ surfaces, and then they were coated in gold leaf Rub N Buff. The very slight brush texture from the paint caused the Rub N Buff to buff off in a slightly uneven manner, which gave it this neat, subtle “aged” look to it. To finish everything off, I gave it a couple coats of Spar Urethane clear coat.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/11277247684/" title="DSCN5650 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2848/11277247684_4e1cca6677.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN5650"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/11277320493/" title="DSCN5670 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3729/11277320493_42592273e0.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN5670"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/11277280544/" title="DSCN5671 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2848/11277280544_fc21610cc0.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN5671"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/11277402043/" title="DSCN5677 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2852/11277402043_37386e2045.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN5677"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/11277418704/" title="DSCN5703 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2842/11277418704_d217a84639.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN5703"></a></div><br>
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This truly was a joy to build, and even though I only had the completed sword in my possession for a few days, the payoff was very rewarding.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/11277501534/" title="DSCN5767_edited by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3689/11277501534_6a002c0eb4.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="DSCN5767_edited"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/11277561333/" title="DSCN5781_edited by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3806/11277561333_20c929ec3c.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN5781_edited"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/11277486616/" title="DSCN5810_edited by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7322/11277486616_19062c4e80.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="DSCN5810_edited"></a></div><br>
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Click here to go to the full Flickr photo set:<br><br>
http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/sets/72157635205101916/
David Reimerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00822001040100771573noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4219958125389265546.post-48319542588714888252013-12-08T17:16:00.000-06:002013-12-08T17:16:12.116-06:00Deadmau5 LED Head v1 (non-LED version)I don't know off hand how long my blog entries tend to be, but as usual, this is going to be a long one. Get your reading glasses out, folks.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8603849455/" title="DSCN9671_edited by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8526/8603849455_065287eded.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN9671_edited"></a></div><br>
When I decided to first make a replica of Deadmau5's <a href="http://2storyprops.blogspot.com/2013/01/so-lots-of-you-have-been-asking-about.html">Cheese Head</a>, it was a toss up between making that head and the first LED head. I figured I wasn't ready to build the LED head, so I went for the Cheese Head first. Now, from this point forward, when I talk about the "LED Head," specifically I'm referring to the <i>non-LED</i> version of the first LED head. There were two v1's: the big fancy one with a face full of LEDs that was physically tethered to the stage, and a lighter, non-tethered one without all the LEDS in it. The two were identical except for the lack of LEDS and the lack of the tether. Both had the black cloth ears and face, the EL wire silhouette, the chin-mounted camera, and the metal back with the fold-out fan panel. The one I built is the non-LED version, and there's a reason for that. We'll get to that in a moment.<br><br>
Thanksgiving day of 2012, I proposed to my girlfriend, and shortly thereafter, Wayne and I got to planning my "bachelor party." I put it in quotes because it wasn't your typical bachelor party. We decided to go see Deadmau5 live, and the only time we could do that before the wedding was to attend Ultra Music Festival in Miami Florida. Both of us wanted to make a new Deadmau5 head for the show, so I used it as an opportunity to build this LED head. Now, the reason why I went without all the LEDs is three-fold: For one, I did not have the time or ability to quickly learn how to design and build my own LED matrix screen; two, such an electronics package would have been a heavy thing to have on my neck at any time, let alone in the heat of Miami, FL.; three, I wanted to be able to see the show, so not having a face full of wires was beneficial. That's the reason the real one has a chin-mounted camera wired to in-helmet screen goggles, so technically there's a work-around for that third factor, but still, attaining as much visibility as possible was key.<br><br>
So I ordered my acrylic globe, and took all my notes. My reference material primarily came from the "Live at Earl's Court" Deadmau5 concert video available on iTunes, but I also snagged some behind-the-scenes photos from his Facebook page. There was a lot of planning involved in this, as there aren't really any other Deadmau5 heads like it, so you can't really base it on any other build. Long story short, I taped out all my cut lines on the globe, and prepared to fiberglass the interior of the back half of the globe. The real one is metal, so the back half of the globe would need to be rock-solid in order to provide the necessary structure for the rest of the helmet. <br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8603843995/" title="DSCN9172 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8531/8603843995_4843f3d631.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN9172"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8604945278/" title="DSCN9173 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8101/8604945278_212dda320f.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN9173"></a></div><br>
Prior to cutting out the back hatch, I taped off the newly-fiberglassed interior and fiberglassed over the tape in the rough shape of what would become the hatch's inner lip. The tape prevented both layers of fiberglass from bonding to each other, and it allowed me to draw the lip shape (in Sharpie). The fiberglass resin we use is translucent, so having that drawn line there allowed me to cut the lip to shape easily. Once the lip was cut out, it was glued inside the helmet, and my mounting hardware for the hatch was installed.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8603844387/" title="imagejpeg_2a by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8386/8603844387_5720a1425f.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="imagejpeg_2a"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8604946774/" title="imagejpeg_2b by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8263/8604946774_1bc008294d.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="imagejpeg_2b"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8604941224/" title="DSCN9177 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8395/8604941224_42491cbc5e.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN9177"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8604940288/" title="DSCN9178 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8392/8604940288_a81249a163.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN9178"></a></div><br>
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Once the hatch was attached, I mapped out the holes for all the fans. I think I used the bottom of a small Solo Cup or something for the template, but it was one of those trial and error kinds of things getting the size of the holes just right. I made multiples of the template on some tape, and affixed the templates in place. Keep in mind, I was making notes on the globe itself during the whole build. Don't be afraid to draw on your prop as you're building it.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8603836873/" title="DSCN9179 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8529/8603836873_eef4b0787e.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN9179"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8604935150/" title="DSCN9184 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8387/8604935150_96b49801c6.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN9184"></a></div><br>
Next came a very nerve-wracking step. So most of the other Deadmau5 heads have great ventilation because you just breathe right through the mouth. This one doesn't have a mouth, so I needed to come up with a means to get air close to my face. There are 8 fans in the back that would blow air in, but having some additional means of getting air in was critical (for times when I would turn the fans off - which actually became critical at UMF because of the second-hand smoke). My solution was to drill a series of hole grids in the front half of the globe. I came up with a template on some cardboard, and transferred that template to the globe, then CAREFULLY drilled the holes. Every time I drilled a hole, I was giving the helmet a new place to potentially crack. In all, there are 160 some odd holes in it, and zero cracks. (After the fact, I decided that all future Deadmau5 heads would be done in polycarbonate, which would eliminate the need to fiberglass the interior because it is WAY stronger and would prevent any sort of cracking).<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8604927428/" title="DSCN9194 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8113/8604927428_4aff3a85e4.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN9194"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8603824149/" title="DSCN9195 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8265/8603824149_59b69444be.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN9195"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8603823033/" title="DSCN9196 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8382/8603823033_de53d5b7f5.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN9196"></a></div><br>
At this point I was ready to cut the front half of the globe off, but I needed a way to add a little bit of strength do it. Remember how I taped off the interior to fiberglass the hatch lip? I did the same thing on the interior of the front half at the neck hole. After cutting that little half-moon to shape, I epoxied it in place.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8603820837/" title="DSCN9198 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8247/8603820837_8c0209ff88.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN9198"></a></div><br>
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With all the ventilation holes cut and the fiberglass reinforcement installed, I was ready to add the cloth. Now, this was a particular tricky fabric to source, and the fabric that I have isn't even correct. I haven't been able to identify the real stuff at all, but it's some kind of tight-knit, 4-way stretch shimmery/sequiny fabric. The closest I was able to find was "Jeggings" fabric in a black denim. The "denim" part is critical to the look of it, because when it's stretched, the white inner elastic shows through and kind of looks shiny. Anyways, I stretched some of the front half of the globe and clamped it in place. To affix it in place, I removed one clamp at a time, re-stretched it, and hot glued it in place. The visibility is surprisingly pretty good, albeit you are looking through cloth, so it's fuzzy by default. (The third photo below isn't necessarily representative of the true visibility.)
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8604917956/" title="DSCN9205 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8108/8604917956_5e1cdfa917.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN9205"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8603812431/" title="DSCN9211 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8105/8603812431_4067060b18.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN9211"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8603818497/" title="DSCN9203 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8405/8603818497_2824cf9a8d.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN9203"></a></div><br>
Remember how I said the real LED head is metal? Well, that's definitely an assumption. It sure does look metal, and I currently have no means of making half a globe in metal. So I needed an alternative. My solution was to get some brushed aluminum textured vinyl, and stretch it over the globe. In order to get some little fake "overlaps" to mimic the real head, I first laid out my paneling in thin strips of duct tape. This made it easy to section things, off, but it also provided enough of an "overlapped metal sheet" look. Then, to really drive home the correct look, I scratched up the surface with an old broken Xacto tool handle that I keep on-hand for stuff like this.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8603809639/" title="DSCN9214 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8538/8603809639_bb8b91e004.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN9214"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8603810775/" title="DSCN9212 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8395/8603810775_ba6547d645.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN9212"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8604910566/" title="DSCN9215 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8539/8604910566_54977bf5de.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN9215"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8603804553/" title="DSCN9218 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8104/8603804553_1c63b5367f.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN9218"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8604898952/" title="DSCN9225 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8401/8604898952_d07216814e.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN9225"></a></div><br>
Next, I needed to join the two halves of the globe back together. I cut several rectangles out of some sintra, and heat-formed them to the inner shape of the globe. I didn't want to chance damaging the interior of the front (in case the heat would have some kind of adverse effect on the acrylic, thereby hampering my vision later on), so I used the center of the hatch. Then I glued those in place with industrial hot glue.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8603802997/" title="DSCN9219 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8384/8603802997_1d28b67b26.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN9219"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8603801133/" title="DSCN9220 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8110/8603801133_c291a24f2c.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="DSCN9220"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8604902220/" title="DSCN9221 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8257/8604902220_040c0a9ae8.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="DSCN9221"></a></div><br>
After pausing briefly to work on some of the details on the back (switches, holes, rivets, etc.), I started on the metal frame that would hold the EL wire on. Home Depot doesn't really carry any kind of thin sheet metal, so I purchased a section of aluminum ducting, flatted it out and cut it to shape based on some notes I made on the head. Now that I have finished work on the head, I couldn't really make notes directly on it, so I used masking tape to draw out my metal frame template. This worked well because I could draw it in place on the head, then I could remove the tape and adhere it to the metal and just cut it straight out.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8604897962/" title="DSCN9227 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8398/8604897962_9468091166.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN9227"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8604896254/" title="DSCN9228 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8121/8604896254_209b8c821b.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN9228"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8603789403/" title="DSCN9231 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8386/8603789403_bfc34eca16.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN9231"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8603785053/" title="DSCN9235 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8404/8603785053_8e6586455c.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN9235"></a></div><br>
Continuing on the metal frame, I punched several small holes in it though which I was able to stitch clear fishing wire, which was used to hold the EL wire in place. I did this at only a few points along the metal frame, and fishing was on the underside of the metal frame was tied off and duct taped in place. The reasoning for the duct tape instead of glue here is because the color of the wire (unlit) is inaccurate, and I'd like to swap it out for the correct wire at a later time. So I needed a way to remove it later on without redoing a lot of work.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8603783901/" title="DSCN9236 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8117/8603783901_de0d623836.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN9236"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8603782289/" title="DSCN9237 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8265/8603782289_cdab813b75.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN9237"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8604883778/" title="DSCN9238 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8527/8604883778_d92bdaae10.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN9238"></a></div><br>
At this point, I was able to start on the ears. On the real helmet, the ears are removable for storage/transport, so the EL wire connects to the globe through some 1/4" audio connectors. I couldn't find the exact model, but what I did find was a quick bolt-in solution.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8603779299/" title="DSCN9239 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8247/8603779299_e53999d3f1.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN9239"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8603776987/" title="DSCN9241 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8395/8603776987_46fbaf20b0.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN9241"></a></div><br>
Wrapping up the exterior work on the globe, I laser cut some parts to make a fake camera for the chin. To my knowledge, the real camera's exact make and model are unidentified. And since this is the non-LED version, I didn't need the camera to be real. So some laser cut layers of acrylic glued together attached to a section of clear PVC made for the perfect look.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8604877440/" title="DSCN9243 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8546/8604877440_2631fd3095.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN9243"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8604874360/" title="DSCN9253 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8116/8604874360_f18fcabf05.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN9253"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8603769315/" title="DSCN9258 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8403/8603769315_5cc6944841.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN9258"></a></div><br>
Aside from this whole project not being a typical Deadmau5 head by the nature of it's outward appearance, here's where I really break the fan-build tradition. Most fan made Deadmau5 heads attach the ears with threaded rods bolted to the head. I wanted something a little more accurate to the real deal. I came really close to finding the exact quick-release clips used in the ears, but I couldn't find the correct sizes. With time running out, I made a decision to just design my own ear clip system. It would be molded and cast in resin for repeatability, and it would potentially make for a lighter ear. After several days of developing concept artwork, I used the laser cutter to make my master model for the male end of the ear clip system. After the model was completed, I made a mold of it and produced copies of it in Smooth Cast 300 resin. I didn't need to use the laser cutter on the female end of the clip system, so i just built it out of some sintra. Again, I made a mold of it and cast copies in Smooth Cast 300 resin.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8604933024/" title="DSCN9186 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8382/8604933024_869357b518.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN9186"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8603829477/" title="DSCN9188 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8519/8603829477_a821a77274.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN9188"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8603827263/" title="DSCN9191 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8112/8603827263_c6547d75ba.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN9191"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8603751591/" title="DSCN9373 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8116/8603751591_b6f8d18160.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN9373"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8604848826/" title="DSCN9377 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8388/8604848826_59e2f24f0d.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN9377"></a></div><br>
This system doesn't need to be sandwiched between two layers of foam, unlike the old threaded rod method. Instead, you trace the male end onto the foam, and dremel it out. It sounds like a lot of work, but it really didn't take me much more than 5 minutes per ear. Since wood glue doesn't eat the foam, I used it to glue the ear system in place. This also allowed me to use a more accurate, thinner foam. I found these 1" thick 2' foam squares at Home Depot that were perfect. I ended up getting a little overzealous with the dremel, though, so I needed to thicken it back up with some cardboard. Ooops.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8603844555/" title="imagejpeg_2 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8265/8603844555_076d4ef385.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="imagejpeg_2"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8604870652/" title="DSCN9259 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8523/8604870652_7a560b898c.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN9259"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8603766685/" title="DSCN9260 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8533/8603766685_ae3809794d.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN9260"></a></div><br>
Unfortunately, I don't have any photos of the female end of the ear clip system installed inside the head. But basically it's glued in right behind the little slot for the male end. Oddly enough, I can't get any glue to work between the quick-release clip and the Smooth Cast 300 resin, so as of the writing of this blog entry, the female end of the quick clip just slides into place. However, the female end of the ear clip system keeps everything nice and stable.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8604859832/" title="DSCN9363 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8242/8604859832_06c374de7b.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN9363"></a></div><br>
With all the major construction done on the head, I finished up the ears by sewing up a couple "pillow cases" out of the same cloth I used on the globe, and sewed them in place onto the ears. Then, I mapped out the EL wire and sewed it in place with more clear fishing wire. The stock connectors for the EL wire were removed and replaced with the 1/4" audio connectors, and I sewed some little sleeves for the wire, just like the real head. Aside from new connectors, the addition of a switch into the circuit, and a little extra wiring, the EL wire system is relatively unchanged from the stock configuration.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8604845348/" title="DSCN9380 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8120/8604845348_e46dcf7a9b.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN9380"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8604840030/" title="DSCN9385 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8521/8604840030_00c037403d.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN9385"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8604838578/" title="DSCN9386 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8115/8604838578_c2dfe1c4a9.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN9386"></a></div><br>
Now I can do some simple electrical wiring, and even some fairly complicated stuff with the proper instructions and diagrams, but when it comes to measuring out all the Volts, Amp hours, and stuff like that for custom projects, I'm like a medieval peasant bewildered by the black magic that is early science. So for the fans, I bought the hardware, gave Wayne an Oreo pie from Burger King, and made him wire it up. Easy peasy. The fans are just hot glued in place, and the wires are all reduced down to a single line going to a battery pack and a switch. Wayne also snipped off all the speed controller wires (the yellow ones) since that was unnecessary in this project.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8604837056/" title="DSCN9412 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8536/8604837056_c82cb94ebd.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN9412"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8604834272/" title="DSCN9441 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8252/8604834272_7d81ca09b3.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN9441"></a></div><br>
The final component to this build was the inner head gear. According to my references of the non-LED head, the real one is just a trimmed hard hat. The only way I could mount it was to glue in some bolts and repurpose some holes from the hatch's latch system for longer bolts. I thought it was going to prove unstable, but after about 13 hours of hard wear and tear in the Miami heat, jumping around in a mosh pit of drunks, it worked out just fine.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8604861222/" title="DSCN9362 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8114/8604861222_a77d4ceabb.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN9362"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8604862512/" title="DSCN9361 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8119/8604862512_82b353c198.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN9361"></a></div><br>
And here are some final photos. You can view more glamor shots, as well as more progress photos in our flickr gallery, which is linked at the bottom of this blog post.<br><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8604954376/" title="DSCN9642_edited by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8522/8604954376_def1dd9928.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN9642_edited"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8603856619/" title="DSCN9599_edited by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8247/8603856619_4487088a44.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN9599_edited"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8603848397/" title="DSCN9689_edited by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8392/8603848397_a443b6b6b2.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN9689_edited"></a></div><br>
<div align="center"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8604949860/" title="DSCN9699_edited by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8535/8604949860_7fb7b3dee0.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCN9699_edited"></a></div><br>
Check out all the photos here!<br><br>
http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/sets/72157633129098338/with/8604954376/David Reimerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00822001040100771573noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4219958125389265546.post-13435778491043262782013-10-27T21:48:00.000-05:002013-10-27T21:51:34.972-05:00Apollo A7L Moon Suit Part 1: Dragon*Con 2013 Progress
<p><center>”From now on we’ll live in a world where man has walked on the moon. It’s not a miracle, we just decided to go.”</p>
<p>-Captain James A. Lovell</p>
<p><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/10469899243/" title="9675176769_90c2620e29_o by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2805/10469899243_4f8feb9e00_z.jpg" width="424" height="640" alt="9675176769_90c2620e29_o"></a></p></center>
<p>For those who missed <a href=”http://2storyprops.blogspot.com/2013/07/apollo-a7l-moon-suit-part-0-liquid.html”>part 0, </a> late last year I began working on my very own Apollo moon suit for Dragon*Con. The original project was going to involve a working liquid cooling garment, metal connectors, and a real bubble helmet. By March reality sunk in that the suit would take years, so I decided to focus on making more of a costume than a “functional” replica.</p>
<p>Before I dive into the build summary I want to provide some historical information about the design for those who wish to compare our work to the real thing. Between 1969 and 1972 there were 7 Apollo missions to the lunar surface. Six of them succeeded with landing, the exception being Apollo 13. On the first 4 missions (Apollo 11-14) the astronauts wore an A7L space suit. This suit had a single zipper going down the back and up the crotch with the hose connectors placed symmetrically on the chest. The last three missions (Apollo 15-17) used the A7LB, which is a side entry suit with the connectors moved up on the chest and arranged diagonally. The reason for this is it allowed better mobility particularly around the waist, which was necessary to sit in the lunar rover.</p>
<p><center><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/10469871103/" title="Comparison by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3825/10469871103_b27cfc8e52_z.jpg" width="640" height="461" alt="Comparison"></a>
Lovell’s A7L (left) vs. A7LB</p></center>
<p> As for the red stripes, on Apollo 11 and 12 there were no stripes, thus the commander and lunar module pilot looked exactly the same in photographs. After complaints from the press, NASA decided the Commander’s suit would have red stripes. Had Apollo 13 landed, Jim Lovell would have been the first astronaut to have the commander stripes. Instead that honor went to Alan Shepard on Apollo 14.</p>
<p>And now to the build!</p>
</p>We’ll start with the helmet. For the purpose of this write-up the helmet consist of 3 components; the EVA over helmet (the part covered with fabric), the solar visor (the gold one that moves up and down), and the bubble helmet (aka the fish bowl). For Jim Lovell’s suit there should also be an external solar visor but I did not have time for it this year. I started by determining the size and curve of the solar visor using the refurbished bubble helmet and foam board. I needed it large enough to pivot around the helmet but not grossly too big either.</p>
<p><center>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8654386774/" title="IMG_0476 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8101/8654386774_c98ea72145_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="IMG_0476"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8653285231/" title="IMG_0477 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8121/8653285231_dd93daf5d5_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="IMG_0477"></a></p></center>
<p>Once the solar visor dimensions were finalized I did the same thing for the over helmet. This part had to be large enough so the solar visor could slide into it and cover the pivot point.</p>
<p><center><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8654386720/" title="IMG_0478 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8115/8654386720_a74a202f24_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="IMG_0478"></a></center></p>
<p>With both sets of dimensions finalized I started to form the bucks. The solar visor would be a vacuum formed piece so I made a buck using MDF and pink foam. The foam was then sealed with acrylic paint and smoothed with several layers of bondo. The over helmet on the other hand would be fiberglass so I built up my positive with expanding foam and clay. The finish did not need to be perfect as the entire thing would be covered in fabric. A two part mold was made and the fiberglass shell pulled.</p>
<p><center><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8654385712/" title="IMG_0492 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8101/8654385712_795c83cc3d_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="IMG_0492"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8653284471/" title="IMG_0485 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8120/8653284471_8ac0ecefea_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="IMG_0485"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8737614272/" title="IMG_0517 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7287/8737614272_1e91d8a24e_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="IMG_0517"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8736492771/" title="IMG_0536 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7288/8736492771_e9196bf31d_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="IMG_0536"></a></center></p>
<p>To help me breathe, the bubble helmet was made with a vented back. A 12 VDC fan on the back of the helmet pushes cool air in while the vents let the warm air out. This is why I can breath and the helmet does not fog up.</p>
<p><center><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8886039176/" title="IMG_0587 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3824/8886039176_1b0b4d9ba0_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="IMG_0587"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8886038954/" title="IMG_0591 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8266/8886038954_445250cc35_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="IMG_0591"></a></center></p>
<p>Using my experience from making mau5 heads, I pinned fabric around the helmet to determine the seams. The fabric used throughout the suit is white rip-stop nylon with a layer of white batting behind it to prevent discoloration from the material underneath. The edges are attached to the helmet with cold temp hot glue.</p>
<p><center><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8885415519/" title="IMG_0579 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7285/8885415519_c79b4ed879_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="IMG_0579"></a></center></p>
<p> The jumpsuit was by far the hardest part to make look right as it not only needed to fit me but needed to be padded to mimic the bulk of the real thing. I experimented with several ideas before finally settling on a padded under suit and separate over suit. The padding was made using several layers of high loft batting sandwiched between two layers of blue lining fabric. The pattern was a 2XL Rothco I cut up and modified to account for a thinner waist. Rivets were added to keep the batting from shifting down overtime.</p>
<p><center><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9146976193/" title="IMG_0626 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3803/9146976193_6be593b016_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="IMG_0626"></a></center></p>
<p>The same jumpsuit was then used for the over garment. Another local costumer, Pam, was kind enough to pin a collar template in place in the muslin stage. While the real A7L has the zipper in the back, I left mine in the front as it allows easier access when I’m putting it on myself. Because of this, the neck ring must come off to get in and out of the suit, so it attaches with Velcro .</p>
<p><center><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8977446688/" title="america by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3726/8977446688_35c3a37f5c_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="america"></a></center></p>
<p>Once I had an over garment I was happy with I added details including pockets, snaps, Velcro, and patches. Everything that is not on the chest had to be hand stitched to the suit. The patches were made using PhotoFabric which you can find at your local fabric store. Unlike iron-on templates, this is fabric that you can print directly on.</p>
<p><center><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9253633902/" title="IMG_0672 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3818/9253633902_06f27ae222_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="IMG_0672"></a></center></p>
<p>The chest connectors were sculpted from MDF, molded, and then cast with SmoothOn 300 with an acrylic tube inside. The finish is anodized paint from O’ Reilly’s. Each connector bolts to the suit with a backing plate that contains a rare-earth magnet. The hoses then slide into the tube and are secured in place via magnetic force. The hoses themselves are made of vinyl tubing covered in fabric.</p>
<p><center><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8886039882/" title="IMG_0566 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7372/8886039882_ae1e456fff_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="IMG_0566"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8885415567/" title="IMG_0578 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3671/8885415567_96aaf6e9ce_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="IMG_0578"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9253645296/" title="IMG_0689 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2851/9253645296_c584e279ec_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="IMG_0689"></a></center></p>
<p>The Personal Life Support System (PLSS) attaches to the moon suit in a very unusual way. There are no shoulder straps like a traditional backpack. Instead, two straps come over the shoulder and attach to an anchor on the front of the suit while a thin waist strap keeps the bottom of the pack stable. It is very hard to see this because the helmet and hoses hide these straps, but you can see the harness system in this image of Alan Shepard’s suit:</p>
<p><center><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/10526166766/" title="Alan_Sheppard_Apollo_spacesuit by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5520/10526166766_3ff95f5a27_z.jpg" width="426" height="640" alt="Alan_Sheppard_Apollo_spacesuit"></a></center></p>
<p>Because I could not put the weight on my waist, I needed to keep the pack as light as possible. Since it is not load bearding I built the pack out of cardboard and foam board. The structure was then covered in chrome duct tape to ensure an even color, the covered with a layer of batting and rip stop nylon. It attached to the suit by clipping onto two anchors bolted to the cold vest that stick out of the over garment.</p>
<p><center><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9149204904/" title="IMG_0618 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5334/9149204904_6edec1958e_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="IMG_0618"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9250851869/" title="IMG_0657 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7385/9250851869_eb32806be6_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="IMG_0657"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9253633736/" title="IMG_0680 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3758/9253633736_16c0bf1b23_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="IMG_0680"></a></center></p>
<p>The control box on the front was made the same way, except it is made of plywood as it may support the weight of a camera in the future.</p>
<p><center><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9253633878/" title="IMG_0673 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5510/9253633878_fa0981aa62_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="IMG_0673"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9250851701/" title="IMG_0677 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2870/9250851701_b1f8050aff_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="IMG_0677"></a></center></p>
<p> The gloves started off as grey snowboarders’ gloves. I added a new white cuff and cut the outer layer of the fingertips open and folded them back. To make the rubber fingertips, I made a positive using a wooden hemisphere and length of PVC pipe, then made 10 molds (2 blocks of 5). After applying two layers of mold release, I brushed in several layers of mold max stroke mixed with blue and black dye. Once I was happy with the thickness the finger tips were separated from the mold and glued to the glove’s with silicon glue.</p>
<p><center><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9411355689/" title="IMG_0702 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5492/9411355689_94a5afe8d2_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="IMG_0702"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9414117630/" title="IMG_0715 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2867/9414117630_40510aaa06_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="IMG_0715"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9411355053/" title="IMG_0731 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5443/9411355053_d3b39542a6_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="IMG_0731"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9414117296/" title="IMG_0732 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3758/9414117296_77437b153b_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="IMG_0732"></a></p></center>
<p>The boots are regular boots built up with EVA foam to acquire the proper shape. The foam is glued together with cold temp hot glue while the boot is attached with Goop. </p>
<p><center><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9414117748/" title="IMG_0711 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5530/9414117748_584b2c4b46_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="IMG_0711"></a></center></p>
<p> The soles were made by covering the eva with wax paper followed by several layers of fiberglass. The glass was then removed and served as a base to sculpt the sole design with bondo and plastic. Once happy with the design, the soles were molded in mold max stroke. Like the gloves, several layers of rubber were then painted into the mold to create the rubber sole for the boot. The boots were then covered with nylon and ironing board fabric. I’ll mention here that after three outings at dragon con I still have no wear damage to the soles of the boots, so they are holding up remarkably well.</p>
<p><center><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9414117748/" title="IMG_0711 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5530/9414117748_584b2c4b46_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="IMG_0711"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9414117734/" title="IMG_0714 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7430/9414117734_dce9e47253_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="IMG_0714"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9411355093/" title="IMG_0729 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7449/9411355093_d870e9b135_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="IMG_0729"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9411354823/" title="IMG_0743 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3677/9411354823_d642cd0e54_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="IMG_0743"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9491927788/" title="IMG_0748 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2850/9491927788_cf2d2546a9_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="IMG_0748"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9489132731/" title="IMG_0753 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7322/9489132731_66e83e798c_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="IMG_0753"></a></center></p>
<p> The base of the snoopy cap was made by a friend, then I added EVA foam earmuffs and stiff wire covered by automotive tubing for the microphones.</p>
<p><center><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9553027294/" title="IMG_0762 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5458/9553027294_a6a47d4973_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="IMG_0762"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9553027234/" title="IMG_0768 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7374/9553027234_c23b48b705_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="IMG_0768"></a></p></center>
<p>For the masquerade I wanted to have a flag. The real ones are 3 x 5 feet, but I decided to go with a more manageable 2 x3 foot flag. A rod was sewn into the top of the flag to keep it erect. The flag pole is itself is a microphone stand. I added a longer center rod and covered it with gold duct tape to give it a Mylar look.</p>
<p><center><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9550236749/" title="IMG_0771 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3797/9550236749_58ab80bfd3_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="IMG_0771"></a></center></p>
<p>Finally, Dave used his new airbrush and weathered the suit using acrylic paints mixed with alcohol to provide a fine mist of moon dust to the entire suit.</p>
<p><center><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9500066896/" title="DSCN4738 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5486/9500066896_5576afb782_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="DSCN4738"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9500066580/" title="DSCN4741 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3817/9500066580_e24f4e16f4_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="DSCN4741"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9497270141/" title="DSCN4699 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3830/9497270141_b01e73af33_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="DSCN4699"></a></center></p>
<p>During Dragon*Con, I got a lot of comments about how hot the suit must be. While the suit does get warm (I do sweat in it) the fans and the cooling packs do their job and keep me from overheating even when walking. After 4 hours in the suit it isn’t the heat that bothers me, it’s the angle my head sits in the helmet due to the location of the neck ring, which prevents me from looking up. The reason I am calling this post part 1 is that I am far from done working on this project. Over the next year I intend to make the suit more comfortable with a more powerful fan and better helmet placement, as well as add some more details including the external sunshade, arm checklist, and chest mounted camera. By D*Con 2014 the suit will hopefully be near perfect.</p>
<p>This has been a very rewarding build for me as it combines my two passions in life, space travel and cosplay, and fulfilled a lifelong dream to wear a spacesuit. I’m planning to take it to as many cons as a can this year, and may even have a new space related project for Dragon*Con 2014.</p>
<p>Thanks for reading!</p>
<p><center> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/10078717263/" title="1231508_557821384254872_2131939260_n by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7352/10078717263_6496d206a2_z.jpg" width="640" height="360" alt="1231508_557821384254872_2131939260_n"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/10078578204/" title="1292214_341663012634836_189251677_o by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3744/10078578204_94ce5e4d83_z.jpg" width="640" height="421" alt="1292214_341663012634836_189251677_o"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/10078578324/" title="best-costumes-dragon-con-2013-9 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7329/10078578324_3292afff2b_z.jpg" width="431" height="640" alt="best-costumes-dragon-con-2013-9"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/10078578484/" title="BTIe23OIQAAtBQU by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5473/10078578484_2c0474dc01_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="BTIe23OIQAAtBQU"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/10527790846/" title="IMG_8483 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2832/10527790846_9bf486545d_z.jpg" width="640" height="494" alt="IMG_8483"></a></center></p>
<p><a href=”http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/sets/72157632244075100/with/9497270141/”>More development pictures here!</a></p>
<p><a href=”http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/sets/72157635374403426/”>Pics from first outing at DragonCon 2013!</a></p>
Waynehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00037588568914291925noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4219958125389265546.post-48853620881999186932013-09-13T21:46:00.000-05:002013-09-13T21:46:42.820-05:00Eleventh Doctor (Doctor Who Series 7.2)<p><center><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9666829303/" title="IMG_0780 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3725/9666829303_b034b8767f_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="IMG_0780"></a></p></center>
<p>Earlier this year, our friend Dan, better known to the Dragon*Con crowd as steam punk professor X, asked if Dalek Braun could be the flower girl in his wedding. Obviously I said yes, but I needed to figure out what to wear myself to the wedding. When I started building Braun, I originally intended to dress up as the 9th doctor as he’s my favorite, but I found the coat didn’t look right when I am holding a controller. Additionally I didn’t really want to do 10 or 11 because so many people have done them before and I like to be unique. After some research I found the 11th doctor was going to wear a new outfit with a purple frock coat in the second half of season 7. Since the frock coat fit well with the Victorian theme of the wedding I decided to go with that outfit.</p>
<p><center><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8188989973/" title="080612_wallpaper_4x3 crop by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8480/8188989973_2e45df66a0_z.jpg" width="640" height="633" alt="080612_wallpaper_4x3 crop"></a></p></center>
<p>Now I’m going to put a disclaimer here that I originally had no intention to make a write up about this costume as it’s not a prop and simply made from a pattern and found materials. Therefore, pictures are very limited. However, after wearing it to several cons, I’ve received a lot of questions from people about the fabric, shoes, and pattern, so I am putting this out to help anyone looking to make this particular doctor outfit.</p>
<p>First, the jacket. I started off by going to the local Jo Ann and flipping through their pattern catalogs. Eventually I found Simplicity pattern 2895, which has patterns for the frock coat and other western costume pieces. The coat is made per pattern, the only modification I made was leaving the buttons off.</p>
<p><center><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8188989513/" title="IMG_0234 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8487/8188989513_883f23ef27_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="IMG_0234"></a></p></center>
<p>Finding the fabric was a little harder. From the images I had at the time the coat appears to be made of a plum wool fabric with a distinctive weave. The fabric I went with was listed as “Wool Suiting Burgundy/Grey, UP-460” from <a href=”fabric.com/”>fabric.com</a>. Unfortunately, they no longer appear to carry it. The liner is purple suit liner and the collar is purple velvet, both from Jo-Ann.</p>
<p><center><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8190070112/" title="IMG_0240 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8339/8190070112_0744fa5b40_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="IMG_0240"></a></p>
<p>Close up of the fabric while attaching the sleeve</p>
<p><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8188989191/" title="IMG_0241 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8345/8188989191_1357d4efd4_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="IMG_0241"></a></p>
<p>The Liner</p>
<p><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8190069954/" title="IMG_0248 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8479/8190069954_07179e635f_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="IMG_0248"></a></p>
<p>Coat before seams sewn shut</p></center>
<p> At one point I attempted to make my own grey vest for the costume. For this I used Simplicity pattern 7030 and fabric from Jo Ann. The result was okay but I did not like how the back came out and didn’t know how to tailor it. Instead, I wear a 517 Grey wool men’s vest from <a href=”http://www.sixstaruniforms.com/Merchant/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=UV&Product_Code=517-GREY-WOOL-MEN-VEST/”>here.</a></p>
<p><center><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/8190069338/" title="IMG_0269 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8478/8190069338_77b0f2c69e_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="IMG_0269"></a></p>
<p>Original vest I made</p></center>
<p> I could not find a brown bow tie I liked, so I ended up making my own. Using brown fabric I made a clip on bow tie using the pattern that came with the vest</p>
<p><center><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9736758225/" title="IMG_0270 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7378/9736758225_943a952028_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="IMG_0270"></a></p></center>
<p> Shirt and pants were found items from Sears. The shirt is a Covington Fitted blue stripped dress shirt and the pants are Levis 514 jeans.</p>
<p><center><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9736750403/" title="IMG_0823 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7389/9736750403_734e4868b1_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="IMG_0823"></a></p></center>
<p> Finally, my boots were purchased from Amazon <a href=”http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00796Y4LO/ref=pe_175190_21431760_3p_M3T1_ST1_dp_1/”>here</a> . They are listed as Men’s Black Polar Fox boots. At the time I purchased them I had no good references of the Doctor’s feet. Today I am fairly certain they are suppose to be brown</p>
<p><center><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9736750599/" title="IMG_0822 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7422/9736750599_818c88152b_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="IMG_0822"></a></p></center>
<p> I really enjoy this costume. I think it goes well with the Dalek and is a nice costume to wear for walking around or going to the dealer’s room where our usual bulky costumes won’t fit. Occasionally for Doctor Who themed parties I will throw on my grey mau5 head with this costume. I’ve received several compliments on how the head matches the costume (I guess the grays go together?) but the head was made for David’s bachelor party and I usually wear it because it is the most accurate and comfortable mau5 head I have made. There will be a How2 for fabric heads sometime in the near future which includes the changes since our first fabric mau5.</p>
<p><center><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9666828789/" title="IMG_0793 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7405/9666828789_e48799f8ef_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="IMG_0793"></a></p></center>
<p>Now that we have this write up out of the way, time to start the long blog entry for Jim Lovell’s moon suit!</p>
<p><center>More pics <a href=”http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/sets/72157632022643566/”> here!</a></p>
<p><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9736750611/" title="i-gSdRDth-XL by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7282/9736750611_b0b98cec27_z.jpg" width="640" height="427" alt="i-gSdRDth-XL"></a></p>
<p><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9736750649/" title="965874_4997242961871_335396827_o by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7455/9736750649_c6dd48d46a_z.jpg" width="640" height="427" alt="965874_4997242961871_335396827_o"></a></p>
<p><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9736750561/" title="IMG_0600 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7354/9736750561_e875f925df_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="IMG_0600"></a></p>
Waynehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00037588568914291925noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4219958125389265546.post-39400834737624501032013-09-09T21:45:00.000-05:002013-09-09T21:50:31.162-05:00Dragon*Con 2013<p>Traditionally, Dragon*Con has always involved myself (Wayne), David, and his girlfriend Jecca going down to Atlanta for the con. However, this year had some higher priorities as David and Jecca tied the knot back in June and recently purchased their first home. With all this going on, they decided to take this year off; hence this year’s write up will only be from my point of view. Don’t worry though, we all have purchased our badges for 2014 and will be back in full force next year!</p>
<p>This year seemed to go well with the new project we unveiled this year, Apollo 13 Commander Jim Lovell, as this year’s con involved many technical difficulties and triumphs. Things started off this year with the debut of our Jim Lovell Moon suit on Thursday night. (Write up will be up some time in the next week). It was a BIG hit, and we proved that I can wear the suit for several hours at a time (more on comfort in the write up). One very funny story from the night I have to share happened when a woman stopped me and mentioned her friend saw me walk by and would like to know if I could walk back to let him get a picture as he was in a wheel chair. It turns out her friend was Sylvester McCoy! That’s right; the 7th doctor stopped me to get a picture. After 3 hours of pictures, I called it a night and got ready for a full day of Doctor Who on Friday.</p>
<p><center><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9669889688/" title="1235490_10202008375358722_828289475_n by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5321/9669889688_699051f30c_z.jpg" width="477" height="640" alt="1235490_10202008375358722_828289475_n"></a></p></center>
<p> Since my moon suit is based on the Apollo 13 mission, I had this pestering fear that I was going to get it to the convention and for some reason not be able to bring it in. Luckily that didn’t happen with the moon suit, but it DID happen with the Dalek. I had the Dalek out of the van and half way up the sidewalk when I noticed he was leaning to one side. I discovered that his left tire was shot, and after several hours trying to make repairs including finding an emergency air pump, I threw in the towel and Braun spent the entire convention in the van. </p>
<p>With the dalek down for the count, I hit the con in my 11th doctor outfit. The costume is something I sewed together rather quickly for a wedding, but I was surprised to receive a lot of questions about the fabric and complements on the outfit, so I’ll be putting a write up for it soon. Later in the evening I donned the grey mau5 head I made for Dave’s bachelor party and went to the Whovian Ball. I wore this same combination at another con earlier this year and it seems like Doctor Deadmau5 is starting to become a recognizable costume on its own. The party was a blast and I am looking forward to attending again in 2014.</p>
<p><center><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9670061360/" title="IMG_0782 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3788/9670061360_e608c80e9c_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="IMG_0782"></a></p></center>
<p> Saturday started off with the parade where I marched with the Ghostbusters and then another round of pictures with the moon suit. Meanwhile, Amanda donned her Marceline costume and took the axe bass we built earlier this year out for a spin. She eventually had it signed by the voice actors for Marceline and Jake!</p>
<p><center><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9711907549/" title="DragonCon 2013 09 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3812/9711907549_c4e5d56d89_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="DragonCon 2013 09"></a></p></center>
<p>I also want to add that one of my co-workers, David Hewitt, cosplayed for the first time this year! I lent him my Anakin/Vader costume so he could live his fantasy of being a Jedi. Dave is the bassist and singer for a nerd-core band called <a href=”https://www.facebook.com/pages/Foot-Pound-Force/163528868620”> Foot Pound Force</a>. They performed at the Filk track this year but I was unable to attend. Maybe next year!</p>
<p><center><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9711908013/" title="1209393_10153196432705224_1658264872_n by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2835/9711908013_f6ab1c591a_z.jpg" width="640" height="640" alt="1209393_10153196432705224_1658264872_n"></a></p></center>
<p>Later in the evening we headed to the aquarium to get some shots of my friend Amanda and her little sister costume. You may recognize the Adam syringe as the one we built for the Sloss Furnace shoot back in 2011. Originally we planned to bring Subject Delta for pictures as well, but we ran out of room in the vehicles and he had to stay behind.</p>
<p><center><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9715140834/" title="DragonCon 2013 14 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7411/9715140834_b115910783_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="DragonCon 2013 14"></a></p></center>
<p> Sunday was game day as I entered the masquerade with my moon suit. I based my skit on the “Dark Side of the Moon” scene in the movie where Jim Lovell imagines walking on the moon. (I cry every time I see it). I was really nervous about the reaction I would get since my skit was dramatic rather than humorous, but luckily the crowd went wild! While I did not win best in show, I took home an award for best historical recreation, and received a lot of compliments. I was really moved when a few people said they teared up during the presentation. I have to give a big thank you to Amanda for being my spotter during the completion, even going as far as dressing up like a mission control engineer.</p>
<p><center><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9669889578/" title="DDAV4911 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5550/9669889578_8542c50a1c_z.jpg" width="427" height="640" alt="DDAV4911"></a></p></center>
<p> This was my third Dragon*Con contest. I have never been able to find any footage of Subject Delta or the Dalek on stage. However, the entire 2013 masquerade is up on you tube. My skit starts at 0:43:48</p>
<p><center><iframe width="420" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/-E6cmVWFGdg" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></center></p>
<p>And that about wraps up this year. As I mentioned before 2StoryProps will be back in full force next year. Our room is booked, our badges are purchased, and David is already hard at work on three new costumes. I won’t be building another “8 month” costume this year. Instead I’ll be working on a new vacuum former and continuing to upgrade the moon suit in between other cons and smaller projects. Stay tuned for write ups on our 11th doctor, Jim Lovell, the LED mau5 head, and more!</p>
<p><center><a href=”http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/sets/72157635374403426/”>Dragon*Con 2013 Album here!</a></center></p>
<p>BTW, they are really getting carried away with security now!</p>
<p><center><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/2storyprops/9670059522/" title="IMG_0816 by 2StoryProps, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3685/9670059522_ddcb48e62c_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="IMG_0816"></a></p></center>
Waynehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00037588568914291925noreply@blogger.com0